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HOETICULTUEB 



November 9, 1912 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



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Cleaning and Renovating Early Vinery 



Immediately after the leaves have fallen in the early 

 vinery the vines should be pruned and the wheels of 

 the winter cleaning machinery set in motion, in the 

 event of a start into growth to be made December 1st. 

 When pruning young vines do not be in too great a 

 hurry to have them fill up the house. It may seem a 

 shame to cut away so many good looking eyes, but in the 

 interest of the lasting constitution of the vines they 

 must be sacrificed. The stronger the canes made, the 

 more eyes may be left to grow the following year, but 

 three to four feet should be the limit. Weak canes should 

 be cut back shorter. Do not lose sight of the truth that 

 "prevention is better than cure," which will remind one 

 of bleeding vines last spring. The special preparation, 

 "Styptic," which can be obtained from all seed stores, 

 is the best thing to use. Varnish and shellac are used 

 with variable success. It is essential that the whole cut 

 be covered with the preparation, and a clean cut is the 

 only way to insure this. Should a lateral have been 

 broken off close to an eye, so that it is impossible to make 

 a cut, saturate the broken end two or three times. 



After pruning thoroughly, wash down the house — 

 glass, woodwork, walls, etc. — everything which goes to 

 make the interior of the house. Wliale oil soap in solu- 

 tion will act both as an insecticide and soap. No corner 

 should be overlooked or the main object of this work will 

 be lost. Pests always seem to provide for the coming 

 generation and leave behind enough to establish their 

 "kingdom." This stock will receive a severe shakeup 

 if the house is washed down from top to bottom, omit- 

 ting no crevice or cavity which will harbor them. The 

 washing and cleaning of the vines is even more impor- 

 tant. If they were clean through the growing season, it 

 will be sufficient to rub off all the loose bark you can 

 with the hand. Dirty rods should receive a scraping 

 with a hard piece of wood or blunt knife, but avoid the 

 barbarous practice of scraping them down to the live 

 bark. This is injurious. The outer barks of the vine 

 are given for protection and so long as they are not loose 

 nothing can be underneath them. 



Winter Washes 



Winter washes for vines are numerous and range from 

 clear water to "adulterated mud." 'Forms of the latter 

 which really are insecticides mixed into clay are some- 

 times advisable on real old vines having lots of holes to 

 fill up and thus debar any bugs a hiding place next 

 summer. For average rods which were fairly clean last 

 season we use the old preparation "Gishursts' Com- 

 pound." This is perfectly safe and does the work. 

 AATiere red spider was prevalent mix a little sulphur into 

 it, but in no case must it touch an eye. 



The Border 



Takiag the work in rotation as it comes along we 

 come last but not least to the border. Vines that are 

 being built up may want an addition, others only a top 

 dressing. Additions are similar to making new borders, 

 wliich will be dealt with later. When top-dressing, first 

 carefully remove the old mulch. If the roots have made 

 their way into it, this may have to be done with the 

 hands to avoid breaking them. If any top soil can be 

 removed without damaging the roots do so with a small 

 digging fork, leaving the surface loose to receive the top 

 dressing, which should be of the very best loam, coarse 

 bone meal and charcoal. 



Where outside borders are in use it will now be neces- 

 sary to protect them from the heavy rains and frosts. 

 This is best accomplished by covering them with dry 

 leaves two feet deep, and then placing some long straw 

 manure over them to keep them in their place. Over the 

 whole should be placed some waterproof material- — sheet 

 iron, tin, or wood to throw off the winter rains. The 

 roots of vines cannot stand any very severe weather. 



Strawberries to Winter Quarters 



When there is danger of freezing the soil in straw- 

 berry pots they should be plunged or the majority will 

 be broken by the expansion of the freezing earth. In 

 states wliere cold is experienced to any degree provision 

 should 1)6 made to have these packed away in cold frames 

 so that additional protection can be given them in the 

 severe weather. Secure a quantity of dry leaves when 

 the lawns are being cleaned off and pack them around 

 the pots, which should be placed close together. Make 

 the whole thing solid so tliat the frost will not penetrate. 

 As they are being packed away examine each crown and 

 remove any side growths or suckers, as they only rob the 

 crown and have to be removed later in the spring. Take 

 care to have large labels placed so that there is no diffi- 

 culty to distinguish the varieties. Should a spell of 

 good weather set in the plants may need a watering after 

 plunging. 



Forcing Asparagus 



Asparagus will force easily after a frost. ' A few roots 

 can be lifted to have the full benefit of the first cold 

 nights, but see that they do not get dry from exposure 

 through the day. They will move much quicker if 

 placed on a mild hot-bed. Any fine soil will do to cover 

 the roots witli ; take care to get it down between them. 

 Eough leaf soil will answer well to cover over the crowns 

 as it is moist and offers no resistance to the young grass. 

 Give a night temperature of 58 F. to 60 F. degrees with- 

 the usual advance by day and plenty of water. 



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