December 21, 1912 



HOETICULTUEE 



861 



NOTES ON CULTURE OF FLORISTS^ STOCK 



CONDUCTED BY 



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Questiuns by our readers in line with any of tlie topics presented on this page will be I'Drdially received and promtply answered 

 by Mr. Farrell. Such communications should invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 



Azalea mollis 



Wliere you have quite a lot of Azalea mollis that was 

 potted some time ago and placed in a deep cold frame, 

 now is a good time to start a batch, which will take 

 about eight weeks to come into flower. For the first 

 two or three weeks they will be better in a cool house of 

 about 45 degrees at night as they like a slow start. 

 After this they can be placed where the temperature will 

 run from 55 to 58 degrees at night. Keep the atmo?- 

 phere in a nice moist state until they begin to show 

 color, when they should be given a cooler and drier house 

 See that they are always given enough water at the roots 

 to keep them moist. Do not overlook when bringing them 

 into warmer quarters to begin to give them a syringing 

 at least twice a day, which is of great benefit in making 

 them break good ; this can be continued until they begin 

 to show color. 



Dutch Hyacinths 



The first planted batch of Dutch hyacinths should 

 have by this time a heavy mass of roots, and should be 

 placed in a moderately warm house, say from 55 to 60 

 degrees at night. In the early part of the year there is 

 always trouble getting a good length of stem, so it is 

 important to place the plants in an absolutely dark 

 place, until they show the desired length of stem, when 

 they can gradually be brought into full light, and will 

 do fine on an elevated bench or shelf. Here they will 

 develop intense color, with spikes strong and stout and 

 will keep and sell well. See that none of them become 

 dry at the roots, for when flats or pans are a mass of 

 roots they will take water in great abundance. When 

 allowed to suffer for the want of it they will not produce 

 good spikes. So see that they get rightful share of atten- 

 tion at all times. 



Lilies for Easter 



It is opportune now to make a few remarks on lilie? 

 that you intend for Easter. It is well to bear in mind 

 that next Easter falls on the early date of March 23rd. 

 So now is not a bit too early to house all lilies intended 

 for that date. When your stock is well rooted, which 

 they should be by this time, they can be placed on a 

 bench well up to the glass and where tlioy can have 

 abundance of light. Do not place them in strong heat 

 at the start but give them a temperature of about 50 

 degrees at first. In about two weeks as growth pro- 

 gresses you can give another five degrees and so on, 

 gi-adually increasing the temperature until you have 

 them up to 65 degrees at night, which should bring 

 them along on time. When they have made good stem 

 and foliage and seem to be backward by the first of 

 February you can give 70 degrees at night. Use great 

 care in watering ; make it a point to keep each and every 

 pot in a moist state, as they should never be allowed to 

 become either dry or in a soaked state. Give ventila- 

 tion on all possible occasions, but not enough to lower 

 the temperature. During all bright days give them a 



good syringing and fumigate once a week moderately to 



keep down the aphis. 



Dendrobioms 



All dendrobiums such as nobile, Devonianum, and 

 Wardianum, that have completed their growth, should 

 have their season of rest by keeping them drier at the 

 roots and by removing them to a cooler house, where 

 they can have a temperature of about 48 degrees at night, 

 with ten degrees higher with sun heat. At this period 

 they will stand full sun, which is very important where 

 you want good flowering canes. To help these orchids to 

 lapse into a donnant state they will need but very little 

 water at the roots. This should be brought about gradu- 

 ally, a little less each time, until they become well har- 

 dened up, but never allow them to shrivel from dryness 

 at the root. During bright sunshine they should have a 

 good syringing overhead, which will help them out 

 materially. Ventilation plays a very important part in 

 finishing them up also, so when the outside conditions 

 will allow admit plenty of air. All such species as 

 Dendrobium Fiudlayanum, thyrsiflorum, densiflorum, 

 liioibhini. etc.. will have to be rested at night in order 

 to come out in good shape. Wliile water should be 

 gradually withheld these species will not endure so much 

 drought as the others named aliove. 



The Propagating Bench 



The time is rapidly drawing near with the fading 

 away of the old year, when all growers will want to in- 

 crease stock. Those who have a well-working propagat- 

 ing house with a reliable system of heating have nine 

 points of the success under their control, but where this 

 is not available you will have to use a bench in some one 

 of your houses where the sun's rays can be excluded but 

 leaving plenty of light. See that the bench is above 

 heating pipes that are evenly distributed and with work- 

 ing valves that can be opened or shut as the case may 

 require. A good rule is to maintain a steady tempera- 

 ture in the sand of from 5 to 10 degrees higher than 

 that in which the plants were grown. For the bottom of 

 the bench place an inch of broken tufty soil, moss, gravel 

 or any other coarse but clean material ; this will produce 

 good drainage. On this you can place two to three 

 inches of finely sifted clean sand. Spread it even all over 

 and then leave it well firmed. With a good watering 

 your bench will then be ready. 



Petunias 



Give stock plants of double petunias a light bench and 

 well up to the light so they will start and make some 

 good cuttings. They like a temperature of about 55 

 degi-ees at night with 10 to 15 degrees higher with sun- 

 shine. Keep them watered and syringed and they will 

 soon produce a fine batch of cuttings. When rooted they 

 can be potted into 31/2-iiich pots using any good potting 

 soil, keeping them shaded for a few days until they make 

 new roots, when they should have a place with full ex- 

 posure to the sun. 



Farrell's next notes wUl be on the following: Carnations for propagation; 



Forcing Lilacs; Hydrangeas; Verbenas. 



care of Rambler roses; Dracaena indivisa ; 



