158 



GARDENERS' CHRONICLE 



Departments of Foreign Exchange and Book Reviews 



ANNUALS IN GARDEN DECORATION 



The Treatment and Conditions Suitable for the Different Kinds 



'T'O the older enthusiast in gardening it has long been eoninion 

 knowledge that in annuals we have long harbored angels un- 

 awares, for what we do in the greenhouse, as a matter ot course. 

 with a tew pots of Clarkia, Godctiu, Sclii::anthiis. I'iscaria and 

 Sweet Peas can be as readily reproduced in the open garden on a 

 larger scale, the main difficulty being to convince ourselves that 

 the thing is worth doing. Let us, however, concede that the 

 methodical and conscientious care we expend yearly in raising 

 China Asters. Antirrhinums and Stocks can be extended to cover 

 the whole family of annuals, then the result '.vill be an enormous 

 gain to the garden both esthetically and practically, and for our- 

 selves an addition to our plant knowledge that w'ill agreeably sur- 

 prise us in the breadth of outlook that it entails. 



In the decorative scheme of the garden the greatest success 

 follows when distinctive positions are chosen and always with due 

 regard to the plants' requiretnents. Gourds arc important fast- 

 growing annuals for clothing trellis-work and lightly constructed 

 pergolas, and require rich, light soil in a sunny position. Sweet 

 Peas are ubiquitous, but are best displayed in clumps, using bushy 

 sticks or wire supports for them to cling to. Ipoinan iinpcriulis, 

 also a climber, will succeed in ordinary garden soil, while Tra- 

 paeolums majus and canariense, though grateful for some slight 

 preparation, will, however, often give wonderful results in very 

 indifferent soil ; like Sweet Peas, the two last-named display them- 

 selves to advantage over bushy sticks or any light, wire trellis- 

 work. 



A section of annuals that luxuriates in hot positions, where the 

 soil is rather poor in quality and not likely to become over- 

 saturated with rain, includes Dimorphothcca, Escliscl!olt::ia (bien- 

 nial, but always most satisfactory when grown as an annual). 

 Linaria alpina (perennial). Calceolaria mcxicaiia. Portiilacas and 

 Xcinopliiia iiisi!;)iis. Then there are two annuals that ask for quite 

 different conditions: the diminutive lonopsidiuin acaule prefers 

 slight moisture in the soil and enjoys some shade during the hot- 

 test part of the day; while the other, Liinnanthes Dotiglasii. is an 

 annual that revels in cool, moist conditions at the root, with the 

 vegetative part luxuriating in sunshine. 



Annuals of gigantic stature are found in Cannabis giganica and 

 the various forms of Hclianthus annuus. the first named having 

 its attraction in the foliage. When employed together an excellent 

 screen will quickly result, while the effect in late Summer of the 

 big Sunflowers standing boldly out from a mass of greenery pre- 

 sents quite a pleasing feature in the garden. 



The annuals, however, which give the greatest service in the 

 garden arc those I define as border annuals ; they are strictly 

 hardy annuals and should be sown where they will flower, March 

 being one of the best months to liegin. I have made two groups ; 

 the first, embracing the tallest sorts, includes Callinfsis. Ccnlaurca, 

 Clarkia, Ddt'hinium (Larkspur), Godctia, Hclianthus, Lavatcra 

 and Pafazcr. The .second group, being dwarfer, will require iilac- 

 ing in front of those previous named, and embraces Asperula, 

 Bartnnia, Calendula, Calliopsis, Godctia (dwarf sorts'), Gyp- 

 sophphila elcgaiis, Ibcris umbellata, Linaria reticulata, Malcomia 

 (Virginian Stock), Nigella. Phacelia, Reseda and Viscaria. 



Whether annuals are sown in straight rows or clumps of irregu- 

 lar shape is immaterial, as with a little foresight, even when sown 

 in straight row-s in the first instance, it is tolerably easy to give 

 the groups a broken or intergrouping effect, although, of course, 

 the clump method is much more practical when this end is in view. 

 The great point leading to success lies in thinning out the plants 

 early and systematically; that is, in two or three operations; ulti- 

 mately the plants should stand as far apart as half their average 

 height. Then, as soon as the final thinning is complete, insert a 

 few dwarf, bushy boughs among the plants, so that when in flower 

 no evidence of this support may be seen. 



With regard to the soil for annuals, this should be deeply dug 

 and moderately enriched with farmyard manure to which a dress- 

 ing of slaked lime should be given in advance of sowing. Ground 

 freshly turned just previous to sowing, is best dressed \yith 

 steamed bone flour instead of lime, this being lightly pricked into 

 the surface with a fork, using it at the rate of V/i pound per rod 

 of ground. 



trees get enough, and oftentimes more than enough, of moisture 

 at the roots, but seasons are uncertain, and sometimes we get a 

 hot, dry Summer. Trees planted in the .\utumii, and which be- 

 fore Winter set in have got good hold of the soil, are not so 

 likely to sulTer, but where planting w'as deferred until Spring some 

 means should be taken to protect the roots. With all the care 

 that may be bestowed upon them in the way of watering, progress 

 will never be so good and the trees will never exhibit that thrifty 

 vigor as when the soil around the roots is preserved in a more or 

 less uniformly moist state. By the middle of i\larch a good coat 

 of litter, some 4 indies thick, should be applied, for the drying 

 winds of early Spring are apt to unduly parch the soil before 

 watering is thought of. Watering, indeed, in the case of newly 

 planted trees must be considered as a necessary evil, to be avoided 

 if pos.sible, for if the roots can be kept cool and moist without 

 drenching them with cold water, so much the better for the trees, 

 the health of which in a great measure depends upon the soil in 

 which they are planted remaining at a more or less even tem- 

 perature. 



With a good mulch of long manure, or some such non-conduct- 

 ing material, there will be but little need to water until the Sum- 

 mer arrives, and then an occasional soaking, if the weather should 

 prove exceptionally dry, will ensure to the roots the necessary 

 amount of moisture, any deficiency of which during the first year 

 of growth will exercise a most prejudicial elTect upon the future 

 welfare of the tree. In Xormandy and in other parts of the Con- 

 tinent, where all that relates to the apple is regarded as of the 

 highest interest, mulching is considered one of the most important 

 operations connected with the planting of fruit trees. Few planters 

 there would consider that they had carried out the work in a thor- 

 ough and workmanlike manner did they omit covering the soil 

 over the roots w-ith a thick layer of non-conducting material. 

 Mulching not only acts beneficially in preserving the tree against 

 the effects of the sun's scorching rays, but it lessens labor to a 

 considerable extent, and where the trees are set upon slightly 

 raised mounds it must be regarded as an absolute necessity. 

 Drought is by no means the only enemy that fresh-planted trees 

 have to contend with, as hard frost and continued easterly winds, 

 drying out the soil and arresting the flow of sap, exercise an 

 equally inimical effect upon their health. In many cases where 

 new plantations have failed to do well the cause might be traced 

 to the eft'ects of a hard Winter. When a severe Winter is suc- 

 ceeded by a harsh, dry, early Spring, newly planted trees are apt 

 to get their vitality so lowered that no amount of care afterwards 

 win restore the lost vital tn&vsy.— Gardening Illustrated. 



MULCHING NEWLY PLANTED FRUIT TREES 



Q O much depends upon the start that a young fruit tree makes 



the first year of planting that every care should be taken to 



ensure free growth. In damp, sunless Summers newly planted 



TiiK Principles of Veget.\bi.k Gardenino, by I.. II. I'.ailey; 

 eighteenth edition; re-made and re-set. The Maciuillian Company, 

 New York. 



.\ few sentences from the concluding paragraph deepen and 

 impress the almost tender feelings with which has been examined 

 this work of a man great in many fields of horticulture and yet 

 careful, accurate, thoughtful and thorough in what might be 

 re.garded by some as a rather humble field for his .genius. 



"Here ends the vegetable-gardening book. .\s it begins with 

 plants, so it ends with the home ; thereby is the personal and 

 human interest of the book emphasized. The author enjoyed 

 writing the book twenty years ago. Still more has he enjoyed 

 re-writing it in his maiurer years, and he has lived the subject 

 all over again. He has had many aids not avail.ible then, for 

 now there are numerous workers. . . . He has tried to make 

 it sound, but can not hope to have escaped errors : the reader 

 must exercise his own judgment in the use of statements and 

 advice. The author does not expect to re-write the book again : 

 and if subsequent editions are needed, certain changes may be 

 made." 



It would be bold to attempt a criticism in any way; the two 

 slight misprints discovered are not worth mentioning. Space 

 would better be given, and can well be given, to the author's own 

 outline of tlie plan of the book. 



".After the introductory cha()ter, defining the subjcct-lield. the 

 different vegetables ,ire taken up in groups. They are discussed 

 in groups so that rel;ited crops may be considered together, avoid- 

 ing considerable ri'petition of advice and conlrilniting to a clearer 

 underst.'inding of the subject. The m.iin princi|)les or 



considerations are printed in italic type at the beginning. Then 

 follows in sis^all type the information that slioulil be .•ivailable for 

 ready reference, as distances at which pl.ints are to st.ind. qn.intily 



