248 



GARDENERS' CHRONICLE 



about |ulv 15. We make this the largest planting of 

 the season, the reason being that during the frosty 

 nights which occur during the Fall, many of the tips 

 of the flower spikes are injured. After a frost we very 

 often have a spell of fine weather, and the plants con- 

 tinue flowering. The few that are nipped are not 

 missed very much. We do not lift this late planting 

 until the stems are ruined by frost, neither do we dig- 

 up the small bulblets that we sowed in a drill in the 

 Spring until the tops are cut down. As a result we 

 very often have cut fairly good Gladioli in November 

 from both of these plantings. With protection they 

 could stay out all Winter without injury. 



Dahlias, as soon as they are blackened by frost, may 

 be cut down and dried. Tie the labels to the bulbs 

 with copper wire for there is less danger of losing 

 them. They winter well in a frost-proof cellar. 



Cannas need a little warmer place to winter in and 

 a somewhat drier atmosphere. In fact, some of the 

 finest and freest flowering Cannas we have grown need 

 to be kept growing all ^^'inter to make sure of a good 

 stock in the Spring. \\'e have had this experience with 

 some of the finest French varieties. 



Any one who is contemplating making a new rose 

 plantation next Spring, oug:ht to have the ground pre- 

 pared now. While roses will grow well in almost any 

 good garden loam, yet if the best results are desired 

 they should be as well treated as any bench of roses 

 indoors. This necessitates good drainage, the best of 

 good sod loam, preferably inclining to clay, and a good 

 mixture of the usual rose manures. The rose plants 

 should be secured now. They can be kept by covering 

 them over with loam outdoors and will be right at 

 hand in Spring. These plants will be in a far better 

 condition to plant than much of the stock one is likely 

 to buy in Spring. I know that Fall planting of roses 

 is advocated by many good growers, but that question, 

 like many others, is debatable. 



Montbretias need protection during the Winter. 

 Though they can be lifted and stored in a cellar where 

 atmospheric conditions are about right, yet the best 

 place for them is in the soil. Cover them well with 

 leaves and if drainage is good they will winter alright. 

 They may be grown in the same ground twt) or three 

 years without lifting. 



Secure a few roots of the choicer herbaceous plants 

 or any that stock is short of. During Winter they may 

 be propagated if kept in a growing condition. 



There will be a great deal of work kee])ing leaves 

 cleaned up about this time. We find that for potting 

 purposes oak and beech leaves are the best and we try 

 to keep them separate from the others as far as pos- 

 sible. Keep the grass mowed until a good stiiif frost 

 stops it from growing, which makes it easier to rake 

 the leaves off the lawn, and in my exjjerience it does 

 the grass no harm, although others tliink otherwise 

 and allow it to grow (|uite long. 



There is still plenty of work in the vegetable garden. 

 Some crops are yet 'to be harvested, which should be 

 done now as f|uickly as possible. The ground should 

 be dug or ploughed before severe frost sets in. Any 

 weeds that have not been taken care of are covered up 

 and will be decayed l>efore next Spring. Trenching of 

 land is now almost jjrohibitive on account of the cost 

 and scarcity of labor. I.ate vegeta1)le rubliish may be 

 decomposed in a heap under cover if jjossible, adding 

 some acid phosphate. Tt will be easier ploughed under 

 in the Spring. Anything in the way of decayed veg- 

 etable matter is now worth saving as organic manures 

 are becoming more scarce every year. 



Cauliflower, with us. lias been of far better qualitv 

 this year than for several years ])ast. During the war. 



seed selection evidently received very little attention, 

 resulting in heads of poor quality. If not all used up 

 before severe frost, they may be heeled in in a deep 

 frame. Water the roots well, but keep the tops dry 

 b}- airing them well during the day; very little loss 

 will result until they are used up. 



Late lettuce and endive does not pay to be lifted 

 from outdoors, a covering of straw or salt hay will 

 take care of them until they are used up. Heads that 

 have developed late in a cold frame if properly aired 

 will last well through the Winter. 



Have a good supply of beets, chicory and Ruta Baga 

 turnips stored in a cool cellar. All these, when forced 

 in a mushroom house temperature make excellent 

 salads during the Winter. 



Do not neglect the asparagus plantation after the 

 tops are cut. If it is on a fairly level piece of ground 

 give it a heavy manuring and dig it in, for it will not 

 leach out. But if it is on a slope, it is better to wait 

 until Spring. Burn tlic tops, as borers are likely to be 

 in them. 



Rhubarli and seakale may he lifted and stored before 

 the ground gets too hard, that is, if forcing of such 

 j>lants is practiced. But always remember that the size 

 of the family to be supplied has to be considered, to- 

 gether with time and facilities. 



IX THE GrEEXHOL'SF. 



In the greenhouse the chief attraction for some time 

 will be the Chrysanthemums, but do not become so 

 enthusiastic over them as to neglect other things. 

 .\ great many details attended to now will determine 

 iiow steady a supply of plants and flowers the green- 

 iiouse will produce during the Winter. The tendency 

 these days is to specialize, which may be alright for 

 a florist, Init never for a private gavdener. The better 

 acquainted a gardener is with a great variety of plants 

 and their cultural requirements, the chances are that 

 he will give more pleasure to the owner. People get 

 just as tired looking at a few genera of plants as they 

 do with food, if it is not supplied in variety. 



The worst pest, after Chrysantliemums are opening 

 their flowers, is red spider, es])eciallv if the green- 

 houses are near trees that are affected. On a hot day, 

 with quite a breeze blowing and ventilators all open, 

 in they come. Very little can be done with a case of 

 this kind, as syringing will lie sure to hurt the petals. 

 Keep them thoroughlx' clean until the\' show color. 

 Look out for the ventilator on the windy side and keep 

 it closed. Do all watering in the earl\- jiart of the 

 day as an excess of moistttre is also bad for oj^ening 

 flowers. Withhold food as soon as the petals begin to 

 unfold, as by this lime there will l>e sufficient in the 

 jiots to carry them through to conqilction. Take note 

 of all uniksirahle varieties while they are in flower. 

 .\ttend the exhibitions and form your own o])inions 

 about the newer ones as far as one can determine by 

 observation. 



Have a good stock in ^niall pol> of the usual annuals 

 that are used for forcing. There are (|uite a nunilier 

 of good things as yet untried to any extent here for 

 \N'inter forcing, which do well in a temperature ;iround 

 50 degrees in our clear \Mnter sunshine. I'lu' heat 

 outdoors in Summer is too unicli for tluni. but llT,ey 

 thrive well in the Chrysanthemum house, giving va- 

 riety for cut flowers, aside from the usual standbys 

 such as carnations and roses. 



Cf)ol hardwood plants from now on need to be more 

 carefully watered, and if possible, rain water sliould be 

 used for them. I have urged tlie use of rain water 

 before in greenhouse watering, as its use cannot be 

 enii)hasi/ed too strongly. Anyone who has not used 



