598 



HORTICULTUEE 



November 2, 1912 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



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QnestloDi bT oar readen tn Une with anj uf ilie i "iilis (iresftited mi this unite will be cordially received and prcimptly answered 

 by Ur. Penson. Bach communlLulluns Bbuuid luvarlably be addressed to the office of BORTICULTDRB. 



Root Pruning 



Do not delay this important job after the leaves com- 

 mence to turn color and fall on those trees which have 

 been "marked" for erratic growth. It is a common 

 thing to meet with jjeople who do not understand the 

 scientific phase of root pruning. The prevalent idea is 

 to cut the strong wood out and thus make room foi 

 more fruiting wood the next season. This, of course, 

 makes those few eyes which are left grow equally strong 

 the following season and so on until the tree either at- 

 tains great proportions, or the food substances wear out 

 in the soil, which takes time and means light crops or 

 none at all. There is no reason why a tree planted un- 

 der glass should not carry a crop of fruit the second year 

 after planting. This is referring to the necessity of root 

 pruning young trees only. These are the greater offend- 

 ers, but it sometimes happens an older tree will start and 

 make much too heavy wood. This is sometimes ac- 

 counted for by the roots' getting out of control or con- 

 tinued light, cropping with heavy feeding. Whatever 

 the call may be do not hesitate to prune the roots if the 

 fruiting wood produced is not satisfactory. Two points 

 are essential for success, viz.: do it at the right time 

 and see that the roots do not become dry before the trecii 

 are started into growth; the roots are "the root of the 

 evil" and this itself explains why tlieir sphere should be 

 reduced and in time they will produce tlie required fruit- 

 ing wood. Second, the soil in the border should be in a 

 "workable" state at the time; that is, not to be exces- 

 sively dry or wet. To proceed, mark a semi-circle on 

 the soil around the base of tree at a reasonable distance 

 and dig down to the drainage on tliis line, throwing the 

 soil well out of the way; any roots encountered at this 

 distance can be discarded. Now proceed to loosen the 

 soil from the ball with a small digging fork, throwing 

 it out of the bottom after it is loose. After the first 

 trench is dug around the tree a spade or shovel should 

 not be used again, excepting to throw out loose soil, or 

 good roots are liable to be broken. Bad trees will be 

 found to have strong roots right down to the drainage. 

 These and others having a downward tendency must be 

 worked up nearer to the surface. Bunch them up with 

 a piece of raffia and sling them to the trellis out of the 

 way. It is of no use to half-do young trees; get right 

 under them. When the ball has been reduced sutficiently 

 to allow of tunneling under, do one half first and pack 

 it up again, which will prevent the ball from breaking. 

 If your border is too dry to work properly, here's where 

 you get your trouble. With cross-trellis trees it will be 

 necessary to do both sides of the trellis alike, and to be 

 sure the tree has been properly got under, at the time of 

 starting to replace the soil on the first side, push two or 

 three yellow leaves to the back of the ball which will 

 serve as markers when working on the opposite side. 

 Fill in some of the bottom soil before replacing any 

 roots ; this and all the soil must be rammed quite firm as 

 it is replaced. The actual pruning of the roots is a 

 simple job; use a sharp knife and always make a clean 

 oblique upward cut. Experience is the best teacher as 



to how far to cut them back ; be governed by the growth 

 made. When replacing the roots see that they are all 

 laid horizontally, spreading them evenly over the sur- 

 face and taking care not to bunch them by carelessly 

 throwing the soil on to them. Get them as near to 

 within three inches of the surface as you can. Give the 

 trees a soaking soon after the work is completed. This 

 is a job wliich cannot be rushed : the man who tries to do 

 so courts failure as it takes time to do it properly. 



Melons in Pots 



To keep up a continuous supply of melons through- 

 out the year regular sowings should be made each 

 month. For midwinter work pots are best used in 

 ])reference to benches. The former have distinct ad- 

 vantages over the latter at this time of year. Each plant 

 is under separate control and they also dry out much 

 more quickly, making it easier to finish tlie fruit. The 

 sowings made about the 1st of December can be the 

 first for bench work. Sow the seeds in three-inch pots 

 and cover them over with a sheet of glass. This will 

 help to keep the soil moist after they are watered in 

 and also be the best preventive against the ravages of 

 vermin. If there are any around they will soon find 

 melon seeds and give them small show after the first 

 night. As many as forty seeds have been known to dis- 

 appear in one night. 



When the seedlings have nicely fiUetl the threes out 

 with roots, move them on into sixes, from which they 

 .should go to the finals. These should be not less than 

 fourteen-inch. Use a good open compost and make it 

 moderately firm with the rammer. Keep the base of the 

 stem nearly as high as the sides of the pot ; this keeps 

 it out of the water and is a preventive to canker. It will 

 pay better to be satisfied with one good frait off each 

 plant tlian to have several small half-finished fruits. 



Radishes 



Radishes are one of the quickest vegetables to give 

 returns and are easily grown. They utilize very little 

 space or can be grown between other crops without in- 

 jury to either. Sown between spinach they are pulled 

 before either is crowded. If young lettuce are trans- 

 ferred to the benches when small, radishes will mature 

 before they are in the way. Given a bench to themselves 

 they can be sown broadcast in rows. If the latter way 

 is used make the rows about four inches apart. 



Lettuce 



Plants growing in the cold frames will now have good 

 heads on them and should be kept cool. Remove the 

 sashes soon after the sun raises the temperature to 45 

 degrees and do not put them on in the afternoon bo 

 long as the sun is shining and the temperature does not 

 recede below the previous figure. Wlien watering do so 

 in the morning or early enough in the afternoon so that 

 the plants can be dry before night time. Younger plant? 

 coming on in the vegetable house will need to have the 

 surface soil continually broken up to admit air to the 

 roots. 



