156 



GAItDENERS' CHROmCLE 



The Greenhouse, Month to Month 



GEORGE F. STEWART 



TllK last half of May and the first part of June is in 

 all probability about as trying a time for the green- 

 house man as any part of the year. At this season, 

 the weather is quite changeable, especially along the New 

 England coast. The east winds are proverbial in the 

 region mentioned and one has to be watchful to avoid 

 draughts. The greenhouses may not have an ideal loca- 

 tion and ventilation may not be all that one desires to 

 give the proper amount of air without being draughty. 

 My opinion is that the last word has not been said, by 

 greenhouse architects, about the proper mode of ventila- 

 tion, for these structures in a variable climate such as 

 the above. A greenhouse man who in early life has 

 developed a gift for careful watering and ventilating, is 

 a greater prize than an expert on composts, and when 

 saying this, I do not belittle a knowledge of soils. 1 

 know that with many it takes years of experience to 

 know at a glance when a plant needs water, or when step- 

 ping in at the door of a given compartment to know if 

 the" temperature is right; so let the older men have 

 patience with youth if the love of plants is there. 



Cool house hard wood plants that were potted after 

 flowering last month will now have a good grip on the 

 new compost, and may be pruned into shape for another 

 year. Cut the shoots near the top of the plants well 

 back. The growth on the sides and lower down will not 

 be so strong, and only the strongest will need shortening. 

 Later on these plants will need looking over and some of 

 the stronger breaks should be pinched again before they 

 are allowed to get too long. 



The camellias are growing freely except perhaps some 

 of the very late flowering varieties. A sprinkling of Clay's 

 fertilizer, soot, and weak cow manure water we have 

 found beneficial for them. Applications once a week 

 alternately are enough, being sure that they are watered 

 with clean water two or three times between doses. This 

 may be kept up until the flower buds begin to swell. In- 

 sects such as scale and mealy bug are often found on 

 camellias, but may never be seen if weekly syringings 

 with some standard insecticide such as Aphine is given. 

 This also applies to acacias and other hard wood plants 

 that are attacked by any of these pests. 



Do not forget to' have batches of S'tcvia started for Fall 

 use. Cuttings root readily and we find it best to grow 

 them along in pots. The tall form is known as 5". serrata. 

 having a dwarf form, var. nana. Pjotanists, however, tell 

 us that the proper name is Piqueria trinerzia. T have 

 always found it best to grow both the tall and dwarf forms 

 as they both have a place in decorative work. 



Calceolarias intended for exhibition in the early i)arl 

 of May should now be staked out. Keep them as cool as 

 possible and shaded from strong sunshine, liy jiinching. 

 the Stewart a type may be had as late as July. We allow 

 about seven weeks from date of pinching until the time 

 they are wanted to flower, at this season of the year. 



We have Boronia and Pimclia flowering just now. .\ny 

 that need a shift after flowering may be potted in a com- 

 post as advi.sed last month for acacias and Eriostnnon. 

 After they grip the new soil, cut them back about half 

 way between the flower and the place they were cut back 

 the preceding year. Pimelias are handsfmie ])lants and 

 should be more grown. They may be flowered in small 



pots or grown on into larger specimens which will be 

 admired by every plant lover. Syringe them well every 

 few days, as red spider has a great liking for them. Do 

 not forget to fumigate about every nine or ten days in 

 the cool house. 



In the tropical house, any Anthuriums, such as an- 

 drccanum. that have been mossed with sphagnum, because 

 they were getting too leggy, will now have rooted well into 

 it and may be cut over and potted into suitable recep- 

 tacles. The old stump will break and furnish more plants 

 if desired later on. 



Croton, or to be more modern, Codicciim, cuttings that 

 were rooted earlier in the year, should soon be ready for 

 six-inch pots which will be a large enough size for the 

 first year. I believe that they go through the short days 

 better if they are well pot bound by Fall. Keep them well 

 up to the glass and have a light shade over them until 

 the end of September. A good fibrous loam with some 

 sand and charcoal added to keep sweet and porous, is a 

 fine potting medium. Some sheep manure and bone meal 

 may also be added. Watch carefully for bug scale and 

 red spider. 



Fancy leaved caladiums are very useful plants to fill 

 up any room that may be vacant during the Summer. 

 Three tubers to an eight-inch pot can be grown into a 

 nice plant. Pot in a fairly rich loam with a moderate 

 quality of sand added. Soft coal soot will also help to 

 bring out the right coloring. A bench that can be lightly 

 shaded is what they require as regards light. Avoid 

 bottom air. 



Ixoras are pleasing Summer flowering plants and if 

 grown in good loam and not over potted, will flower 

 freely. A plant or two of MedhiiUa will also always 

 attract attention when in flower. The varieties amabilis 

 and inagnifica siipcrba are very striking. 



Among twining tropical shrubs that flower freely are 

 Allamanclas : and Clerodendrons, which can be had in 

 flower from the last of March until October by ripening 

 the wood by drying oiT after a good growth is m:iile. 

 Dipladenias begin flowering in June and will last until 

 Christmas. Though classed as tropical plants, these 

 twining shrubs will grow better and give more flower in 

 a lighter and more airy house than the majority of stove 

 plants. Spray all these plants when not in flower on all 

 liright days with clean water, but unless there is a good 

 deal of heal in the ])ipes during the night. T believe it is 

 more advisable to have the foliage dry over night. 



Dcudrobinni nob'dc, D. phahcnopsis, and others will 

 now be .showing their young growths, and great care in 

 watering must be taken to avoid damiiing off of the young 

 shoots. Dipping in a tank of water, keeping the water 

 away from where the young growths are. I find the safest 

 method at this stage, and until the roots are seen to be 

 developing from the young shoot when the hose may 

 again lie used, and syringing practiced in the early part 

 of bright days. Oncidiinns also need to be watched for 

 the same trouble with their young growths. Wliat are 

 known as intermediate house orchids should nol receive 

 abundance of air on all warm days, and frnm now on a 

 little over night, according to the weather. When the 

 thermometer goes above 70 degrees out doors, as it will 

 now nftrti (1(1. I liax'e never observed that plenty of fresh 



