The Perennial Garden: 



The most beautifully w r. i\i_i;lii heddiiig plant scheme 

 cannot compare with a well-dcsig^ned perennial gar- 

 den, with its daily sur])rises and new faces to welcome 

 us. One week it is a riot of color and the next some- 

 thing different. It presents an ever-changing succes- 

 sion, commencing before the winter snows have melt- 

 ed, until Jack Frost calls a halt in the fall. This is 

 one reason why we should grow more of this class of 

 ])lants. Another reason is that they till the bill in ev- 

 ery size of a garden, from the cai)acity of a few dozen, 

 for the cottage, to the broad acres of the millionaires. 



The ]jreparation of the soil for a planting of peren- 

 nials should be most thorough in every detail, if we 

 e.xpect results that shall excell. The work shciuld be 

 of a ])ermanent character. The plan that I have .gen- 

 erally ado]ned I find works well. 



Prepare the beds in the fall by trenching or digging- 

 two spades deep. This breaks up the sub-soil. It 

 should be dug and left in a rough condition, at the 

 same time incorporating plenty of good rotten ma- 

 nure, or half-rotted leaves, or both, if the soil is very 

 heavy. This makes the best medium for growing 

 ])erennials. Give a good ajiplication of charcoal, peat 

 moss, fibre or better still, ])lenty of good, tough sod. 

 These materials will act as mechanical agents to the 

 soil, as well as give fertility, and at the same time will 

 tend to increase its effectiveness as a drouth resister, 

 and a storehouse for plant food for many years. 



Deep cultivation is very essential as many of our 

 best perennials are deep-rooting; for example, the 

 Leguminose, Malvacpe, Cam])anulas, and many others. 

 Nothing suits them better than to get down to the 

 cool reservoirs of moisture and air spaces during the 

 parching months of July and August. The extra trou- 

 ble of deep cultivation will be amjily repaid in the ex- 

 tra <|uantity and quality of the flowers. In addition 

 they will require less attention as to watering, etc., 

 especially if we have to depend on the rainfall. Trench- 

 ing not only opens up the soil and allows freedom of 

 root action, but also drains the soil in winter, and ren- 

 ilers it moist in summer. The action on the pores of 

 the soil is similar to the action of warm air in contact 

 with a cooler surface or body. 



If the ground is of a very sandy nature it is Ijetter 

 to neutralize it by the action of cow manure (if pro- 

 curable). Heavy clay loam with the sod left on is 

 l)referal)le. Wood ashes or lime applied at the time 

 of preparation is also good, as it has a binding effect 

 on the soil, and being very "leachy," heavy mulching 

 at all times is necessary for the best success. In sum- 

 mer it ])revents too rajiid evaporation and provides a 

 constant stinndus. It acts also as a iirotectinn in 

 winter. 



I am rather in favor of nitrogenous manures for 

 perennials, especially in the growing uf the heavier 

 varieties, although it is necessary t<i gi\e a liberal 

 dressing of bone meal or granulated bone annually, as 

 leguminous and woody ])lants depend on the lime salts 

 and phosphoric acid contained therein. On the other 

 hand, there are some plants that do not like lime, e. g., 

 the Foxglove, but they are few in number. 



There are two general methods in the planting of a 

 perennial garden. The first is by arrangement of col- 

 ors for certain sections or divisions. Of course in each 

 case the aim is to have continuity of bloom for the en- 

 tire season, so arrange the height, natural position, 

 etc. This method might suit those who are partial to 



*Extract from a paper read at the recent annual convention of The 

 Canadian Horticultural Association by W. J. Potter, Parks Department, 

 Toronto, Ont. 



certain colors and shades and is easily accomplisheil. 

 Color planting is more suitable for large gardens, 

 where the eye rests on the whole, or greater part of the 

 scheme. It also includes the choice and use of two 

 colors or combinations, such as pink and blue (light), 

 cream and purple, golden yellow and deej) blue, or 

 orange and medium blue ; or a gradual blending down 

 from an ^ intense color, using several intermediate 

 shades. The yellow and orange shades always look 

 well and if separated in good generous blocks, cannot 

 help but be effective. Blocks of white flowers or green 

 ornamental foliage will act as a foil where it is neces- 

 sary to use strong colors in heavy masses, reds and 

 scarlets for example, that is if both meet the eve at the 

 same time_._ The blue delphiniums, white and pink hol- 

 lyhocks aft'ord an example of good tones, but keep the 

 reds and maroons away. Gypsophila and purple del- 

 lihinium form an aesthetic combination. Place Golden 

 Coreopsis against heavy foliage and deep shadows. 

 Plant Foxgloves among an underground of dwarfer 

 material or among evergreens in groups. The com- 

 posite flowers oft'er many delightful combinations. 

 One cannot err in their use as the colors, for the most 

 part, can be called relative or harmonious. Examples 

 include Heliopsis and Callimeris incisa, Stokesia and 

 Shasta daisy. These can be used also with Golden Au- 

 themis. Rudbeckia purpurea and Rudbeckia fulgida or 

 subtomentosa harmonize, and so on "ad infinitum." 



Collections of phlox show oft' to much advantage if 

 separated as to color, the scarlets from the magentas 

 and the pinks from the purjiles. Use the white forms 

 between. 



The second method of planting may appeal to those 

 who want to form collections without regard to color 

 arrangements. If so, use plenty of green foliage as a 

 foil and background. This method is the planting of 

 each genera or family in separate masses or irregular 

 bays in conformity with the size and shape of that ])or- 

 tion of the bed to be planted. When following this 

 method, make a sketch or drawing to scale and have 

 the framework laid out first with the space allotted to 

 each group. Then plant evergreen shrubs at vantage 

 ])oints. These not only act as foils to certain colors 

 and forms, but also afford shelter in winter from cut- 

 ting winds and in summer from hot sun for shade 

 loving plants. 



There are many genera which will thus make a con- 

 tinuous show of bloom by judicious placing and the 

 use of the proportionate number. Take veronica, for 

 example. The first one blooms in the spring, and so 

 nn till fall, without a blank. Phlox are the same, start- 

 ing with P. iiwita, anil folhiwed by Arendsi, suft'ruti- 

 cosa, and decussata, giving an unending succession till 

 October. Rudbeckia, helianthus, sj^iraea, aconitum, 

 campanula, helenium. inula. ])entstemon, lychnis, ' lil- 

 iuni, aquilegia, gypsojjhila and many other families not 

 including continuous bloomers, can be used in this way. 

 If by chance there haj^pens to be any blank spaces, any 

 of the continuous bloomers in the list fills the bill. 



Propagation may be done in a number of ways. The 

 most generally adopted method is by seeds. These 

 should be sown early enough to form good strong 

 |)lants bv October so as to enable them to stand the 

 winter. About June will usually suffice for many. I 

 prefer sowing most everything in the s])ring, as it 

 takes a long time for many to form good crowns, and 

 it is better to err on the side of size than lose your 

 stock through the winter. Phlox are better sown in 

 (Confiiiiicd on pat^e 400) 



