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GARDENERS' CHRONICLE 



frosted green with brilliant colors delicately lined in char- 

 acter with the whole bloom, form perfect counterparts. 



For color in masses I should choose from a list con- 

 taining Florcntina alba. Ingeborg, Mrs. Horace Darwin, 

 and Fairy; for white or pearl — Mrs. G. Reuthe. Glori de 

 Hillegoni. Pallida Daliiiatica. Juniata, and Pare de 

 Neuitly in increasing depth from white to violet ; Flav- 

 ascens and Aiirea, yellow selfs; Mrs. Alan Gray, Her 

 Majesty, and Wyomissing for delicate pinks; Caprice for 

 claret, and Loreley, Mithras, or Princess Victoria Luise, 

 and the Blue and white Rhein Nixe for bicolors. 



For the garden beds I will tell you what I consider 

 superfine, but I want you to remember that there are hun- 

 dreds of good ones, much less expensive ones in fact, 

 but as we" become more critical our appreciation of the 

 following novelties grows; Ma Mie, Parisiana. Milky 

 Way, Damozel, Cygnet, Mme. Chobaut, Delight ; White 



Knight, Myth Avalon, Mile. Schwartz, Queen Caterina, 

 Balboa, Halo, Neptune, Mme. Cheri, Moa, Opera, De 

 Guesclin, B. Y. I^Iorrison, Prince Lohengrin, Reverie, 

 Dominion. Tyrian, Wild Rose, Crusader, Rose Madder, 

 I\Ime. de Gaudichau, Shekinah, Prospero, Asia, and Am- 

 bassadeur. All these are of the best, among their varied 

 colors each should be able to select his or her ideal. 



Somehow we never think of the iris as a florist's flower 

 and yet last year some of the finest window displays in 

 San Francisco were of irises, bearded irises. My corre- 

 spondent writes that the light tones were in fine demand 

 and that, if cut in bud and delivered by hand the results 

 were extremely good. Let us hope that in time the iris 

 will become as familiar to the city dweller as it now is 

 to all who have a bit of garden. Given plenty of sun 

 and good drainage they will thrive for the most careless 

 of growers. Their beauty is within the reach of all. 



Cultural Suggestions for the Gladiolus 



A. E. KUNDERD 



WHILE the Gladiolus gives satisfaction with or- 

 dinary care and culture in average soils, the 

 super'ior blooms which are produced by special 

 attention more than justify the extra care. 



If possible, each season a new location, or a new 

 soil at least, should be used so that bulbs are not 

 planted more than every third year in the same soil. 

 As far better results are obtained from rich soil, it is 

 advisable to spade in a good covering of manure late 

 in the Fall preceding the plantings, and in Spring to 

 spade deep and to pulverize thoroughly as soon as the 

 soil is in proper condition. 



To have a long blooming season one should plant 

 at intervals of about two weeks from the time when 

 the garden is started until the middle or latter part of 

 June. Bulbs can be planted four inches deep and over 

 in mellow soils, and from four to eight inches apart 

 in the row; deep planting prevents, to some degree, 

 the plants from falling over in their blooming period. 

 The blooms will have greater resistance against the 

 sun and more lasting cjualities if the soil in the beds 

 are frequenth" and thoroughly watered at evening. 

 Do not allow a soil crust to form in rows among the 

 plants, but cultivate well, especially early in the fore- 

 noon following a watering the previous evening. 

 When the blooming spikes begin to appear, cultiva- 

 tion should only be about two inches deep. Once 

 everv week or ten days liquid fertilizer or prepared 

 sheep manure can he a])])lied to the soil near the rows, 

 but one must be careful in not making the application 

 too strong. 



To intensify deep shades, apply Scotch soot when 

 the plants are about half grown ; and it is said that 

 the delicate shades can be clarified by applying weak 

 lime water just before the blooms begin to open. 

 Nitrate of soda, about a tablespoonful to two gallons 

 of water for each dozen plants, is very beneficial and 

 may be applied to the soil once every week or ten 

 days after the buds show color. If one prefers the 

 pulverized nitrate of soda, this may be sprinkled over 

 the soil, raked in and watered. 



Slender stakes of wood or bamboo, painted light 

 green to make them less conspicuous, serve as fine 

 supports to the spikes during their blooming season. 

 Where horizontal lines are used, fasten them to the 

 end posts firmh^ set and stretch the wires tightly. A 



few- more stakes should also be placed at intervals 

 along the lines. Instead of using cord to tie the spikes 

 to the supports, tie them carefully with strips of cloth. 



When the first flowers open, one should cut the 

 spikes, and allow them to bloom in the house in order 

 to secure the best results. Every morning the stems 

 should be cut a little with a long slope and not squarely 

 rtcross ; rinsed and given fresh water, and the wilted 

 blossoms removed. The blooms are refreshed and 

 improved by being placed in a cool cellar during the 

 night. 



If good bulbs are desired for the following year, 

 four to five strong leaves should be left on the plants 

 when cutting the spikes. 



In the Fall, dig the bulbs before the plants are too 

 ripe, and cut off the tops. Dry well in the air and sun- 

 shine, cure thoroughly indoors for a few weeks, then 

 store in a cool, dry cellar. A covering of sand while 

 in storage (after bulbs are well cured) is a protection 

 against frost or dampness, which tends to develop 

 disease. Keep as near 40 degrees as possible. 



Should bulbs become affected with disease or scab, 

 they ma}' be benefited by one of the three following 

 remedies; Soak bulbs in a bichloride of mercury (cor- 

 rosive sublimate) solution of fifteen grains to each gallon 

 of water for twenty minutes. Or; Use two ounces of 

 corrosive sublimate dissolved in fifteen gallons of 

 water and soak for two hours (for smaller amounts 

 in proportion). Or ; Use one ounce of 40 per cent for- 

 maldehyde to each four gallons of water and immerse 

 bulbs for twenty minutes to one hour. I have left 

 l)ulbs immersed for longer periods in even stronger 

 solutions, but care must be exercised not to make the 

 treatment too severe for fear of injury. Sometimes 

 it is best to remove the peel before bulbs are treated. 

 These treatments are generally employed just before 

 planting. 



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