Work for the Month of March 



By Henry Gibson. 



The object of [pruning- fruit trees is so w l'11 under- 

 stood by gardeners in general that it is needless to go 

 into the details of it here. As to the time of pruning, 

 diiilerent authorities hold different views. Some con- 

 tend that early spring, just as the sap begins to flow, 

 is the proper time, whilst others just as strongly con- 

 tend for pruning during the fall and winter when the 

 trees are dormant. 



We are of the opinion, however, that from the aver- 

 age gardener's standpoint that any fine day during 

 the winter is well spent in pruning. In the spring 

 there is usualh- a pressttre of other work, much of 

 which will be done in a rushing, slip-shod manner if 

 too much is left to be done at this time. Winter 

 jM'uning is equally as satisfactory in normal seasons 

 as is sjiring pruning, and has the advantage of greatly 

 relieving the pressure of spring work. Any pruning 

 that is not yet done should be attended to on the first 

 opjjortunity. 



.\11 cuts of any size shottld be painted over after 

 being allowed to dry for a few days. The paint will 

 then stick to the surface Ijctter and the oil soak into 

 the wood. 



While talking of the fruit trees it would be well to 

 mention the spraying. Don't overlook this ; it is one 

 (if the most profitable operations that can be per- 

 formed. Whether you have only ten or a thousand 

 trees, spray them. 



Hot Beds and Cold Fr.\mes. 



A hotbed or two wdnere small stock can be raised 

 is a most valuable acquisition to any gardener, be he 

 amateur or professional. A layer of well-firmed ma- 

 nure about 18 inches deep, , and extending a foot or 

 more beyond the area covered by the frame, will gen- 

 erate sufficient heat to resist any belated cold spell 

 that is likely to overtake us during March, and will 

 last until the warm days of spring are with us again. 

 The later the hotbeds are prepared the less ferment- 

 ing material will be required, and if some hay, straw 

 or leaves be mixed with the manure it will last longer, 

 and the heat will not be so intense. Three or four 

 inches of soil is enough for the raising of seedlings 

 or rooting cuttings. This layer of earth should not 

 Ije put on until the first rank heat has escaped, and no 

 seeds or cutting should be put in the soil tmtil the 

 heat has settled down to, and gives indications of 

 remaining steadily, at from 60 to 65 degrees. Should 

 severe weather set in after the bed is made up, the 

 sash should be put on, and a covering of hay, straw, 

 or mats over them all round the frames will do much 

 to maintain the heat at an agreeable point. 



'There are few kinds of seeds, cuttings, bulbs, or 

 small potted plants that cannot be sticcessfully han- 

 dled in a hotbed, and for the man without a green- 

 house such is invaluable. 



Pansies, myosotis, daisies, etc., that have been win- 

 tered in cold frames should be aired more freelv than 

 has hithertofore been possible. These plants will 

 hardly suffer to any great extent from severe cold or 

 sudden changes in the temperature, but if allowed to 

 remain covered dtiring a real warm spell they are 

 bound to suiifer. Go over them carefully and pull out 

 any weeds that may have grown up, and water any 

 of the plants that show signs of dryness. 



F.\NCV Leaved Caladiums. 

 There are few plants that can be used to better ad- 

 vantage in brightening up and adding color to the 



conservatory during the summer nmnths than tiie 

 fancy leaved caladiums. Those who have need of this 

 sort of thing would do well to get some started dur- 

 ing the present month. They don't make much head- 

 way until well along in June, but those started early 

 make extra sized plants and are well worth the 

 trouble. A good way to start them is to put them 

 into 2l<-inch pots in a light sandy soil. Care should 

 be taken, however, to have a layer of clean sand im- 

 mediately below the bulbs. The pots should then be 

 plunged into peat litter in a propagating case, where 

 a bottom heat of from 75 t(j 80 degrees can be main- 

 tained. Anotlier way to start these caladiums is to 

 plant them close together in flats on a layer of moss 

 and cover overhead with the same material. The flats 

 are then elevated on bricks over the hot-water pipes. 

 When potted they should have a compost of fibrous 

 loam, leaf mold, and sand, with the addition of a little 

 broken charcoal. Give them a night temperature of 

 40 to 45 degrees and keep tlie atmosphere rather 

 humid. 



Cannas. 



Cannas that have been stored away in the cellar 

 should be started into growth. Clean away the dead 

 leaf bases and cut the roots into pieces, each having 

 two eyes. If one is short of stock and a large quantity 

 is required, cutting to one eye may be practiced, 

 though we do not think that the plants are so strong 

 when onI_y one eye is left. Set the pieces close to- 

 gether in flats containing a mixture three parts good 

 loam, two jjarts leaf mold and one of sand. To start 

 well cannas require a brisk bottom heat, and this can 

 easily be jjrovided by placing the flats on the heating 

 pipes in the rose house. Of course, if one has suf- 

 ficient room in the propagating bench they will start 

 equally well there. Watering should be done with 

 care until growth is active, liut on no account should 

 they be allowed to dry out whilst starting into 

 growth. 



Callas. 



It is from late winter down through the spring 

 months that callas yield the greatest supply of flow- 

 ers. They like copious supplies of water at the roots 

 and frequent syringing is necessary to keep down red 

 spider. Callas are strong growers and the constant 

 production of foliage and flowers render feeding nec- 

 essary at frequent intervals. Liquid cow manure, ap- 

 plied twice a week, and an occasional dose of soot 

 water will go a long way in keeping the plants in 

 first-class condition. 



Stevi.\. 



Place the stock plants of stevia close up to the glass, 

 so that they will produce sturdy cuttings. In a car- 

 nation house, they will soon show plenty of cuttings, 

 which can lie placed in the sand alongside the carna- 

 tion cuttings, and they will coat without any trouble. 

 Pricking of Skedlings. 



There will be lots of seedlings that will be ready to 

 prick ofif into flats or be potted u]). .As tlie days 

 lengthen and the sun gains more power it will be nec- 

 essary to watch the seedlings more closely and see 

 that the)- do not dry out. Use a good proportion of 

 leaf mold for all seedlings, and if some old manure 

 from a spent hotbed can be incorporated with it the 

 seedlings will be all the better for it. Careful water- 

 ing, shading from bright sun for the first few days, 

 and a moderately close atmosphere will do much to- 

 wards reducing losses to a minimum. 



