June 17, 1916 



HORTICULTURE 



NOTES ON CULTURE OF FLORISTS' STOCK 



CONDCCTSD BT 



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luesUoni by our readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly «n«w«red| 

 by Mr. Farrell. Such communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HOHTICULTDBB. 

 "It vain oDr toil, we ooffbt to blame the coitnre, not the soil." — Pope. 



Asparagus plumosus 



Xow is the time for reuewing beds and to giTe those 

 that are to be carried over a top-dressing of cow manure 

 and soil with a sprinkling of bnne meal. When making 

 new beds give plenty of headroom — at least 13 feet. 

 The beds or benches should bo prepared as soon as pos- 

 sible. Above all things see that they have a generous 

 soil to grow in — say two parts fibrous loam and one 

 part manure. A layer of eight or nine inches of this 

 compost is none too much for asparagus. The plants 

 should be set 10 to 1"2 inches apart and 16 to 18 inches 

 between the rows. Thrifty plants, out of 4-inch pots, 

 are the right sort to use. Syringe frequently ancl see 

 they are kept moist around the roots. 



Decorative Plants 



A little attention to spacing and sorting into different 

 grades and sizes at frequent intervals will be time well 



just enough 

 Abundant 

 Plants that 

 now be re- 

 a thorough 



spent. See that spading is not too den; 

 to cause a hazy light through the plants, 

 ventilation should therefore be in order, 

 have become excessively rootbound should 

 potted. Infested plants should be given 

 cleaning, and sponging, even if not just needed, will be 

 of great benefit. Plants of this class yet on parade in 

 overcrowded show house or narrow quarters should be 

 spread apart, wliile room in other houses is now unoccu- 

 pied. 



Gladioli 



Plantings are made once a fortnight until the middle 

 of July in order to insure a constant succession of flow- 

 ers. The earliest outdoor planting should now be well 

 above ground and have had one cultivation. The bulbs 

 are set at an average depth of six inches. This keeps 

 the stems more rigid in rain and wind stonns. In dry 

 weather give weekly waterings and it is well to plant a 



Next week — .\tliantiims ; Violets; Cinera 



batch where the water is handy which can be forced in 

 ahead of the others. Make use of a deeply cultivated 

 soil. You can plant in double rows about 6 inches apart 

 and place the stakes between them. 



Rambler Roses 



Copious watering and daily heavy syringings must be 

 given the rambler roses. We often get ouir hottest 

 weather up to the middle of July, and if the tender and 

 unripened shoots suffer for water mildew will set in, 

 which much weakens the growth and the strength of 

 the eyes which will now be forming and from these will 

 come the trusses of blooms next spring. Ramblers 

 grown in pots under glass during summer, by having 

 the pots plunged in a bench where there is some soil will 

 retain the moisture better and by the end of August will 

 have made all the growth desirable and can then be stood 

 outdoors to ripen their wood. After this period they 

 will not want so much water. 



Sowing Perennials 



Seed sown up to the middle of July will make nice 

 strong plants by the fall. Now that bedding plants are 

 all planted out there will be plenty of room in the 

 frames. Give the soil a coating of manure and dig it 

 over well, breaking all the lumps and raking fine. Draw 

 shallow rows up and down the frame about six inches 

 apart and sow the seed and press the surface over moder- 

 ately firm. Never let them dry out; evaporation is 

 great at this time. After watering keep them shaded 

 until they start to gemiinate. Keep them well cultiva- 

 ed and when the seedlings have progressed so they can 

 be handled, transplant to other quarters. 



Shading Ferns and Palms 



Now is the time to watch ferns and palms in the way 

 of shading. Just give enough of shade to make them 

 hold their color and keep them from burning. 



rias; Orchids; Gardenias; Pelargoniums. 



Stem Rot in Paeonies 



Editor Horticulture. 



Dear Sir. — I would like to know if some of your kind 

 readers could tell me wliat is the cause of the stem rot 

 of paeonies. The stalks rot at the surface of the soil. 

 Also what is a cure of the same? 



Respectfully yours, E. J. B. 



The stem rot in paeonies is caused by a fungus. It is 

 distributed by the wind. It causes the stem or bud, or 

 leaves sometimes to turn a yellow brown and decay. No 

 one knows the way to combat it, as yet. I cut the stem 



off just below the surface of the ground and nut it 



where it will tlo no further harm. Cut the buds off if 

 affected, and destroy them also. I have had plants so 

 affected be clear of it the next year. But it is said it 

 will live over winter on old affected stalks. It is best to 

 bui-ii up all affected paiis if one can. 



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