September 6, 1919 



HORTICULTURE 



215 



CHANGES AMONG GARDENERS. 



William Robertson, late with J. W. 

 Pepper, Jenkintown, has been ap- 

 pointed superintendent on the estate 

 of George H. McFadden, Villa Nova, 

 Pa. The McFadden place is quite ex- 

 tensive and one of the most beautiful 

 country residences along the main 

 line. 



Harold N. Bryant, formerly garden- 

 er on the C. Crane estate, Dalton, 

 Mass., has become gardener on the 

 George M. Hendee estate, Springfield, 

 Mass., where he will assume his duties 

 on September 1. 



Herbert Brown, who, previous to en- 

 tering the service, was gardener to A. 

 M. Lindsay, Rochester, N. Y., has ac- 

 cepted the position of gardener on the 

 Edwin Thome estate, Babylon, L. I. 



John Alexander, lately superinten- 

 dent of the Charles M. Daniels' estate, 

 Sabattis Park, N. Y., is now superin- 

 tendent of the Daniel Tatum estate, 

 Glen Cove, L. I. 



William Ellings, just back from 

 service in France and prior to that as- 

 sistant gardener on the George F. 

 Baker estate, Tuxedo Park, N. Y., has 

 taken a position as gardener on the 

 Colgate Hoyt estate, Centre Island. 

 Oyster Bay, N. Y. 



John T. Whittaker, formerly garden- 

 er to William F. Sellers, Edge Moore, 

 Del., is now gardener to W. Hinckle 

 Smith, Bryn Mawr, Pa. 



A NEW ARBORETUM MAGAZINE. 

 No. 1, Vol. I. of the Journal of the 

 Arboretum is now being distributed. 

 This is a new publication to be issued 

 quarterly and will be edited by the 

 director of the Arboretum. As Profes- 

 sor Sargent says in his introduction, 

 the Arboretum has had no organ on 

 which it could depend to publish with- 

 in a reasonable time the material 

 which is gathered in its laboratory 

 since the discontinuance of Garden 

 and Forest. The new publication is 

 issued to overcome this difficulty. In 

 its pages will appear notes on trees 

 and shrubs, with descriptions of the 

 new species and their relationships, 

 letters from correspondents and notes 

 on the vegetation of the countries vis- 

 ited by officers and agents of the Ar- 

 boretum. In the Journal of the Arbor- 

 etum will appear also such items of 

 news about the institution, its library, 

 collections and projects as will inter- 

 est botanists, horticulturists and other 

 friends. The current number includes 

 the following articles: 



"Notes on American Willows," by 

 Camillo Schneider. 



"A Phytogeographical Sketch of the 

 Ligneous Flora of Korea," by Ernest 

 H. Wilson. 



"New Species, Varieties and Com- 

 binations from the Herbarium and 

 'Collections in the Arnold Arboretum," 

 by Alfred Rehder. 



"Notes on American Trees," by 

 Charles S. Sargent. 



It is a matter of satisfaction to 

 learn that the new publication will 

 not result in the discontinuance of 

 the bulletins of popular information, 

 which -will be issued as usual each 

 spring and fall. The Journal will be 

 more technical in character, and will 

 appeal more directly to horticulture 

 experts and institutions engaged in 

 horticultural research. The subscrip- 

 tion price is $3 a year, wcith a charge 

 of $1 for each single copy. 



GLOBE OR FRENCH ARTICHOKES. 



This very desirable vegetable is not 

 so extensively grown as it should be. 

 In fact, it is seemingly but very little 

 known, writes S. W. Carlquist, in the 

 Journal of the International Garden 

 Club. The larger and best kinds are 

 not hardy, that is, they will not readily 

 winter over if left outside during win- 

 ter, even with the most careful pro- 

 tection. To raise the plants from seeds 

 every year is not very satisfactory as 

 the seedling plants seldom come to ma- 

 turity the first year and in a batch of 

 seedlings there will always be a num- 

 ber of inferior and useless plants. The 

 best way to produce fine large heads 

 Is to grow new plants every year from 

 suckers, or sideshoot cuttings. If 

 young plants of the large variety can- 

 not be obtained to start with the first 

 year one must of course start with 

 seedling plants and select from these 

 the best plants for further propagation. 



Sow the seeds early in January, pot 

 up the small plants singly in 2 inch 

 pots and grow near to the glass in a 

 temperature of 60 to 65 degrees, giving 

 the plants a shift into larger pots as 

 required. Towards spring they will 

 occupy 7 to 9 inch pots and the plants 

 should then be thoroughly hardened 

 off. They should be planted out in a 

 deep rich soil as soon as danger of 

 severe frost is past. Give the plants 

 at least three feet of room each way 

 As the plants come to maturity select 

 such of those as produce the largest 

 and finest heads and mark for further 



propagation. In the fall, before heavy 

 frost sets in, dig up these selected 

 plants, cutting back the foliage and 

 some of the larger roots and pot up 

 into large pots, tubs or boxes. 



Keep the plants during winter in a 

 cool but frost-free place. In February 

 take up as many of the plants as will 

 be needed for the first batch of cut- 

 tings, shake out all the soil from the 

 roots when it will be found that a num- 

 ber of suckers have formed at the base 

 of previous year's flowerstalk. Pull 

 off these shoots, leaving on any small 

 roots which may be formed on them 

 Pot up these shoots or cuttings into 

 small pots, using a sandy soil, water 

 well and place in a warm house, keep- 

 ing the plants shaded and free from 

 draft for a few days or until rooted. 

 Repot into larger pots as will be re- 

 quired and handle the plants as de- 

 scribed for seedlings. By taking two 

 or more batches of cuttings at differ- 

 ent times, one may have a continuous 

 crop of this vegetable from July until 

 late fall. It will be found that every 

 plant grown from a cutting will bear 

 the first season and if one has selected 

 a good strain to propagate from and 

 the plants are given a good rich deep 

 well prepared ground to grow in, some 

 extraordinarily fine large artichokes 

 will be produced. The heads should 

 be cut for use as soon as they are well 

 formed, but before they begin to open 

 in the center. If not used at once they 

 will keep a long time after being cut. 

 by keeping them in an icebox or other 

 cool and dark place. If left too long 

 on the plants they will become stringy 

 and lose much of their fine flavor. 



SULPHUR BENEFICIAL TO PLANT 

 LIFE. 



From remote ages sulphur has been 

 known to be beneficial to plant life, 

 not only as a partial insecticide and 

 fungicide when combined with lime or 

 a preventive of some fungus parasitis 

 when applied in the dry powdered 

 form to various plants and their fruits. 



Perhaps the most beneficial results 

 received from sulphur as a preventive 

 and fungicide in the last half of the 

 19th century was the old English 

 method of mixing 8 parts of sulphur to 

 2 parts of lime with sufficient water to 

 make it the consistency of thick paint. 

 This mixture was applied to the warm 

 flues; then, later on, to the warm 

 water pipes in the greenhouses. The 

 sulphurous gases from this mixture 

 acted as a moderately safe fungicide. 



