Tor October, 1922 



293 



The Greenhouse, Month to Month 



GEORGE P. STEWART 



THIS month the chrysanthemums will be the chief at- 

 tractions. They will be flowering profusely from the 

 last of October until the middle of November. Of 

 course, some early varieties will have gone by, and late 

 varieties will straggle along until the first of the year. It 

 is interesting to note the great change that has taken place 

 toward the chrysanthemum around Boston. Fifteen to 

 thirty years ago, the fashion was for large blooms, and 

 enormous specimen plants. Of late years, on many pri- 

 vate estates there has been a distinct reaction, and smaller 

 plants without disbudding are called for. Also one will 

 see on some places, three stems run up in a seven- oi 

 eight-inch pot, three to four feet, according to the variety, 

 and then a spray of flowers on each stem. These plants 

 are very eft'ective for using in high windows in the house, 

 and are just as useful for cutting for vases. They also 

 appear more natural than the enormous single flower, 

 which as one lady said to me, reminded her of a floor 

 mop. I believe, however, that in certain positions a vase 

 •of large bloom are very effective, and show the grower's 

 skill. In our exhibitions here in Boston of late years, there 

 has been very few large specimen plants exhibited, and 

 very few large blooms in vases. Some very effective 

 groups, however, have been put up, arranged with othei 

 plants. The greenhouse man's aim shotild be to suit the 

 taste and ideas of his employer. 



This is a good time to weed out undesirable varieties. 

 There may be shades of color that do not appeal to the 

 family and some of the newer varieties may be considered 

 better than the older ones. While they are in flower, it is 

 better to take note of these things and know what and 

 how many of a given variety may be grown another 

 season. 



Careful watering of chrysanthemums must be done as 

 the flower begins to open. By the afternoon the floors 

 should be dry and a nice dry atmosphere maintained over 

 night. The earlier flowering varieties may be moved 

 away from the later ones, if they are grown in pots, when 

 syringings may be given them to keep red spider in check. 

 We have seen this destructive little insect destroy the later 

 flowers, before they were ready to cut, when they were 

 planted out on a bench carelessly among the early flower- 

 ing ones. 



in the cool greenhouse more careful watering must be 

 ■done among the hard wood plants as the day shortens. 

 If there is anything that these plants will not stand it is 

 careless watering. It is no use in putting any man who 

 has no love for these plants to look after them, and he 

 must likewise have had experience among them. It may 

 be that, because of these exacting requirements, so few 

 of these once popular plants are seen arovmd nowadays. 

 I refer especially to such plants as Baucra, Pinielca, 

 Eriostcmon, Lnculia grafissima, Daphne, Heaths, etc. 

 Every gardener ought to familiarize himself with the 

 culture of these plants as there are none that are hand- 

 somer when they are well grown. Many of our young 

 men need training as to their requirements, and it is up 

 to the older generation to see that they are taught. 



Any cyclamen plants that are to be kept for late work 

 in March, may be given their final shift this month, and 

 brought along in a cool house avoiding draughts. A 

 good compost is one part nice fibery loam ; one part flakey 



leaves, preferably oak or beech ; a little dried cow 

 manure ; enough sharp sand to keep the soil porous ; also 

 a sprinkling of broken charcoal, b'umigate at least once 

 a week with some of the tobacco remedies. Hydrocyanic 

 gas may be used by an experienced person. We have 

 found tbat it is cheaper, more effective, and does not need 

 to be done as often as with the nicotine remedies. 



Primula obconica can be had in several shades of color, 

 ^lany object to the magenta shades, but the whites and 

 blues are fine. Some cannot handle this plant without 

 getting poisoned. Personally, I cannot touch it. I can 

 well remember, as a young man about thirty years ago, 

 a very vmreasonable gardener whom I worked under, 

 insisted that I handle it. My hands and arms were a 

 sight. Everyone should be warned about this danger, 

 especially if used for house decoration. These plants may 

 get their final potting this month, using a good rich loam. 

 All primulas can be kept in cold frames for quite a while 

 yet. if the frames are well built. The greenhouse is likely 

 to be crowded until the chrysanthemum season is over. 

 A mat over the glass will generally keep out all frost 

 until well into November. 



Some of the larger hybrid calceolarias ought to be . 

 fit for nine-inch pots in early November ; that is, if they 

 were sown in April and moved right along. Keep them 

 in the coolest house and as close to the glass as possible. 

 The finest specimens I have ever seen, were all the time, 

 from first of October until they threw up their flower 

 stems, kept so close to the glass that one could merely 

 pass the open hand between the glass and the plant. Of 

 course, they had to be lowered gradually as they grew. 



Fuchsias that are intended for what we call half speci- 

 mens, in nine- and ten-inch pots next May, should be 

 in five-inch pots in early November if they are doing well. 

 Pinch and shape them as advised in an earlier article, 

 and keep them in a night temperature around fifty-five 

 degrees. 



Annuals such as Calendula, Dhnorphothcca, lupines, 

 snapdragons, stocks, that are wanted for Winter flower- 

 ing, must not be allowed to get into a starved condition. 

 If they are grown in pots, move them along until the 

 desired size is reached. If they are to be planted out on 

 a bench, sav after chrysanthemums, it is better to give 

 them a small shift rather than that they should suffer. 

 We have sometimes kept up the vigor by knocking them 

 out of the small pots and setting them in flats. Sprinkle 

 a very thin layer of rich loam over the bottom of each 

 flat before setting the plants in them. We have kept 

 them this way in good condition from two to three weeks. 



Carnations that have been bench-grown will now be 

 giving fine flower stems, and the bench will be full of 

 roots. See that a little stimulation is given occasionally. 

 We have used Clay's fertilizer successfully, and sheep 

 manure scattered over the surface of the bench for a 

 change. A friend of mine, who is a very fine grower, 

 tells me he uses tankage in slight applications with 

 success. 



As the days shorten, the rosehouse needs careful watch- 

 ing as regards air and moisture. Over night have all 

 moisture dried off the leaves after syringing and the 

 floors dry also. Keep the soil on the bench in a fairly 

 moist condition at all times. Experience has taught me. 



