132 



THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 



best being from Japan, but none of them have nuts of 

 much value because of their thick shells and the diffi- 

 culty in most cases of getting out the meats, although 

 the flavor is delicious. Juglans cordiformis is the best, 

 although not the largest of them. J. Seiboldi and T- 

 Manchurica both make large and umbrageous trees 

 and are very useful where shade trees are desired. All 

 are reasonably hardy. 



We have several American walnuts that make ma- 

 jestic trees, and their nuts are of e.xcellent qualitv. 

 The most conspicuous species is Juglans nigra, the 

 common black walnut, and in stateliness and vigor of 

 trees it excels all of the genus. While the flavor of its 

 nuts is always good there are some of especial merit in 

 this respect, and also in size of nut, plumpness of kernel 

 and ease of extraction. A very few such have been 

 brought to notice and will be propagated in due time. 



The butternut, or Juglans cinerea, is another of our 

 native walnuts that has very richly flavored nuts, but 

 the shells are very rough and thick. If this species was 

 crossed with J. regia the resulting hybrids would prob- 

 ably be of much value because of the hardiness of tree 

 and superior flavor of the nuts. 



THE PERSIAN CYCLAMEN AS A BIENNIAL. 



After numerous experiments during the last twentv- 

 five years, I have proved, to my own satisfaction at all 

 events, writes C. Blair in The Garden, that bv far the 

 best results with this grand plant are to be had" by treat- 

 ing it as a biennial. I am aware that numbers of good 

 gardeners disagree with this, holding that it is impossible 

 to have really fine plants by this method. I am satisfied 

 in my own mind, however, that with proi)er treatment 

 quite large plants can be had in beautiful bloom fifteen or 

 sixteen months after the seeds are sown. These easily 

 beat the best old plants for size and substance of flower, 

 while they also bloom for a longer period. Being verv 

 successful with this almost indispensable winter and 

 spring flowering plant, perhaps a few notes on how I 

 manage to obtain these satisfactory results may be of 

 interest to others who admire the Persian Cyclamen. 



In most cases seeds are sown at too late a date. Num- 

 bers of seed catalogues say that from October to March 

 is the proper time. This may be well enough where a 

 house can be devoted entirely to this plant, but for ordi- 

 nary mixed culture it is much too late. I have always 

 had the results by sowing from .\ugust 9 to 15. 



Select fairly deep and perfectly clean seed-pans, those 

 about nine inches in diameter being very handy. Crock 

 with great care, and place some of the rough riddlings 

 from the soil over the drainage. The soil should be a 

 nice light, but fairly substantial mixture of three parts 

 fibrous loam, one part flaky peat, one and a half parts 

 sweet leaf-mould, and one part rather coarse, sharp sand. 

 The addition of about half a part of crushed charcoal is a 

 great help, as it keeps the compost sweet. Pass all 

 through a half-inch riddle and mix thoroughly. Fill the 

 pans to within about an inch of the tops, and make 

 moderately firm and quite level. Scatter the seeds verv 

 thinly and evenly, and press down gentlv with a flat 

 piece of board. Sieve a little of the soil and cover to a 

 depth of about an eighth of an inch. Water carefully 

 either by plunging in a bucket of tepid water or by using 

 a very fine rose on the watering-can. Cover each pan 

 with a sheet of glass, and the glass with thick brown 

 paper or damp moss. Place in an intermediate tempera- 

 ture, and in about three weeks' time the first of the seed- 

 lings will be peeping through. 



As soon as growth appears, remove the paper, but 

 shade carefullv from all sunshine. After all the seeds 



of the choicest flowers not only perpetuates these colors 

 have germinated, gradually remove the glass and get the 

 pans set up on a shelf quite close to the roof glass. Here 

 they should be kept all the winter, attending to them very 

 carefully with water, but also taking care not to sour the 

 soil by too frequent applications. 



It is a mistake to attempt this too soon. Experience 

 has shown me that February is early enough, and by 

 then each little plant should have four leaves. Two-inch 

 pots should be used, and these should be crocked with 

 three or four small pieces of charcoal. A mixture similar 

 to that advised for seed-sowing is suitable. Pot lightly 

 and leave half of the little bulb above the surface, water, 

 and return to the same temperature, shading carefully. 

 Sprinkle gently overhead twice daily from the time of 

 pricking off until September. 



As growth starts in earnest, remove to a slightlv lower 

 temperature, and when the little pots are fairly well filled 

 with roots (they must not be pot-bound), shift into 

 larger pots. The very strongest may be allowed the 

 4-inch size, the others 3-inch or 33/2-inch, according to 

 strength. Use much the same compost, only a little 

 more peat may be given, also a 5-inch potful of bone- 

 meal and the same of Ichtemic Guano to the barrow- 

 load of soil. Again pot lightly. 



As the weather improves, admit air in increased vol- 

 ume and pay great attention to watering. Shade from 

 all sunshine is imperative, as is the sprinkling overhead. 

 Some good growers advise removing the plants to a 

 cold frame during the summer ; but, personally, I prefer 

 a greenhouse stage. Tomatoes on the roof, not too thick- 

 ly planted, afford the proper shade, and under these con- 

 ditions the plants are always under the eye and thrive 

 beautifully. 



For the strongest plants provide perfectly clean 6-inch 

 pots. For the medium specimens tlie 5Vj-inch size, and 

 for the weaker ones 5-inch pots are best. The soil should 

 consist of three parts best fibrous loam, two parts best 

 fibrous brown peat, one and a half parts of sweet, flaky 

 leaf-mould, and sufficient coarse sand to keep all sweet. 

 Crushed charcoal may with advantage be added, while 

 a 6-inch potful of bonenieal and a 5-inch potful of Thom- 

 son's Plant Manure or Ichthemic Guano must be allowed 

 to each barro-load of the other ingredients. Use in a 

 fairly rough state, as the idea is to provide a nice 

 "springy" compost. Crock the pots with e.xtra care and 

 again pot lightly, keeping the bulbs half their depth out 

 of the soil. Water carefully and keep rather close for a 

 few days. As soon as the pots are well filled with roots, 

 feed about twice a week with weak liquid manure and 

 soot-water. .\ tablespoonful of Ichthemic ('luano in a 

 gallon of water is one of the best stimulants it is possible 

 to have for the C_\clamen. A'aporise occasionally to keep 

 down green fly and thrip, and in due course a fine display 

 will be the reward for anv little trouble incurred. 



GLOXINIAS FROM SEED. 



Gloxinias may be had in bloom almost all the year by 

 judicious management. When required for early flower- 

 ing those that start first should be selected, carefully 

 shifted into other pots and be kept near the glass as they 

 depend much on light for a rapid and luxuriant growth. 



Gloxinias can be flowered in the most satisfactory 

 manner within six months from seed, writes H. F. East 

 in Canadian Florist. Hence there is no longer the least 

 temptation to propagate these plants by the lengthy and 

 troublesome method formerly in vogue, especially as 

 seedlings raised from a reliable strain produce flowers 

 of the finest quality, both as to shape and style of growth. 

 One great advantage to be obtained from seedlings is an 



