198 AUDUBON 



four, were powdered and dressed in deep red, almost 

 maroon liveries, except the butler, who was in black, and 

 who appeared to me to hand fresh plates continuously. 

 After a dinner of somewhat more than an hour, the ladies 

 retired with the Earl, and I remained with the three 

 gentlemen to talk and drink wine. The conversation was 

 entirely of antiquities. Mr. Hays is a deeply learned and 

 interesting man, besides being quite an original. At the 

 hour of ten we joined the Countess, the Earl having 

 retired, and I have been much interested looking at the 

 signatures of the kings of old, as well as that of Marie, 

 Queen of Scots, and those of many other celebrated men 

 and women, while two of the gentlemen were examining 

 a cabinet of antique coins. The Countess looked very 

 brilliant, being attired in white satin with a crimson turban. 

 At midnight (coffee having been served about eleven), 

 the ladies bid us good-night, and we sat down to talk, 

 and drink, if we wished to, Madeira wine. What a life! 

 I could not stand this ceremony daily, I long for the 

 woods; but I hope this life will enable me to enjoy them 

 more than ever at a future period, so I must bear it 

 patiently. After a few moments I left the gentlemen, and 

 came to my yellow room. 



Thursday, December 28. Daylight came and I opened 

 all my yellow curtains, and explored my room by daylight; 

 and I have forgotten to tell thee that the dressing-room, 

 with its large porcelain tub and abundance of clear water, 

 opened from it, and was warm with crimson of the color of 

 the Countess's turban. The chimney-piece was decorated 

 with choice shells, and above it a painting representing 

 Queen Mary in her youth. The house seemed very still, 

 but after dressing I decided to go down, for the morning 

 was clear and the air delightful. As I entered the drawing- 

 room I saw two housemaids busily cleaning; the younger 

 saw me first, and I heard her say, " The American gentle- 

 man is down already," when they both vanished. I went 



