288 



THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE OF AMERICA. 



in several ways: 1. If tlie conservatory has a department 

 which is entirely devoted to Carnations these Gladiolus 

 may be planted between them ; they do not interfere in 

 the growth of the Carnation and they like the tempera- 

 ture in which the Carnation is produced. 2. They may 

 be potted or planted in flats and stored away in cold 

 frames or protected pits until February and March and 

 then brought under glass and gently forced. By the 

 above two treatments they usually begin to flower about 

 the latter part of April and are at their best in May. 3. 

 They may be planted out into the cold frame and treated 

 like Anemones and then the flowers are produced in June. 



Among the newer introductions there are some splen- 

 didly colored sorts, particularly in shades of lavender 

 and pink. 



Gladiolus Colvilli. which is usually classed among 

 these, requires the exact same treatment. 



L.-\RGE FLOW^ERED GLADIOLUS. 



In connection with this culture, three points must be 

 religiously observed: 1. That the bulb to be used is of 

 proper age, namely, that it has flowered at least two 

 years previously under regular field culture and conse- 

 quently is a fully matured and very large bulb of its kind. 

 2. That the bulb is thoroughly cured. This one point 

 seems to have been more responsible for failures in the 

 past than any other thing. Also the culture calls for 

 planting in January. A Gladiolus bulb requires positively 

 a rest of three months before it can be regrown for an- 

 other crop of flowers ; that would mean that the bulb has 

 to be harvested not later than the end of September. 

 Only bulbs that were planted in April, with the exception 

 of a few quick flowering varieties, as, for instance, "Pink 

 Beauty" and similar kinds are ready for lifting at that 

 time. Even then the curing of the bulbs must be far more 

 thorough than it usually is if the bulbs are stored for 

 spring planting it may require the spreading of the bulbs 

 on floors of storage rooms and artificial heat used to 

 thoroughly dry them. 3. That only such varieties are 

 used which are early bloomers, and which are known by 

 past experience to flourish under this culture. 



The following varieties may be recommended : "Ameri- 

 ca," "Panama," "Pink Beauty," "Mrs. Frank Pendleton, 

 Jr.," "Mrs. Francis King," "ilalley," ".\ugusta," "May," 

 "Peace," "Chicago White," "Brenchleyensis," "Princeps," 

 "Governor Hanley," "Niagara." In under-glass culture 

 the Gladiolus requires a cool temperature, and commercial 

 growers usually grow them for economy's sake between 

 Carnations, for the temperature which suits the Carnation 

 also suits the Gladiolus. 



GLORIOS.\. 



Gloriosa is popularly known as the Climbing Lily of 

 South Africa. In the conservatory it can be put to several 

 uses : 1. To use as a climber over doorways or for a gen- 

 eral greenhouse vine. 2. As a pot plant. The culture is 

 the same in each case. The bulbs are dormant during 

 late fall and are best procured at that time. When re- 

 ceived place them on dry moss on the bench of the con- 

 servatory and watch for the white growth on one end of 

 the bulb. Just as soon as this growth progresses it is 

 time to plant them. 



If grown either in pots or for a vine several should be 

 planted, properly spaced, as a single bulb produces a very 

 lonesome effect. 



Cover the bulbs not more than one inch and grow in a 

 warm house. Growth is very rapid and the slender stalks 

 must be tied to some support. The flowers appear, as a 

 rule, within two months after planting and many of them 

 are produced on a single stem. 



LILIU.M n.vRKisn. 



The bulbs of these Lilies usually arrive early in August 

 and should be promptly planted. Try and secure the 

 largest possible bulb, for the larger the bulb, the surer 

 your success. Fill the pot but half full with soil and set 

 your bulb upon it, allowing no part of the top of the bulb 

 to protrude. The top of the bulb should not be above the 

 rim of the pot. The bulb must fit fairly snug in the pot. 

 After potting, place the pot in a frame without the sash 

 and cover lightly with straw ; water carefully and regu- 

 larly every day. It will take from four to five weeks for 

 the bulb to make roots, but they make two sets of roots. 

 In addition to the roots below the bulbs, they produce a 

 set above the crown of the bulb and at the base of the 

 main stalk ; when these upper roots have progressed to 

 two or three inches it is time to give the plant a larger pot, 

 but great care must be taken not to disturb the roots 

 below. 



In the conservatory they should be grown fairly cool 

 until you can feel the buds by touching the upper part. 

 It is well now and then to dust sulphur between the leaves 

 to keep the plants in healthy, clean condition. Watering 

 must be religiously observed, but never must it be over- 

 done, for too much water is just as injurious as not 

 enough. When the buds can be felt they can be given 

 more heat. A great deal depends upon when they are 

 wanted in bloom. If they are desired for Easter, grow 

 them steadilv up to the time when the buds are almost 

 fully developed. From now on they can either be retarded 

 for a month by placing them in a rather cool and shady 

 place or they can be forced to full bloom in a few weeks 

 by increasing heat and light and water. A feeding with 

 liquid sheep manure at regular intervals will improve 

 foliage and flowers. 



LILIUM LONGIFLORUM GIG.'VNTEUM. 



The bulbs arrive late in October and should be potted 

 in the manner suggested for Lilium Harrisii. but must at 

 once be placed in the conservatory under the bench. 

 Being started so late they require more heat from the 

 beginning, but otherwise they respond to all treatments 

 as suggested for the Bermuda Lily. 



LILIUM CANDIDUM. 



Insist upon receiving bulbs grown in the northern part 

 of France, for they are the only quality which should be 

 used for growing under glass. 



These bulbs arrive earlv in September and should 

 promptly be potted, using Azalea pots and planting from 

 four to six bulbs in the proper size pot. 



The pots are then plunged in the cold frame and when 

 freezing w^eather sets in, they are covered with leaves and 

 the sash. About January 15 they are taken to the con- 

 servatory, where thev are gradually but gently forced. It 

 is not always possible to regulate their blooming season 

 for Easter, but even if they flower later, they are welcome. 



LILIUM MVRIOPIIYLLUM. 



The bulbs can be procured in early fall and if treated 

 like Lilium Giganteum, but forced only in cool houses, 

 they produce splendid flowers. 



LILIUM SPECIOSUM. 



All the sorts of this class can readily be grown under 

 glass for flowering in June. 



The bulbs arrive in November and after being potted 

 they are best stored for a couple of months in cold frames, 

 where they must be well protected from frost by sashes 

 and leaves. 



Heat must be gradual and gentle at fir?t. 



— From Growing' Bulbs. 



