CHAPTER XIX. 



SMYTHE'S channel — GULF OF PENAS — VALPARAISO. 



Early on the morning of 5th February we left 

 Churruca Bay and entered Smythe's Channel. 

 The scenery in this channel is even more beautiful 

 than that of the Straits of Magellan. Mountains, 

 covered with primeval forest, tower high on 

 both sides, while the water, smooth and of an inky 

 blackness, is dotted with islands of all sizes. 

 Unfortunately, these splendours cannot be seen 

 to advantage, on account of the execrable climate 

 of this part of the world. All the winter it is said 

 to be snowing continually, and during the five days 

 we spent in the channel it rained continuously, 

 while a perpetual mist veiled the snow-topped 

 peaks. 



To wander through the dripping forests was not 

 pleasant. At the best of times they are almost 

 impenetrable, owing to the thick vegetation, 

 but when at every step one was met with a shower 

 of water falling from the trees and bushes, the dis- 

 comfort was great. 



Soon after midday, a boat-load of Fuegians 



