Work for the Month of January 



Conducted by Henry Gibson, New York. 



OUTDOOR OPERATIONS. 



Active outduor operations during the munth of Jan- 

 uary are somewhat limited, hut of those that can be 

 performed, the pruning of fruit trees is perhaps the 

 most important. 



The object of pruning a fruit tree is to increase its 

 yield of fruit, enhance its beauty and secure fruit of 

 better quality. For a tree to produce well developed 

 fruit it must have sunshine and air. Therefore when the 

 limbs become so numerous that sunlight is excluded and 

 the foliage so thick that the air cannot circulate freely, 

 then the top mu:t be opened up by cutting out the super- 

 iluous limbs. 



As to the time of pruning, different authorities hold 

 different views. Some contend that fall and winter when 

 the trees are dormant is the best time. Others just as 

 strongly contend that early spring just as the sap begins 

 to flow is the best time. Personally, we are of the opinion 

 that any nice day in winter is a good time to do the 

 pruning and particularly at this season of the year when 

 other work is not demanding attention. 



All dead limbs should of course be removed. Look 

 over the tree, study it carefully and decide which of the 

 large branches, if any, should be removed to let in the 

 sunlight and air. • After you have attended to the large 

 limbs look over the tree for smaller details, cutting out 

 superfluous small growth water sprouts and cut back the 

 terminal growth one-third. Aim to keep the head low 

 and bear in mind that a tree with a moderate top will 

 invariably produce better fruit than one with a very large 

 head, even though the latter is abundantly supplied with 

 sunshine and air circulation. 



I).\.M.\GE EY MICE. 



Every winter much damage is done to fruit trees by 

 mice. This is especially noticeable after very hard win- 

 ters and heavy snows. The damage is done under the 

 snow, and is not usually detected until spring. A 

 clean, tidy orchard is not fikely to harbor many of these 

 pests, since it is among tall grass, weeds, undergrowth 

 and other refuse that they seek shelter. It is found to 

 be an excellent practive to prevent damage to the bark of 

 trees by mice to tramp the snow firmly about the base 

 of each tree. This renders any grass or other material 

 found there unavailable as shelter. Another plan is to 

 pile earth six or eight inches high around the base of the 

 trees. This should be removed in spring. 



Still another method, which will kill the mice, is to 

 wash the trunks of the trees with a solution of which 

 paris green is mixed. Portland cement mixed to the con- 

 sistency of common paint is found to be good for holding 

 the poison. The mixture is applied to the trunk of the 

 tree with a stiff brush. 



SPRAYIXG. 



Before passing from the subject of fruit trees we 

 would like to mention the necessity of thorough and sys- 

 tematic spraying if the best results are to be obtained. 

 Fruit tree enemies, both insects and diseases, must be con- 

 trolled, and spraying is at once the best and most econom- 

 ical way of doing this. It is no longer a mere experiment, 

 it has become and is as important as pruning, cultivating 

 or any other gardening operation. 



There are certain essentials of spraying which should 

 not be overlooked, and which we will briefly mention be- 

 cause space forbids us going into details. These are, 

 spray thoroughh- — careless, indift'erent spraying is worse 

 than useless, and is dead loss. Know why you are spray- 

 ing. Sprays that control diseases are not eiifective against 

 insects, heiice there are sprays for each. Fortunately, 

 these may be combined and applied at the same time. 

 Spray in time ; it is of very little use to spray after the 

 damage is done. Have vour material ready before hand, 

 and take time by the forelock. Spray ever}' year. Fail- 

 ure to observe this last essential has led many to doubt 

 the usefulness of spraying at all. 



Spraying is a long series of operations, so why not get 

 as much available literature as possible and go thoroughly 

 into the matter during the long winter evenings? It will 

 prove worth while ; try it. 



THE VEGETABLE G.\RDEN. 



Advantage should be taken of all favorable occasions 

 to proceed witli the digging of the vegetable ground, 

 especially if the soil is of a cloggy texture, so as to ex- 

 pose it to the weather. On no account should digging 

 1)6 proceeded with whilst the ground is frozen. To turn 

 lumps of frozen soil into the ground only results in keep- 

 ing it cold nuich later in the spring. 



^lanure may be wheeled or carted on the land that 

 has not been dug during the spells of frosty weather. 



The covering should l)c taken oft' and air given to cold 

 frames during mild days. Celery should be aired when- 

 ever possible. 



Rhubarb, asparagus and sea kale may be taken into 

 the forcing house as required ; also chicory. Lettuce for 

 transplanting later to hot beds may be sown now. For 

 purposes of exhibition, leeks and onii^ns may lie sown 

 under glass. 



THE GUEENHOUSES. 



Rambler roses intended for house and conservatory 

 decoration in early spring, should be topdressed with 

 good loam and bonemcal, and started into growth in a 

 temperature of forty to fifty degrees. 



With the advent of longer days roses that have been 

 blooming right along will soon show signs of renewed 

 root action. When this occurs they may be topdressed 

 with bonemeal, sheep manure or other approved fertil- 

 izer. A light application of soot will tone up the color 

 wonderfully, luiough to blacken the surface of the soil 

 is all that is required. 



Gladiolus mav be planted for spring blooming. Poin- 

 settias should be stored under a dry bench. Specimen 

 Lantanas that have had the water supply withheld may 

 now be started into growth. Any that have become 

 too dry and are backward about starting should be placed 

 in a temperature of 65 degrees at night, and syringed 

 freely during bright days. 



Cinerarias have been taking stimulants in the form 

 of liquid manure and light topdressing of commercial 

 fertilizers for some time. This treatment should be con- 

 tinued once or twice a week until the flowers show color. 



Hyacinths and other bulbs coming into blooms should 

 be placed in a li.ght position near the glass in order to 

 get them as sturdy as possible. Take in another batch 

 of bulbs to keep up a succession. 



