116 



GARDENERS' CHROISICLE 



lips, kist as a rule several years without any disturbance. 

 However, as they flower, their general appearance should 

 be noted, and if there are any signs of deterioration, the 

 clump should be marked, and after the flowers begin to 

 fade, lifted, and replaced next Fall with new bulbs. 



Manv flowering shrubs will be in their glory this month, 

 and as' soon as the flowers drop, one should look over 

 the bushes, and remove as much of the old wood as will 

 not interfere too much with the shape of the plant. Every 

 chance should be given for any young growths to de- 

 velop. Anv plants that are standing out by themselves 

 ma>- have i)een allowed to ramble into growth forming 

 old' gnarled branches. The time arrives when they have 

 to be dealt with and a severe cutting back is the only 

 remedv. They may look a little bare for a season, but 

 there is generallv plent_\- of young wood near the centre 

 which, when given a chance to develop, will soon take 

 the place of what has been cut away. Dig around the 

 plant at the same time, applying plenty of plant food 

 suitable to it. 



Rhododendrons have wintered very badly with us. The 

 plantation here was about fifty years old, planted origi- 

 nally in peat with a little mixture of an upland loam, red 

 in color. This loam, from my observation, seems ideal 

 for shrub growing, especially for our native ones. The 

 rhododendrons. I believe, we're badly damaged in the ice 

 storm in the Fall of 1921, as they were then flattened 

 right out on the ground. Although they apparently re- 

 co\ered their shape and outline, now there are quite large 

 pieces burned quite red, especially near the top of some 

 of the plants, some of which were fifteen feet high. Give 

 the damaged parts a chance, and if they show signs of 

 breaking "into growth lower down the stems, cut them 

 back immediatelv above these young shoots, and they 

 may in time fill in again. However, rhododendrons are 

 never a sure thing near Boston. 



The more hardy bedding plants may now be planted 

 out about the middle of May. The tender sorts are better 

 to be kept in the frames until the first week in June. 

 Although one may not expect frost, yet coleus are affected 

 by a raw wind w'hen they are first set out, if the weather 

 is' inclined that way. 



Look out for leaf rollers and other insect pests on the 

 rose bushes. The dry dust comjMsition is one of the most 

 up-to-date remedies for many of these enemies of the 

 rose, the leaves being more easily washed clean when 

 roses are to be cut. And the rose bugs, well ! they are 

 yet with us. is about all that can be said, and the best 

 remedy is. catch them. 



Kee]> an eve on all plants in the flower garden that 

 need staking. ' This is an art, and we liave never yet seen a 

 real good stake for this purpose, there are very few who 

 can do this very necessary work, and preserve the natur.il 

 shajje of the plant. 



A last sowmg of annual asters (American l)i-anohing) 

 may be mafic tlie first week in June. These, if planted on 

 good rich, new land, will give flowers very late. The 

 early frosts do not seem to hurt them much, and we find 

 that" along with gladioli they are among the best of our 

 late cut flowers. 



Keei) the hoe going whenever time ]>ermits. It is bet- 

 ter than an apjilication of fertilizer, if done often enough. 

 A neat, well kei)t place dei)ends a great deal on how well 

 the walks and lawns are kept in fit condition. Mow the 

 lawns twice a week, if one can afiford the labor, and the 

 walks should be edged and raked, at least once, in that 

 space of time. 



The greenhouses, in a way, need very watch fid c;ire 

 at this sea.son. Draughts are nr)t easily avoided, owing 

 to the prevalence of the east wind, which at this season. 



is apt to spring up any minute in this section of the 

 country. Spring jjotted plants of the hardwood nature 

 need careful watering. The new compost may not yet be 

 netted with roots from the old ball, and care should be 

 exercised that that jjart of the root does not get quite dry, 

 before the outer part, near the outside of the pot. All 

 these details determines if your specimens are to make 

 a nice even thrifty growth. Look the plants over several 

 times this month, and any exceptionally strong shoot 

 may be given another pinch. If this is not done, a few 

 strong growths, allowed to grow at will, are very apt to 

 spoil the shape and symmetry of the plant, besides weak- 

 ening the other shoots. 



Camellias are again growing freely ; examine the drain- 

 age, making sure that water has a free outlet as a stag- 

 nant condition is certain death to them. It is not safe 

 to use Hydrocyanic gas on the young growth, and other 

 means must be employed to keep plants clean during the 

 Summer. \\'e use Uarrie's soap sprayer, a most useful 

 instrument, when filled with soap and attached to the 

 faucet with a g-ood nozzle on the end of the hose. We 

 give them a thorough good syringing, when they need 

 water. It not only keeps insects in check but it also 

 loosens the black smut that is very likely to collect on the 

 leaves of old plants. Feed the plants lightly if thev have 

 not been repotted. We find they respond to Clay's Fertil- 

 izer, weak cow manure water and Scotch soot, if not over- 

 done. 



If late shrubby calceolarias are wanted, pick oft' all 

 the flower buds that are showing, and give them a cool 

 shady position. Feed them liberally, until they show 

 color quite prominently. By doing this, we have had 

 fine plants in July, only they did not last as long in flower 

 as earlier in the season. 



About the end of May, Bouvardias for Fall flowering 

 may be planted outdoors. However, much better results 

 may be had, if one has a bench indoors for them. One 

 can pinch them later than outdoors, timing them to come 

 in after the chrysanthemums. If kept clean and fed well, 

 after the bench is full of roots, better flowers than on 

 the outdoor grown plants, will be produced. 



^Ve do not grow exhibition chrysanthemums and we 

 never plan to have them rooted earlier than the first of 

 June. We grow four plants to a seven inch pot, running 

 them up by disbudding in the usual way for single stem 

 flowers, until they are about four feet high, then we let 

 all the buds and shoots develop n.aturally. These plants 

 we use for cut sjjrays, and also as ix>t plants in very high 

 windows, in which i>osition they are very decorative. 

 Rooted so late, if not overcrowded, the foliage is retained 

 well down to the pot. Of course, as regards plant food, 

 and other conditions of culture, we treat thein as well as 

 we know how, under our condition.s. In the years now 

 behind us, when growing exhibition plants, we always 

 liked to have them in their final pots by the first of June. 

 Single stems for the same ptn-pose we potted at the same 

 time. We have always contended that better flowers were 

 grown in pots. However, a very fine grower whose son 

 now stands high in our N. G. Association once told me, 

 that he grew his blooms planted out on a shallow l)ench, 

 .and he said furthermore, that he himself planted them out 

 of four inch ]>ots on the fourth of July, when the boys 

 were awa\- having a good time. .Xt any rate he produced 

 the llnwers. when the great day of competition arrived. 



Boronia elatior flowers with us in a cool bouse, some- 

 what shaded during the last of May : the variety |)innata 

 is (he best if it can be obtained. Pimelea decussata flowers 

 abunt the same time, I wish I knew where to get the 

 variety si)ectabilis ; as it is, in my opinion, the best hard- 

 wood plants arc now sadly neglected. 1 do hope .some 

 one will ni;d<e a bol)b\ n\ ilicni one of these days, as 



