408 



THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 



shciuld be dune so tliat the plants assume a natural ap- 

 pearance. Raise them close up to the glass, by erect- 

 ing a temporary bench on top of the permanent one 

 if it be low, or by means of invented pots. The shad- 

 ing may be reduced from nciw on and the plants grad- 

 ually inured to full sun. Fumigate to keep green fly 

 and thrips under control. A layer of tobacco stems 

 between and under the plants does much to keep in- 

 sects away. X'entilate carefully now that we are run- 

 ning into shorter and cooler days. The temperature 

 should not go below 55 degrees nor exceed 70 degrees 

 at night. 



MISCELLANEOUS TLAXTS. 



Poinsettias should be kept in a minimum tempera- 

 ture of 60 degrees at night to prevent loss of foliage. 

 Cinerarias and Primulas should be potted on as they 

 require it. Lilium formosum may be potted now. 

 Stocks of the various bedding plants should be pre- 

 pared. Bellis perennis, Mysotis, Pansies and other 

 perennials still in the seed bed may be transplanted 

 into cold frames. 



FRUIT CULTURE IN POTS. 

 By W. R. Fowkes, Nev^r York 



Fruit culture in pots is a very interesting occupation 

 and also a very satisfactory way of obtaining fruit where 

 no regular fruit or orchard house is employed. The 

 present is an opportune time for the gardener to prepare 

 for this addition to their houses in winter. In many large 

 places these plants are grown as ornamentals to beautify 

 the dining room and to allow the guests to take off the 

 ripe fruit themselves. 



But I am penning this article for an average, or 

 smaller place with limited glass room. The cost is small. 

 The thing to do now is to order some peach and nectarine 

 trees three years old. They can be procured from any 

 first class lun-sery, a list of which is to be found each 

 month in the Chronicle's advertising columns. 



When received, shake a goodl\- portion of the old soil 

 from the ball and repot into the same size, or not more 

 tlian an inch shift if possible. The trees usually arrive 

 in nine or ten inch pots. Pots nuist be clean. Drainage 

 is important. Place a large crock or tile over each hole 

 and fill up with two inches of coal cinders, or mortar 

 rubble if it is to be had. The jjroper soil is a rough sod. 

 which if efficient in lime must have a good sprinkling 

 thrown in when compost is mixed, one-fourth well rotted 

 manure and a six-inch pot of wood ashes to every barrel 

 load of loam being all that is necessary. Pot with > our 

 soil in a medium condition and make the whole firm and 

 finish off level leaving two inches for water. 



After potting, place in a cool shed with air all the time. 

 Give a thorough soaking of water at the roots. \\"hen 

 frost comes protect the pots with sufficient straw and 

 leaves to protect the pots from cracking. Frost will not 

 hurt the plants, but will do them good and if no cool 

 shed or cellar is to be had they can remain outdoors, the 

 pots requiring a much heavier protection of straw which 

 must not be put on until they are frozen sufficiently to 

 exclude mice, which will do harm to the bark of the trees. 



The next step is when to start to force them. To begin 

 with, they should be brought into a coo! house of any 

 description, providing it is light and airy. Thev must, 

 however, now be studied and not sacrificed to grow lilies. 

 etc., but mums that are needed for cuttings, roses in pots 

 needed for Easter and hydranges can be handled to- 

 gether. The temperature must not exceed 34 degs. Fahr. 

 to commence with and if started the latter part of De- 



cember, or even in January, they can be kept for two 

 weeks in that temperature. Give a good watering at the 

 roots, also spray every portion with aphine as a pre- 

 ventive of scale and other pests. This is very important — 

 only use sufficient heat to keep from freezing. On bright 

 days syringe to enable the buds to lump up and swell. 

 In a few weeks they will burst into bloom and thev must 

 receive as much ventilation with discretion as possible ; 

 also keep the house a little drier, lint on no account al- 

 low dr_\ness at the roots, or much will lie lost. A higher 

 temperature can be maintained but must not exceed 52 

 degs. Fahr. at ni.ght. A successful setting depends now 

 on careful watering, also fertilizing the flowers which 

 had better be gone over daily with a camels hair brush ; 

 but bees are the best fertilizers and should be encouraged 

 by brin,ging to the house a few pots of freesias, hyacinths 

 or wallflowers in bloom. When a good set has taken 

 place, clean off all dead blooms from the fruit and syringe 

 very gently to enable the growths to develop and the 

 fruit. The house can be .syringed at 2 p. m. and closed 

 down, giving a little air on the lee side at 5:30 p. m.; 

 still be careful not to overheat at ni,ght. 



As the fruit develo]3S rapidly more water can be given 

 and a humid atmosphere kejjt up to prevent red spider. 



It is in the next period that the crop can be secured 

 or lost. Xamely, the stoning period. The stone begins 

 to form when fruits are size of an English Walnut and 

 foi' a short time a check, almost a standstill, is given to 

 the plant, and this is the important time and one that 

 must be religiouslv observed, namely, the temperature, 

 watering and ventilating nuist be kept as even as pos- 

 sible. 



^^'hen stoning is past, all undeveloped fruits can be 

 picked oft', also a few that crowd each other. A closer 

 atmosphere with good thorough syringing noon and af- 

 ternoon can be given. The young shoots which form 

 next \ear's crop nuist be selected and others rubbed out 

 with the thumb and fin,ger. 



When the growth retained has grown about seven 

 inches the point must be taken out. At this time, with 

 the tree carrying fruit, the leaves will sometimes assume 

 a pale green or sickly appearance. This denotes a lack 

 of iron in the soil, which can be remedied by giving a 

 waterin.g of sulphate of iron once weekly — one ounce to 

 the .gallon of water. If surface roots become exposed, 

 give a top dressing of good soil similar to what the plants 

 are in. A sprinkling of bone meal and wood ashes will 

 help to finish the size of the fruit, which treatment must 

 be discontinued directly the fruit shows color. \\'hen 

 the fruit is ripe the houses must be kept cooler and drier. 



\'arieties can be grown together in the same house. 

 A good nurseryman will supply you with suitable kinds 

 for the purpose. 



THE HERBACEOUS PHLOXES. 



( Coiitiuticd from page 406.) 



both of which are objectionable whenever they can well be 

 dispensed with. Hardly any of either one or the other 

 is necessarv with the dwarfer kinds when the shoots are 

 not drawn up weaklv, but the taller varieties do certainly 

 require some support. This should be given them in 

 good time before the shoots incline outwards from the 

 perpendicular. 



These Phloxes are very useful for cuttin.g. looking 

 well when arran.ged by themselves, two or three colors 

 together. The faint but delightful fragrance of the 

 flowers can hardly be found fault with by the most sen- 

 sitive in this respect, whilst they last for several days in 



