THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 



209 



EREMURI IN SHRUBBERY. 



To what advantage the £i;iant Eremuri may be planted 

 in the shrubbery and its adjacent parts is well shown in 

 the accompanying illustration reproduced from a photo- 

 grai)h taken at Kew in the earlv summer of the present 

 year. The etifects of a thin natural grouping as opposed 

 to overcrowding is so well sliown in the figure that little 

 need be said on that point, though attention might well 

 be drawn to the foil of trees, which assists to mirror into 

 greater life and beauty the subject portrayed. In all 

 these directions the illustration tells its own tale. 



Another important lesson, equally obvious to the spe- 

 cialist if not to the ordinary gardener, writes E. H. Jen- 

 kins in Gardeiiiiii:; Illustrated, is the shelter the shrubs 

 afford for the Eremuri during the s])ring months. It is 

 quite well known, of course, that these plants when start- 

 ing into growth early in the year are at times liable to be 

 injured by late frosts, hence the value of some such pro- 

 tection as that shown, (|uite apart from the picture-mak- 

 ing effects such associations give to the landscape. Doubt- 

 less, similarly suitable positions could be found in many 

 gardens, and by arranging the [plants on the southwestern 

 side of shrub groups protecting them from the Ijiting 

 winds of spring which are as dangerous and disfiguring 

 as the frosts. The noblest of these Eremuri. as e. g., E. 

 robustus, E. r. Elewesianus, and E. himalaicus, grow, 

 when established, a great height, the first two being from 

 6 feet to 10 feet, or occasionally 11 feet, high, the last 

 from 5 feet to 8 feet high. In the first-named the color 

 is palest pink or fiesh, in that last-named purest white, 

 hence a Holly or something akin makes a good foil. 



Their root-vigor, too, is proportionate to their imposing 

 stature, as witness the rope-like thongs which, like the 

 spokes of a cart-wheel, extend to several feet from the 

 central crown. Hence, preparation of the soil might well 

 extend to several feet, while spade or fork work should 

 be dispended with in the immediate vicinity of the plants. 

 W'itli such as Hungei (yellow), Shelford (bronzy yel- 

 low), Warei (salmon), and others, a less vigorous root- 

 system prevails, with more stay-at-home and pliant root- 

 fibres, hence for these soil preparation should be restrict- 

 ed accordingly. Those like Shelford and Warei, posses- 

 sing bronze and salmon shades, and which, starting later 

 into growth, require less protection from frost, are seen 

 to the best advantage with the sun upon them. The best 

 planting season for these Eremuri is Se|)tember and Oc- 

 tober, and while all may be inserteil 6 inches below the 

 surface, it might be well to remark of such vigorous sorts 

 as E. robustus that the plants occasionally force them- 

 selves to the surface, leaving a vacuum immediately be- 

 low the crown. This upward movement is probably as 

 much due to the peculiar crown-upon-crown formation' 

 which goes on year after year as to great vigor, and is 

 not very apparent unless the examples are of excei)tional' 

 strength, or have been some years in position. When it 

 occurs, lifting and replanting are the only remedy. 



E. H. Jenkins. 



From Gardening Illustrated, 

 EREMl'Rl'S ROnu.STUS .^MONG SHRUBS IN THE ROYAL 

 (;.\RDEN, KEW, ENGL.^ND. 



HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL PLANTS. 



\'<\ J. JollXSnX. 



Thougli the spring months are considered by some to 

 be the best season in which to prepare and rearrange the 

 borders and to plant out hardy perennials I believe that 

 the work could be even more effectively carried out at 

 this season. It is an advantage if the roots can be started 

 in the fresh soil in autumn while the ground still retains 

 some of the summer's heat and the plants become es- 

 tablished before severe frost sets in. The colors and habits 

 of the plants being still fresh and vivid in the memory 

 rearrangement can be done with half the trouble, and as 

 the pressure of work in other departments is not so great 

 at this season as in the spring montlis planting might be 

 done more satisfactorily now than if deferred. 



Generally speaking perennial flower borders benefit by 

 being overhauled at intervals of three years, and on each 

 occasion the ground requires to be deeply dug, or better 

 still, trenched. .\t the same time a heavy dressing of 

 farmyard manure shoukl be given together with a light 

 dressing of bone meal. The plants are usually gross 

 feeders and readily respond to a.deepl}' worked and well 

 prepared rooting medium. When planing the arrange- 

 ment it is well to remember that though hardy perennial' 

 plants ]3redominate this class of plant should not be 

 grown exclusively if the best possible display of flowers 

 be required over an extended period. While it is true 

 that a selection of j)erennial plants could I)e made that 

 would furnish flower from early spring until late fall, I 

 think better results are obtainable by the introduction of 

 some of the best half-hardy and annual bedding plants. 

 These latter plants usually continue in flower montlis at a 

 ^tretch while manv of the most handsome perennials last 

 but a few weeks. 



In gardens where several such borders exist the object 

 should be to avoid a sameness of things. Many gardens 

 resplendent with borders of mixed hard\- ])lants are too 

 frequently disappointing because one border is typical 

 only of its neighbor. The best gardeners avoid stereo- 

 t\])ed methods of planting even to the extent of not using 

 tiie same kind of jilants in different borders, and in this 

 way gardens become what they should l)c — gardens of 

 interest. 



