224 



GARDE^ERS' CHRONICLE 



as Gladiolus, except that .Montlnetias slunild he stt)ie(l 

 in dry sand. 



The tidjers of Kichardia alho-niaculata and of Coni- 

 niehna coelestis are dug at the same time and wintered 

 by the same method as Dalilias, but Comnielina should 

 be planted out in Spring without being allowed to 

 start into growth. 



Tigridias after the first hard frost should be lifted 

 with their tops on. tied into bunches and hung up in 

 a dry cellar or rt)om in such a way that the mice, which 

 are very fond of them, cannot get at them. If hung in 

 a moist cellar, they will rot. The tops can be cut off 

 and the bulbs be put in tuicc-proof. but well ventilated 

 boxes. 



Calochortus. when frost comes, should be tlug and 

 put in dry moss or sand and ke])t drv and w ;irin (luring 

 the Winter. They can also be wintered in the ground 

 if thoroughly protected from water and frost. 



Tuberous-rooted IJegonias. if growing in outiKmr 

 beds, should be lifted on the coming of frost and dried 

 oflf. and then placed in dry earth or sand, and kept in 

 a warm, dry place. Not later than the first part of 

 the following March they should be potted and started 

 into growth again, as after that date they deteriorate. 



Tuberoses, after frost, should be taken up and their 

 tops cut oflf about two inches above the bulbs and the 

 bulbs stored in a dry room where the temperature is 

 not below forty degrees. 



Milla biflora. not long after the first hard frost, 

 should be lifted and dried out. and put in flats about 

 two inches deep and stored with the Gladiolus. When 

 the leaves of Ranunculus separate from the roots by 

 a gentle pull and the leaves of Anemone coronaria 

 die down, it is time to take them up without any delav 

 whatever. .After thej- arc cleaned v\p. the bulbs should 

 be put in a shady place and turned until entirelv dry. 

 If kept dry, the tubers of the Ranunculus will retain 

 their vitality for two or three years. Ranunculus is 

 really a cool greenhouse plant, but is grown success- 

 fullv outdoors in frames. 



NOTES FROM AN OLD COUNTRY GARDEN 



{Continued from /'fl.ijr 222) 



many flowers have gone over. The individual blossoms 

 on G. se])tenifida are deeply bell-sha])ed, often more than 

 one inch across and each of the many nine inch stems 

 put up by a hearty plant will frequently bear as many as 

 15 of these noble flowers. 'J'hough sometimes listed as 

 a distinct species (/. lagodcchiana is only a slightly 

 smaller, more prostrate, form of the above with blossoms 

 of rather a paler blue. 



Just after these comes the much newer ( 1. I''arreri, a 

 sujx;rb species which has won its way into all good 

 gardens not only on account of its unrivalled beauty but 

 because it is, as gentians go, by no means a difficult sub- 

 ject. In the late Mr. Farrer's own w<;rds, this wonder- 

 ful plant sends out "many flopping, slender shoots clad 

 in very narrow foliage, and ending each in a single, 

 huge, up-turnecl trumjiet, wide-mouthed and of an in- 

 describably fierce anrl luminous Cambridge blue within 

 fvvith a clear white throat) which, without, long van- 

 dykes of periwinkle-pur])le alternate with swelling panels 

 of nankeen outlined in violet and with a violet median 

 line. . . . It is by far the mo.st astoundingly beautiful 

 of its race, reducing G. verna and G. gcntianella to the 

 dimmest acolytes." Need one say more in praise of what 

 is one of the most entrancing ])lants that the sumi)tuous 

 treasure gardens of Tibet have yet yielded? 



The kni()hofias, or red-hot poker ]>lants, have always 

 been favorites in this country, for they afford just those 

 fiery tints which harmonize so happily with the leaf color 



of .\utumii, and they arc among the must \aluable and 

 suitable of wild garden subjects. Fine as are the many 

 tall s;)ecics and varieties of these noble plants there are 

 many smaller ones which, if not so well known, are 

 rapidly coming to the front with us. This is not only be- 

 cause their shorter stature and less bulky growth renders 

 them so suitable for rock-garden and border as well as 

 for the foreground of w'ild garden or woodland group- 

 ings, but it is on account of the brilliaiace of their colors 

 and long season of blossoming. Possessed of such ex- 

 cellent kinds as K. Nelsoni, rufa, corallina, Macowani and 

 a host of others, we can now enjoy the brilliant yellows 

 and reds, the flaming vermilion and crimson and orange 

 tones of these stately little 2-3 foot torch lilies from June 

 to Xoveiuijer, for unlike many of tlie older kinds, the 

 same ]>lants will often yield successive sheaves of bloom 

 spikes the season through. 



1 am tempted to mention one more family of plants 

 wliicl". are of the utmost value in the wild garden, wood- 

 land or unconventional border and that is the genus 

 \erljascum. or the mulleins, as they are familiarly 

 known. There are so many excellent varieties of mulleins 

 new in cultivation that one hardly dares to make com- 

 parisons. Great improvements have been made in both 

 color and form of many varieties from the 18-inch V. 

 phoeniceum m various shades of pur])le and buff to V. 

 olym])icum and parnassum. with their nolile candelabras 

 of large yellow flowers and handsome foliage towering 

 to a height of eight feet or more. There are also some 

 exceedingly lovely kinds of more moderate height in a 

 color usually described as rosy-fawn, and then we have 

 those coppery-apricot shades which are not less pleasing 

 in woodland shade than the citron and ]>rimro.se yellows. 

 These enn'nently stately plants are, for the most part, 

 biennials, but one is ami>ly repaid for the trouble entailed 

 in maintainmg a stock where this is not ensured by self- 

 sown seed. 



IN THE GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE 



(i tiiitiniicd J roDi /'(/.^c 22(li 

 manure we avoid. Fxi)erience has proved to our satis- 

 faction that we get just as quick and a nuich firmer 

 grow'th by weekly sprinklings of Clay's Fertilizer, bone 

 meal, dried blood, and hen manure, during the short 

 days. \\'e use one of the above, each week in rotation, if 

 ]K)ssible. Hen manure we are very careful with. Ixu'ause 

 it throws ofif aiumonia (|uite freely and would soon dam- 

 age the foliage, unless the air circulates freely. A little 

 air on a rose house all night anywav is far better for 

 the plants, if one has sufficient heating radiation. 



In orchid growing, the aim should be to grow the 

 plants with as little shade as possible. W'c have noticed 

 that where this is done the plants flower more freelv 

 and the flowers have more substance to them. .Mo\able 

 shading is by far the best, and after seeing and having 

 had exi)erience with many diiiferent types, I have found 

 that these plants, with the exception of the cool orchids, 

 which rec|uire a heavier shade to keep them cool during 

 the extreme heat of Summer, recpiire shading — double 

 cheesecloth is the best for this ])nrpose. h'.arK- in (he season 

 a single thickness is sufficient, and also after the middle of 

 Sei)tember, if any unusual hoi days come along. Plenty of 

 fresh air is at all seasons in order, and during cold weather 

 it is better for the health of the plants to use m^w fire beat 

 and moisture, rather than ileprive them of ii. 



.See that i)ot fruit trees which are to be forced early 

 get every chance to ripen their fruiting wood. .Str.aw- 

 berry ])lants in pots for forcing next \\'inter must not 

 suffer neglect in any way. Feed and water them regu- 

 larly; tile better the crown the mf)re fruit will result, 

 also better i|uality. which is the aim of the fruit grower. 



