14 



GARDENERS' CHROMCLE 



The drainage, however, should be examined frequently 

 and a little top-dressing given at this season, and after 

 they are growing good, well fed with stimulants, using 

 a little variety. 



Large plants of calceolaria that are wanted for ex- 

 hibition in May, may now be given their final shift. The 

 great thing is to keep these plants cool, thirty-eight to 

 forty at night is warm enough unless wanted to flower 

 eaiiy. The stewartii type we can flower in July, by pinch- 

 ing, potting a few days after they are cut back, and shad- 

 ing'. This is the best season to propagate this type, and 

 if large plants are wanted another year, carry over the 

 later struck ones in five- or si.x-inch pots, or even larger, 

 according to the size desired at flowering time. 



Any large fuchsia plants that have been carried over 

 may now be trimmed into shape. Pyraniid shape is ideal 

 for fuchsias, and of course, they look very pretty as 

 standards. Keep the growths pinched until eight weeks 

 before they are wanted to flower. Cuttings of these plants 

 that were rooted in August , by February 14 should be fit 

 for their flowering pots. We find nine- and ten-inch pots 

 big enough for the first year. The ball of the old plants 

 may be reduced and potted in the same pot, giving a 

 larger shift later if they start well. 



An early batch of achimenes can be started now. Space 

 the rhizomes in a tray, the bottom of which has been 

 covered with ground up sphagnum moss. Cover them 

 lightly with a mixture of leaf mold and sand. When the 

 young shoots are about two inches high, space them in the 

 pot or pan they are to be grown in. By starting them 

 into growth first in the flat, growths of an equal strength 

 may be potted in each pan, which will make a more uni- 

 form plant when flowering. They grow well in equal 

 parts of loam, leaf mold, and sand, in a night temperature 

 of 60 deg. They must always be lightly shaded from the 

 sun and carefully watered in their earlier stages, never 

 allowing water to lie on the foliage. The more slender 

 varieties make beautiful hanging baskets. 



Increase, or renew the stock of Bouvardia at this season. 

 They form plants from root cuttings. Bear in mind, how- 

 ever, that slight variations in color are likely to happen 

 with root cuttings. Top cuttings from the young growths 

 root in alrout a month, if one has a good bottom heat in 

 the propagating bed, and they come true to color. 



Batches of cuttings of the general run of bedding 

 plants should now be secured and rooted, such as coleus, 

 heliotrope, begonias, ageratum, lantanas, etc. 



Poinsettias, after they are past flowering, may be laid 

 on their sides near the pipes under a greenhouse bench 

 that is run around .^0 deg. night temperature. 



Euphorbia Jacquini;eflora or fulgens, which is also an- 

 other fine Christmas plant, must be kept on the bench 

 and carefully watered after flowering. A second crop of 

 flowers may be secured if desired, and after that, growing 

 shoots will start on the stems, which when about three 

 inches long, will make ideal cuttings for another season. 

 These two Euphorbias are among the best for Christmas 

 decoration, but many do not care for them after that 

 season has passed. 



Nerines are now making their growth, feed them well 

 until they show signs of having completed their growing 

 period. Keep them on a goo<l light bench in a cool tem- 

 perature. I believe these plants will be more largely 

 grown in the near future. Professor Sargent, near Bos- 

 ton, has the finest cf)llection of nerines I know of. His 

 veteran gardener. Charles Sanders, is very successful \\ith 

 them and has raised quite a number of new crosses. 



Our plant of Mackaya Bella, after a slight drying 

 process for the lasts two months, has now set its flower 

 buds and will be given plenty of water in which soot 



has l)een mixd. .\fter flowering it will be potted and 

 pruned into shape. 



Put in leaf cuttings of the beautiful Saintpaulia 

 ionantha. Small plants when in flower are most useful 

 subjects for table decoration. They root best in an open 

 proi)agating bed, as the fleshy leaves are apt to rot m a 

 close case. Saintpaulias must be grown under shade and 

 water never allowed to get on the foliage. 



Ctclogynes are showing their flowers scapes, and will 

 be benefited by more water. Keep it away from the young 

 growths, as if moisture gets into them they are likelv to 

 decay. 



Alany cyi)ripediums are flowering at this season. They 

 enjoy a temperature around 50 to 55 deg. and a moist at- 

 mosphere. A very light shading as the sun gets stronger 

 is necessary. Dense shading will result in weak foliage 

 and poor flowers. Cattleya Percivaliana is now finishing 

 flowering and cattleya triana is commencing. A night 

 temperature of 50 to 55 deg. we find is all right for these 

 orchids, and a very slight shading even in Summer. I 

 never allow them to get too dry, even when seemingly 

 at rest. Odontoglossum crispum is now making its 

 growths and should have plenty of moisture in the house 

 at all times. Give them plenty of water, but do not keep 

 them in a soggy condition. Rain water, of course, is best 

 for them. Calanthes Macwilliamsii, Orpetiana and Ryanii 

 are in full flower with us. the earlier ones have gone to 

 rest. 



\'entilation is a very imi:)ortant part of the greenhouse 

 man's work at this season. We quite often have zero 

 and much lower temperatures, which necessitates heavy 

 firing, and when the sun comes out the thermometer will 

 mount rapidly. Opening of the ventilators must be done 

 gradually to avoid draughts, and one has to make the 

 rounds of the different compartments quite often for fear 

 of too sudden changes in the temperature. Damping of 

 the floors will help to keep the house cooler, if done fre- 

 quently during the earlier part of the day. It is better to 

 let the temperature nm a little higher with sun heat, when 

 the temperature is low outdoors. 



Grapes that have been started early should liy the 

 middle of February have had the temperature raised grad- 

 ually until it has attained 60 cleg, all night : allowing it to 

 rise with sun heat; in middle of the day to 80 deg., and 

 then gradually reducing the ventilation as the sun goes 

 down. They should have been sprayed lightly on all 

 bright days two or three times. Borders will need ex- 

 amining frequently to keep them in a unif(irni moist con- 

 dition. Watch the young shoots as they break and thin 

 out all the weaker growths, leaving the strongest one to 

 each sjnir. The rod should be tied in position as soon 

 as an even break is secured all over the vine. 



Early peaches and nectarines will also be well advanced 

 and an eye must be kept on the wood that it does not get 

 overcrowded on the trellis. Thin out all the weaker fruits 

 when they are about the size of small hazlenuts. The 

 foliage may be sjirayed over until the fruit begins to 

 ripen. I'e sure that the pot fruit does not sufl'er for lack 

 of food and water. The roots being cunfmed into small 

 space, dry out very often, ami frr(|ucnt waterings leach 

 out the ])lant food. 



Keep uj; a succession of forcing vegetables if room is 

 available. The annual spinach will grow cool along with 

 lettuce. Beans and tomatoes can be kept as high as 

 60 (leg. 



Kcc]) thinking ahead as there will lie [)lenly lo lake up 

 erne's attention as S])ring approaches. 



When any duty is to be done, it is fortunate for you if 

 you feel like doing it: but, if you do not feel like it, that 

 IS no reason for not doing it. — IV. Gladden. 



