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Hardwood Record — Veneer & Panel Section 



October 2 5, 1918 



LONG-KNIGHT 



LUMBER COMPANY 

 CYPRESS 



WALNUT- HARDWOODS 



WALNUT LUMBER 

 30,000 ft. 1" FAS 

 3,000 ft. 5/4 FAS 

 1,000 ft. 8/4 FAS. 



255,000 ft. 1/28' Mahogany 



200,000 ft. 1 " No. 1 C. 



15,000 ft. 5 4 No. 1 C. 



11,000 ft. 6 4 No. 1 C. 



3,000 ft. 8/4 No. 1 C. 



VENEERS 

 227,000 ft. 1/28 " Walnut 



150,000 ft. 4/4 No. 2 C. 

 38,000 ft. 5/4 No. 2 C. 

 28,000 ft. 6/4 No. 2 C. 

 22,000 ft. 8/4 No. 2 C. 



367,000 ft. 1/28 " Butt Walnut 



Manufacturers and Wholesalers 



Indianapolis, Indiana 



Letters From a Panel User 



ABOUT FINISHING 



Monroe, Mich., October 13: Many of us, however, neglect a 

 very important part of veneered work, and that is the finishing. 

 Success in finishing, w^hich means getting perfect work at a low 

 cost, can be reached only along one road. Each operation must 

 be properly done before the next is started and the materials 

 must be absolutely dependable. Most troubles in panels are in 

 evidence after the stock is finished. The finisher cannot cover 

 and correct the defects due to improper veneering. The stock 

 may be properly veneered from perfectly dry materials; the work- 

 manship be all that can be desired, nevertheless after the finisher 

 performs his part of the work, we discover defects that may kill 

 the sale of the article. 



The literature offered today covers highly intelligent informa- 

 tion and all the finisher need do is apply it. 



Before the goods are taken to the finishing room they must have 

 passed inspection and be pronounced perfect. Next the stainer 

 should study the piece. When making this statement I do not 

 mean that he should spend minutes in observing and thinking 

 about how he should proceed with the work, but if he under- 

 stands his business he can tell at a glance what is to be done. 

 After staining he must again inspect the work and wood which 

 shows up too light after staining must be gone over again. Indeed, 

 an expert in this line can so well match various colored pieces of 

 wood that one would think the entire article is constructed from 

 wood of absolutely the same color and texture. It must be re- 

 membered that after the filler, shellac and varnish are applied it 

 will be too late to correct color or shade troubles. So we must 

 have the right foundation before we proceed with the work. 



A transparent stain should be used and on mahogany or birch 

 we strongly suggest the use of a water stain. Some say that water 

 will raise the fibers of the wood. This is true but may be over- 

 come by allowing the stain to dry out thoroughly, then coating 



All Three of Us Will Be Benefited if 



with a very thin solution of shellac; not more than 1 pound of 

 gum to the gallon of solvent. Bleached shellac is better than orange 

 for mahogany, but it must be fresh. 



Good filling is essential to good finishing. Many finishers use 

 their filler too heavy. This is an absolute waste of material. Put 

 the filler on thin and rub the pores full and you will find that it 

 dries better. 



The paste should be reduced to a thick, creamy consistency 

 with turpentine, and applied with a rather stiff brush of bristles. 

 After setting it must be rubbed off across the grain of the wood 

 with a piece of burlap, tow, or excelsior, being very careful not to 

 pull out any of the filling. Perhaps more defective finish can be 

 traced to poor filling than to any other cause. Unless the surface 

 is smooth, and the suction of the pores is stopped, it is impossible 

 to get a good finish with three or even more coats of varnish. 



Shellac requires no introduction. We are all familiar with the 

 way it is prepared and how to deduct adulterants. The idea in 

 the modern use of shellac is to get a quick coat over the filler and 

 stain and by so doing we can usually save one coat of varnish. The 

 advantage of shellac is that it dries more quickly than varnish, but 

 shellac should dry for at least tw^enty-four hours before varnish is 

 applied. 1 know that many will not agree with this but many years 

 of experience have taught me that this is a pretty good rule to 

 follow, and, though our customers are at times in a hurry for the 

 goods, they will always be patient when we explain to them that 

 to rush the stock through the finishing room would likely result 

 in poor quality. Shellac troubles are usually had during rainy 

 seasons. Watch the quality of this material and carefully supervise 

 its application and you will have no shellac troubles. 



Expert varnishers are in demand. To become an expert var- 

 nisher two things are required, know^ledge and experience. We 

 could write page upon page telling our readers how varnish should 

 be applied, how tested, but it takes real practice and experience 

 to do this work properly. When it comes to the science of put- 



You Mention HARDWOOD RECORD 



