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GARDENERS' CHRONICLE 



under our conditions, that we have less black spot to 

 contend with by keeping the soil around the plants on 

 the moist side, rather than on the dry side. 



To those who have plenty of bench space, vegetables 

 may be grown from Xovcniber on. Beans, carrots, beets. 

 New Zealand spinach, lettuce, etc. are always acceptable 

 in a young tender state. They can be grown successfully 

 in a night temperature around sixty degrees with a ten 

 to fifteen degrees rise during the day. Lettuce will do 

 better in a lower temperature. Tomatoes, of course, are 

 always acceptable if one gets a good forcing variety and 

 careful cultivation is practiced. 



Now is the time to begin fighting mealy bug on the 

 grape vines, and scale insect on the fruit trees indoors. 

 In my opinion there is nothing better than Hydrocyanic 

 gas. There is a nice little booklet that can be had from 

 the Roessler & Hasslacher Chemical Co.. Perth .Vmboy, 

 N. J., telling in an up-to-date manner how to use it. 

 They also supply cyanide in one ounce egg-shaped pieces 

 which are most convenient. If the gas is used according 

 to directions in the booklet, every two weeks while the 

 fruit trees and vines are dormant, there will be very 

 little trouble in the growing season with bugs and scale. 

 If, however, they have been badly infected over a period 

 of years, one season will not eradicate them. Also after 

 we have them clean, we still keep it up. for although 

 we see no signs of these insects, prevention is better than 



cure. I have used this gas for a great number of years, 

 (in fact, ever since it began to be known on this side of 

 the Atlantic) on a great many diflferent kinds of plants, 

 and consider it one of the greatest time saving funiigants 

 known to the greenhouse man. There are a number of 

 plants which will get slightly injured with it, and one 

 has to learn by experience what to eliminate from a 

 greenhouse when using it. I would never think of using 

 it on oi'chids, as everytime I attempted it they were 

 injured. George Pring, of St. Louis, told me they can 

 use it on these plants out there without injury to them. 

 Atmospheric conditions may have a good deal to do 

 with it. 



Cattleyas Bozi.'riniiiaHa and labiata are in sheath and 

 j)Ushing up their flowers. They have to be carefully 

 watered, and we find after cutting the flowers of C. labiata, 

 which should be done with a clean cut, it is better for 

 some time to keep them in a rather dry atmosphere until 

 the cut dries. After the flowers are cut, if kept in too 

 moist a condition, the bulb of this cattleya is apt to rot. 

 Dcudrohium Phalccnopsis Schrocdcrianum is als(5 flower- 

 ing. We find it does well in a temperature never lower 

 than sixty degrees. It propagates readily. We got a 

 small offset from a friend about seventeen years ago, and 

 have raised eighteen plants from that one piece. The 

 flowers are one of the most useful and decorative of the 

 orchid family. 



Work for the Month in the Garden 



SAMUEL GOLDING 



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N( )\\' that the majority of crops has been gathered in, 

 there remains but a few weeks ere Winter makes its 

 reappearance. However, much can be accomplished 

 during open weather toward laying the foundation for 

 next year's crops. The breaking up of new ground, dig- 

 ging and trenching; mixing the subsoil and incorporating 

 some good farm yard manure. When this is well done it 

 has a most important bearing on the success of the crops, 

 as it provides for more depth and a more fertile rooting 

 medium, wiiich will help the various plants to withstand 

 the heat and draught of Summer. Any subsoil brought 

 to the surface will receive the mellowing influence of the 

 Winter's frost. This work, if done now, will save 

 valuaijle time when the Spring rush is here, for it will 

 then need only raking and leveling to l)e ready for the 

 reception of seeds or plants. 



Complete the lifting of late potatoes and other roots, 

 storing them away for Winter use. Make pre])arations 

 for forcing asparagus, seakale, chicory and rhubarb; lift 

 a few roots and keep them as cool as possible. They 

 respond more readily when brought into heat, if they 

 have been subjected to some frost. Cut over the asparagus 

 bed, as soon as the stems are ripe, and fork in a g(jod 

 coating of manure, whicli will save time in the Spring. 



If .severe frost threatens, lift caulillowcr and ])lace close 

 together in a fit, deep frame, or cool shed where it will 

 keep for a considerable time. Lift late endive and lettuce 

 and place in cold frames; failing this means of protection, 

 use some salt hay or other material to cover them during 

 frosty snaps. 



Remove the bottom foliage from the I'.russels sprouts 

 to give the growing sprouts all light and sunshine durini^ 

 the brief growing seas<jn that remains. This is a vege- 

 table whose importance and value is oftimes overlooked 

 during the days of plenty, before a killing frost takes 



away the more tender. It requires a good season growth 

 and will be much appreciated at this time. Clean up and 

 burn all decaying foliage and vegetable matter. 



Linish earthing up late celery, which should be done 

 by the end of October or early in Xovember, as we may 

 experience .severe frost. When well banked ui> it is (|uite 

 .safe. Make preparations for its removal to Winter 

 quarters in Xovember. If wintered outside, collect mat*-, 

 rial for protection in case of an early emergency. 



.Make up Mushroom beds for Winter bearing. Late 

 vegetables growing in frames will need careful attention, 

 regarding the watering and ventilating. Have a supply of 

 mats on hand for covering the sash on cold nights. 



.\s soon as the Summer bedding has been cut down, 

 begin preparations innnediately for the Si)ring flowering 

 luflbs. (iet the tulips, iiyacinths, narcissi, scillas i)lanted 

 when preparing the beds for their recei)tion, avoid too 

 heavy a coating of manure. If they were well maimred 

 in the Spring it should be sufficient. 



I f hardy Lilies are ordered from the dealer, arrange 

 and prepare the location for planting them. Give the 

 ground a dressing of leaf soil. In case of late delivery, 

 cover the groiuid with some protection to prevent it 

 from freezing u]), so they can be i)lanted as soon as I hey 

 are received to ])revent any shrivelling of the bulbs. 



Tlie Hardy Chrysanthennim continues gay throughout 

 \\w month. The recent s])ell of warm weather has im- 

 l)ro\'e(l them. They should have some protection on cold 

 nights. Lift dahlias, cannas. gladioli, and allow them to 

 dry outside before storing. If ordinary wooden labels 

 are used to label them, attach the l.-ilu-ls to the tubers with 

 a |)iccc of wire. 



When siring is used, it oftimes decays and causes con- 

 fusion of names when tiiey arc brought out in the .Spring. 

 It is a good ))lan to store then) crown downward, so that 



