314 



GARDENERS' CHRONICLE 



narcissus. The bulbs are much larger, deteriorate ra])i(lly 

 in the dry atmosphere of the stores, and cost considerably 

 more than the paper-whites. It is therefore advisable for 

 those who have never grown bulbs indoors to first try the 

 narcissi and as cultural experience increases attempt 

 growinsr the Chinese sacred lily. 



The Dutch hyacinth is also readily grown in water, but 

 it takes longer for the flower to develoji and only one 

 bulb ma}- \ye. grown in a glass. (Hyacinth glasses can lie 

 obtained at the seed stores.) Only the choicest bulbs 

 should be purchased and preferably named varieties. A 

 piece of charcoal about an inch square should be placed 

 in the glass to keep the water fresh, the bulb set in the 

 cui)ped portion, and water added until it barely touches 

 the base of the bulb. \o pebbles are necessary, but water 

 should be added occasionally to keep the level constant. 

 The bulbs are then placed in a cool dark place, as with 

 the narcissi, and should l>e left there until the glass is 

 well filled with roots. The plants should never be placed 

 in direct sunlight but brought to the light gradually. The 

 h\acinth has the misfortune of being overanxious to grow, 

 and occasionally the flowers develop so rapidly that the 

 spike cannot get out of the bulb, or sometinies the leaves 

 have grown so fast that when the flowers open the spike 

 is down among them. The Dutch hyacinths may also be 

 grown in pots of soil, in which case they are given prac- 

 tically the same treatment as the narcissi, care being taken 

 that in nlanting the tips of the bulbs protrude just above 

 the surface. 



The Roman hyacinths are bulbs of the easiest culture. 

 and success with them in pots of soil is more uniform 

 than with the Dutch hyacinths. The bulbs are small, but 

 many spikes of flowers come from each bulb. The 

 flowers are loosely arranged along the spikes, giving a 

 more graceful effect than the stifif Dutch hyacinth. They 

 should be given the same treatment as other bulbs, but 

 may be brought indoors sooner than the Dutch hyacinths. 



Tulips and other bulbs may be grown indoors, but re- 

 sults are not as satisfactory as with those described. — 

 Missouri Botanical Garden Bulletin. 



WINTER PROTECTION FOR SMALL 

 FRUIT PLANTS 



CMALL fruits should not be [jermitted to enter the Win- 

 ter unattended. This class of food producers is 

 grown in ]>ractically every garden and still little attention 

 is given the plants. Strawberries, raspberries, gooseber- 

 ries. l)lackberries and currants are for the most part a 

 hardy l(jt. They will grow and bear fairly well with a 

 minimum of attention. It is jjrobably for this reason that 

 the plants are neglected to such an extent. Their thrifti- 

 ness, however, says the Stanford Advocate, should not 

 cause any gardener to neglect the plants. Good growth 

 anfl fair crops of fruit are not the points to consider in 

 small fruit culture. It is bumper crops and healthy, 

 sturdy ])lants that should be desired. 



I'.efore cold weather closes in there is considerable work 

 that should be attended to. The more carefully this is 

 done the larger will be the production of the plants. 

 Those jilantings overrun with weeds need cleaning of 

 them. With the brambles and bu.sli fruits growing in 

 relatively large areas it is best to plow out the central 

 space I'letween the plants, turning the furrciws away from 

 the rows. Then, with a grub or other hand tool cut out 

 the grass and weerl growth so as to free the rows of 

 noxious plants and leave no harbor for the mice. Be- 

 fore the ground freezes up for the Winter the furrows 

 must be turned Iwck toward the j>lants again. All sucker 

 shoots conu'ng u]) between the i)lants in the rows should 



be cut awav unless some of the stronger of these are 

 wanted for Spring planting. 



In the case of strawberries such grubbing is impossible, 

 but a hand hoe should be used to cut any grass or weeds 

 that may be in the rows l>etween the plants. ^lany cul- 

 lurists lea\e their stra\yberries unheeded until Spring, 

 but this should never beliflone when there is time for the 

 work in Fall. Plantations left for Spring clearing are 

 usually neglected for other work and the crop becomes 

 greatly reduced as a consetiuence. In Fall hoeing be care- 

 ful not to cover the hearts with soil or unduly disturb the 

 plants. If the bed is comparatively free of weeds then 

 this hoeing can be left undone. Some plant food should 

 be given the plants in the Fall and a ])rotecting material 

 applied soon after the ground freezes. 



While ])roperly pruned liramljle^ may stand alone 

 through even the most inclement weather, the plants are 

 better off if given support. By erecting supports in the 

 form of stakes or trellises it is an easy matter to tie the 

 canes to them and prevent their breaking or becoming 

 misshapen from the loads of snow and the sleet. While 

 this supporting is not always practical in the commer- 

 cial planting, it is entirely so in the home garden and 

 should not be neglected. The supports need not Ije e.\- 

 jiensive or ornamental. A single wire or two stretched 

 along the row will sufifice admirably. The wire should 

 be placed so as to give the plants the maximum supixirt. 



Many of the .small fruits need Winter protection. Cur- 

 rants and gooseberries are ironclad and need no top 

 cover. Blackberries of most varieties are very hardy. 

 But the raspberries of many sorts are better for a cover- 

 ing at the tops. Wlien this is done the plants can be 

 bundled up, that is, several canes tied to a single stake 

 or at one point on the trellis and covered over with straw, 

 salt hay, cornstalks or other protecting material. Some- 

 times the canes are turned down to the g-round and there 

 covered until Spring with litter and soil. When the more 

 tender bram1>les can be ])rotccted in an upright position 

 it is not advisable to turn them down to the ground. 



All the small fruits need mulching at the roots. This 

 stops the alternate freezing and thawing which frecjuently 

 produces such disastrous results. If the mulch is of 

 manure then the plants are fed at the same time they are 

 jjrotected. The manure should not be worked into the 

 soil, but left on the surface. Broadcast it for a distance 

 of several feet on all sids of the plants instead of im- 

 mediately surrounding the main stems. Long strawy 

 manure, or that which is half rotted, is preferable to weil 

 rotted manure for mulching the small fruits. 



In mulching strawberries be careful not to ap])ly too 

 much mateiial over the crowns of the plants. .\ covering 

 two inches deeji of fairly light, loose material is better 

 than ;i thick mulch, for too thick a protection may 

 Miiother out iir ilc\itnlize the jilants. lietween the rows, 

 the inaniuc or other material may be applied several 

 inches thick without harm. 



Only a short time remains to put the small fruits into 

 condition for Winter. While the mulch about the roots 

 mav be ap])licd ,it any time after the ground has frozen 

 the other work should be done now. The sooner it is at- 

 tended to the l>etter. .\'ext season's small fruit produc- 

 tion is dependent <|uile as much on the Fall care of the 

 ]jl.int< as .111 the Snring and earl\- Summer oiierations. 



Work lor some good, be it ever so slowly: 

 Cherish some flower, be it ever so lowly; 

 I.;il;iirl all l;ili(ir is noble ,-nid boh-; 

 I. el thy grc;it deed be thy prayer to thy Cod. 



l-ranccs S. Osi^^ood. 



