January 3, 1914 



HORTICULTURE 



ROSE GROWING UNDER GLASS 



, CONDOCTKD 



CONDOCTKD BT 



«„e.«ons ..^ou^r^^aae. ,n >.e w,^^^^^^^^^^^ 



J9I4 



It seems but yesterday that we began to get used to 

 writing 1913 and here it is 1-9-1-4. May the new year 

 bring all the readers of Horticulture all those desir- 

 able things that we all dream about. x\nd in business 

 let us profit by our mistakes in the year just passed, and 

 resolve to make less in the coming year. 



G)Id Weather and Shipping 



It is best not to take any chances with Jack Frost, on 

 these cold sharp mornings, when the mercury hovers 

 around ten or even lower. Use plenty of paper in the 

 boxes, and better still wrap the boxes on the outside with 

 paper. This will be better than paper inside, but do not 

 omit the inside newspapers for that reason. In tying 

 up the boxes use good strong rope that will not break, 

 and thus insure safe arrival of the flowers in the market. 

 Cracked ice can now be omitted. 



The Icebox 



Just because the weather is very cold that is no reason 

 why the icebox should be allowed to run too warm. 

 Many places will experience difficulty in getting good 

 ice, and often have to go to great expense to store it. 

 For the small grower whose wants are limited it is very 

 simple to make the reqiiired amount by getting some 

 cheap pans and filling them up with water for the night 

 and letting them freeze outside. Be sure, however, to 

 put a stick or a block of nice soft wood into each, or the 

 frost will tear the pans to pieces. The wood in the water 

 will take all the expansion, and there will be no tearing 

 as the water freezes. Keep the icebox about 48 or 50 

 degrees which will harden the roses very well, without 

 causing them to open too much. 



Benches for Young Stock 



Now that you will be selecting a bench or a house for 

 the young plants, remember that next year's success 

 largely depends on these plants so they'd better have the 

 best of everything, especially sunlight, which is very 

 essential. If you grow only a few plants, select a bench 



in the front where the sun will reach the plants for the 

 Idiigest time possible. If the bench is too low, raise it by 

 putting boards across on some 2x4's, thus making it 

 wider as well. Then use a little sand or screened ashes 

 to put over the boards, and it is then ready to receive the 

 plants. To keep the ashes from sifting through the 

 cracks between the boards, put some newspapers on the 

 bench before the ashes or the sand is put on. This layer 

 of paper may seem pretty thin, but it will hold all the 

 ashes or sand as long as it is not disturbed. 



"Watering During Cold Weather 



When the weather is very cold making it necessary to 

 fire very heavy, watch the benches very carefully, as they 

 are very likely to dry out here and there, especially if 

 all tlie benches are raised, and there is heat underneath. 

 Look for the dry spots in the bottom of the bench, as 

 well as the surface for often the bottom will dry out 

 more rapidly, and it is there where most of the roots 

 will be found. Water as often as necessary, and water 

 thoroughly when you do water. Never leave any dry , 

 spots in the benches behind you. There is no use wast- 

 ing a good deal of water, but be sure that you give the 

 plants enough to make it drip lightly through the- 

 benches. 



Bending Beauties When Tying 



It will be necessary to bend some of the long Beauty 

 shoots that have been growing and not setting. We find 

 it best to bend them towards the west, as that seems to 

 make a little difference in their growth. At any rate 

 get them all bent the same way or you will have a good 

 deal of trouble if you have to bend them down again. 

 In tying them after bending be sure to tie them well at 

 the bottom, or you will have a little trouble with them 

 when you syringe. 



Feeding the Plants 



MulcJi the plants where they need it, and do not use 

 any very rich fertilizers, especially those that are very 

 rich in nitrogen. We do not like to use anything too' 

 strong, especially on Beauties. Cow manure is about 

 tlie best that can be used as it is an all-around plant food, 

 and not a stimulant. A little liquid manure applied 

 once or twice a week will be very good, especially if the 

 plants are making plenty of new growth. 



Light sprinklings of lime and soot seem to be very much 

 to tlie liking of the onion if applied about fortnightly, 

 and sometimes' a good soaking of weak liquid manure 

 might be advantageously given. 



Exhibition onions sliould have finished their growth 

 early in August and the ripening process will be as- 

 sisted by withholding water, and accelerated by lifting 

 the onion slightly with a fork. Sliould ripening be 

 deferred too long and the fall rains commence before 

 the bulbs are harvested much damage by rotting may 

 ensue. As soon as the shrinking foliage indicates that 

 the bulbs are ripening, remove them from the open 



ground to some airy loft; or put some boards in the 

 bottom of the frame and partially cover with the sash 

 during good weather, and completely protect them from 

 rain. Remember that these large onions are easily 

 bruised and once bruised will soon rot; — '^landle with. 

 care" should be our motto at all times. 



