256 



GARDENERS' CHRONICLE 



The Greenhouse, Month to Month 



GEORGE F. STEWART 



WI^ are now well into what is termed the Indian Sum- 

 mer. After the first Hght frosts, we are sure to 

 have a spell of warm weather and the greenhouse 

 man is tempted to leave the more hardy plants outdoors 

 for a little while longer. It is, however, safest to take no 

 chances. Get everything into \\'inter t|uarters as quickly 

 as possible. A friend of mine took the risk of leaving 

 his azaleas out late one year and an unexpectedly sharp 

 frost dropped all the bud's, losing a whole season's effort 

 for him. Last September and early October are very 

 busy months. There are so many little things that are 

 likely to be overlooked, especiallv if one is shorthanded, 

 as many are. 



Azaleas that are required by the first of the year should 

 be placed in a cool light house near the glass. Syringing 

 should be avoided as it is likely to start growth which may 

 throw the flower bud. Should any young growths ap- 

 pear, pick them off as soon as they can be handled. The 

 succession azalea plants are better in a cool pit from which 

 frost is kept and which is not too light. In a structure 

 of this kind they may be had in flower up to June if one 

 has the later flowering varieties. They need careful 

 watering, never being allowed to get dry. Occasional 

 waterings with soft coal soot water, we find, keeps a rich 

 color on the foliage and is not likely to stimulate growth 

 if they are kept cool. 



Similar treatment, we find, is g'ood for acacias until 

 they are wanted to come in flower when they must be 

 given all the light possible, but never attempt to force 

 with heat, as it will cause a loss of flower buds and start 

 a new growth. Heaths and all other cool greenhouse 

 hardwood plants may also be stored in a cool pit and 

 when wanted in flower a light cool greenhouse is the 

 place for them. Get all these plants under cover before 

 the end of the month of September. 



liouvardias need an intermediate temperature and 

 plenty of light to develop their flowers. If well rooted 

 in their flowering pots a little stimulating with Clay's 

 fertilizer once a week will help them. All Buddleia 

 asiatica and stevias may be stored in the cnnl pit and re- 

 moved to the cool greenhouse as needed. 



Chrysanthemums are now at an interesting ])eriod and 

 need liberal feeding to swell the flower buds. .\11 water- 

 ing is better if done in the forenoon. Have a nice dry 

 bracing atmosphere over night. Close the bottom ventila- 

 tors on cool nights. It will hel]) to prevent mildew. Light 

 dustings of air slacked lime under the foliage is very help- 

 ful in drying up any moisture that may be around. Dis- 

 bud as soon as the buds can be handled. Train the speci- 

 men bush i)lants into shape as soon as they set hud. Put in 

 cuttings of the I'aris daisy (Chrysaiithciiniiii fnitcsccns) 

 for they will make nice jilauts by S])ring and are useful 

 also for cutting. Another beautiful and quaint flowering 

 plant is Stalice Smi'oroii.'ii. It is an annual and seeds sown 

 now will make nice plants in six-inch pots by Spring. The 

 variety alba in pure white will prove effective when group- 

 ing other colors of plants. 



Fuchsias that were rooted in August ought now to he 

 ready for three-and-a-half-inch pots. If good specimens 

 are wanterl in nine and ten-inch pots next May, keep them 

 moving along without getting pot bound. Train up the 

 centre ^Iv.mi to a stake and at every five or six joints 



pinch it and then take the strongest break for the leader. 

 Take the points out of the side breaks every time they 

 make three or four double leaves. This will fill in the 

 sides of the plant nicely. 



If good strong plants of the Lorraine type of Bci;oiiia 

 are wanted, they can now be transferred to a cool house 

 and hung well up to the light. By this treatment they 

 will last longer than if transferred to a room when in 

 flower. 



.\ny nerines that are overcrowded in their iX)ts may be 

 given a shift but never ]iiit them if there is plenty of 

 water space in the pots. Inmiediately after flowering is 

 the best time to pot them. These beautiful plants ought 

 to be seen around greenhouses in the h'all of the year 

 more frequently than they are. They flower at a season 

 when flowers are none too plentiful and there is now 

 quite a range of color among them. When grouj>ed with 

 adiantum ferns they are verv effective. 



Keep an eye on the calceolaria plants and pot them 

 along if large specimens are desired next Spring. 



I'rinudas may soon be shifted into their flowering pots. 

 Pot all bulbs as soon as thev arrive. They may be stored 

 in any frost proof building and covered with sand to pre- 

 vent the bulbs rising out of the receptacle as they are 

 apt to do, if no pressure is on top of them. Frost will not 

 hurt them but it mav crack the pots. We find that the 

 easiest narcissus, after Paper Whites, to force is A'. 

 JonqniUa Campcrncllii, and it is so much more dainty 

 than many of the others that it is a great favorite with 

 ladies. 



If Iris tingitana is grown, be sure that it is kept in a 

 cool house as it will never flower if forced in heat. 



Giganteum lilies when potted are better placed under 

 a bench where there is no danger of drip and drawn up 

 about four inches. If this is not done they come very 

 short in the stem. Giganteums like a temperature close 

 to sixty degrees at night from the time they are started 

 until the first flower begins to open, when they may be 

 hardened off by removing to a cooler house. Liliitin 

 fonnnsiiiii, we find, does better grown cool and we think 

 on the whole is a better lily for the private gardener. 

 Liliiiui caiidldum also does better grown cool and is a very 

 graceful lily when in flower. Liliuin rcycT/r has not so far 

 forced well with us, but my friend W'm. .\nderson of 

 Lancaster, Mass., says that if ke])t over in the same ]iot 

 it does much better the second year. 



Tropical plants will now have al)(iut cumplctccl llirir 

 season's growth and from now on and inv sonie lime 

 stinuilation will not be necessary. If >uch plants as 

 Crotoii are forced into growth at this season, a soft set of 

 leaves is likely to be the result, if we have a long period 

 of cloudv weather they might dro]i. The shade may he 

 removed over the crotons anil a night temperature around 

 sixty degrees maintained, giving i)lenty of air on all 

 favorable days. P>y this treatment the leaves will color 

 nicelv and the plants will get good and firm wliicii will 

 cause them to give much belter satisfaction when used for 

 decorative pur]X)ses. 



Marantas will re(|uire .'i •-jniilar treatment as the ai)ove, 

 only must be shaded a little longer on blight days than 

 crotons. The same is true about alocasias. .niihurinms and 

 other tropic.nl plants of similar nature. 



