December 28, 1912 



HORTICULTURE 



893 



NOTES ON CULTURE OF FLORISTS^ STOCX 



CONDUCTED BY 



^^^3 



pi.^a/,/>.a/ 



Questions by our readers in iine with any of the topics presented on this page will be tordially received and promtply answered 

 by Mr. Farrell. Such communications should invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 





Carnations for Propagation 



Now is the time to start propagation in earnest. Wlien 

 getting your cuttings select the short stubby side growth, 

 which makes the ideal cutting. Trim the foliage so as 

 to obviate crowding in the sand and also to let the air 

 circulate among the cuttings which ultimately makes 

 them surer to root. When prepared in this manner, pro- 

 viding they are neither too soft nor too hard, they will 

 root in from twenty-one to twenty-eight days according 

 to the variety. During the hardest firing the bottom 

 heat should not exceed 58 degrees while the atmosphere 

 of the house should be run as near 50 degrees as possi- 

 ble. For the first twelve or fifteen days it will be neces- 

 sary to shade the' cuttings against sunshine and to keep 

 them sprayed every morning. This will aid root-forma- 

 tion and they will gradually stand full sun. Admit air 

 freely, but guard against cold air currents. When they 

 have roots about half an inch long they can be potted or 

 boxed up and grown in a cool house. 



Rambler Roses 



The sooner these roses are brought in and placed in a 

 cool house the better. To have Ramblers on time for 

 Easter they should be allowed ten weeks. The tempera- 

 ture at first should not be higher than 50 degrees at 

 night until the roots begin to make some headway. 

 Every morning give a good syringing so as to thorough- 

 ly dampen the wood. When they are encouraged to 

 break and make some top growth the temperature can 

 be raised to 55 degrees and in two or three weeks more 

 to 60 degrees. Keep the atmosphere moderately humid 

 all the time. Give them a place where they can have 

 full sun for it is necessary for the perfect development 

 of these roses in every way. Great care in the matter 

 of ventilation will be necessary so as to avoid mildew. 

 Give careful attention to fumigation to keep down the 

 green fly which is bound to make its appearance if not 

 guarded against. 



Dracaena indivtsa 



Where you want to increase your stock of this very 

 useful plant now is the time to sow. In raising Dra- 

 caena indivisa the seed should be sown early so that the 

 plants shall attain as much size the first year as possi- 

 ble. The seed can be sown in ordinary pans or flats; 

 put an inch of crocks or any rough material on its bot- 

 tom and over this a little sphagnum. The compost 

 should consist of equal parts of new loam, leaf mold and 

 about one-sixth of its bulk of sand, for it is essential that 

 the soil should be loose and open. Fill the pans or flats 

 within about half an inch of the top and press down mod- 

 erately firm, then water with a fine rose to settle the sur- 

 face and on this sow the seeds, but not too closely, or 

 the young plants will become crowded and consequently 

 drawn up before they are large enough to pot off. Cover 

 the seeds about twice their depth with the compost and 

 press firmly. Place the pans in a house where the tem- 

 perature stands anjTvhere from 60 to 65 degrees at night 



as a high temperature hastens germination. When the 

 young plants appear place them up close to the glass, 

 which will tend to make them more compact and sturdy. 

 They can remain in the seed pans until each plant has 

 several leaves when they can be moved into small pots, 

 using a more lumpy compost, and grown on. 



Forcing Lilacs 



These plants force better when they have had a proper 

 period of rest. The months of Januaiy and Feliruary 

 always give good results so after the first of the New 

 Year you can start a batch which will come along nicely. 

 When starting to force lilacs place them in the warmest 

 house you may have as they will stand a temperature as 

 high as 85 degrees and do fine. Give them a spraying 

 three or four times a day well through and among the 

 branches and damp down thoroughly so as to keep a 

 superabundance of atmospheric moisture around the 

 plants. For the first week or ten days they will not 

 take much water, but after this they will consume more 

 and should have attention along this line. When the 

 trusses have attained a length of about three inches the 

 temperature should be lowered and the spraying lessened. 

 As the flowers begin to open syringing should stop alto- 

 getlier and a drier air maintained by giving more venti- 

 lation and Icfs damping down. 



Hydrangeas 



Plants intended for Easter should now be brought in 

 and cleaned of the old foliage. It is always better to start 

 hydrangeas rather cool — say in a temperature of about 

 45 degrees at night for the first two or three weeks — 

 after which they can be raised 5 to 8 degrees. Give 

 them a good syringing two or three times a day so as to 

 cause a good hi-cak ail o\pr the plant and wlieii this is 

 secured they will stand all the way up to 70 degrees at 

 night with safety. This high temperature very often 

 has to be employed in holding hydrangeas at a rapid rate 

 of development so as to be in on time. It is always an 

 advantage to have them well out ten days before Easter 

 so that they can finish up in a cool house and will then 

 withstand much better the many vicissitudes which will 

 be their lot. When they begin to make roots and foliage 

 they will need lots of water at the roots, so continue 

 great watchfulness in this matter right up to the last. 

 From now on we will have changeable and trying 

 weather which will demand constant care with firing and 

 ventilation. 



Verbenas 



The florists who grow quantities of verbenas should 

 begin now in earnest to propagate. WTiere special col- 

 ors or named varieties are required propagation by cut- 

 tings is the only way. They can be placed in a cool end 

 of the propagating bed where they will root fine if kept 

 moist and shaded. When rooted they can be potted up 

 in good new soil and placed in a cool, but well-liglited 

 house where the temperature runs from 45 to 48 degrees 

 at night. 



Mr. Farrell's next notes will lie on following: Coelogyne cristata; Bedding Plant Cuttings; Cyclamen; Ferns from Spores; Poin- 



settias for Stock Plants; Spiraeas. 



