:::r::C CAMPING IX A barranca at:::::.::: 



apex of black pines and lava is warmed by a dull 

 glow, which fitfully rises and falls — the very pulse of 

 Mother Earth. Here is the mystery of the cosmos ; 

 our first glimpse of earth's primeval fires which have 

 glowed since the first cell came into existence — and 

 Avho knows how many ages before? One may read 

 of strange customs, and at once see them clearly in his 

 mind's eye ; of grand mountains, and imagine their 

 appearance and impressiveness ; but of an active vol- 

 cano — never ! The awe, the deep reverence it arouses 

 is part of one's deepest nature, beyond words or expres- 

 sion. It is late that night — and many other nights — 

 before Senorita and I interrupt our revery. 



The Mexican guide was tardy next morning, — two 

 hours by our watches, — but according to his notion 

 only a little, " ahorita," — a very little, — behind 

 time. A silver peso bought a large assortment of the 

 most primitive earthen oUas, jars and saucers, and 

 several plaited straw mats, all of which we found in- 

 valuable later on. When these were tied on above the 

 packs, we said good-bye to our hostesses ; and our little 

 cavalcade clattered off through the deserted streets, 

 past the station, the railroad terminus, and the little 

 w^ayside shrine which always marks the completion of 

 any considerable undertaking in this country. 



For mile after mile we rode along a level, dusty trail, 

 zigzagging through parched mesquite bushes, from 

 which a short gallop to one side frightened out Curve- 



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