:::::::.m TWO BIRD -LOVERS IN MEXICO B""""' 



our former camping-places and resting- during- the heat 

 of the day. By twiHght we made Tonila, the halfway 

 yillage, nestling- at the very foot of the mountain of 

 fire. The usu-dljiesta was in full swing-, for which we 

 were glad, as it ensured an abundance of snow ice- 

 cream. This we enjoyed all the more when we learned 

 that the snow was brouoht by Mexicans in sacks from 

 the lofty frozen summit of the fire mountain's dead 

 sister peak. 



The little plaza was a weird sight that night. The 

 wide-open doors of the dim cliurch revealed the 

 fig-ures of kneeling women and children. Outside, the 

 flickering light of a multitude of bark-torches flared 

 unsteadily, throwing lights and shadows among the 

 crowd of Mexicans. Now and then an unearthly glow 

 fell upon all and then died out — the eternal torch 

 of the overhanoinof volcano. The Mexicans bouiiht 

 pulque and dulces and listened to the pitiful little 

 band. Once, at a more flourishing period in the an- 

 nals of Toniln, the natives had erected an elaborate 

 and gaudy band-stand, which was now falling into 

 ruin. Though their numbers had lessened and their 

 jjesos dwindled to an all-pervading poverty, yet their 

 love of music was no whit less. In the centre of the 

 dilapidated platform stood a lonesome little group of 

 four. On the floor was a low box. On its centre a 

 candle. On each side of the dim light was a piece of 

 tattered music. With two worn-out violins, a guitar, 



«^ i>60 ^ 



