66 



HORTICULTURE 



July 15, 1911 



paratively light. There is a fairly constant call for 

 these choice lilies, especially for funeral work. Use 6 

 or 7-inch pots and let them start in as cool a place as 

 you may have, to develop good root action before the 

 tops start. A good place to put them is on a cool 

 cellar floor. Water them whenever they seem dry and 

 when the growth show above the pots give them a place 

 where they will have full light. Be on the watch for 

 aphis so that they will not get a foothold, or the result 

 will be deformed and discolored blooms. 



Mr. FarrelFs next notes will lie on the following: Callas; 

 Mulching Mixture; Pansies ; Painting and Repairing; Eambler 

 Buses ; Solanums. 



Summer Flowering Orchids 



The accompanying picture shows some of the sum- 

 mer-flowering orchids now in bloom among the Duke's 

 Park collection, at Somerville, New Jersey. The 

 group is made up of such species as Cattleya Gaskel- 

 liana, C. gigas, C. Harrisoniana, C. Mendelii and C. 



Group of Summer Flowering Orchids 



Warneri. with Oncidium crispum, 0. Forbesii, and 0. 

 citrosmum. and Epidendrum vitellinum, all of which 

 when arranged together make a pleasing group. 



The other picture is a Digbyana hybrid, cross be- 

 tween Brassavola Digbyana, and Cattleya Mendelii, 

 usually called L-C. Digbyano-Mendelii, and which I 

 think is one of the best, if not the best of all the Digby- 

 ana crosses. The two flowers shown here are pure 

 white except for the throat, which has the markings as 

 in the Mendelii throat. The flowers each measure 914 

 in. across, and the lip 4 in. at widest part, with a very 

 heavy fringe. 



Now that the summer months are here and the sun is 

 about as hot as it will be, and most of the fall and 

 winter flowering orchids have their new growths coming 

 along, great care should be taken to protect them from 

 the direct rays of the sun. The C. Percivalianas and 

 Trianaes will be more advanced than Schroderae, and 

 root action will be more free with them. Therefore 

 they should never be allowed to dry out so as to cause 

 the plant to suffer. Again we very often find, where 

 the plants have a quantity of young roots on the sur- 

 face of the peat, that they are very often eaten by 

 snails, and if not looked after the snails will soon clean 



the young growth of all its roots. While there are 

 many ways to catch the snails, I always claim that it is 

 far better for one to look over his plants at night as 

 this is the time the snails get their work in. Although 

 it may take a little extra time, it will pay in the end 

 where snails are bad, for a few nights of going over will 

 soon do away with a lot of them. 



Phalaenopsis will be making new leaves now, and 

 should be kept growing and given all the light you can 

 without burning them v As the young leaves keep push- 

 ing up an outlook should be kept for any injurious in- 

 sects, as they are very tender. A little time taken each 

 morning to look over each plant will go a long way to 

 make them a success. Just as soon as the C. Gaskel- 

 liana, Mendelii. and gigas are through flowering, would 

 be the best time to repot or tup dress them as needed. 



L-C. Digbyano-Mendelii 



Gigas should be as near the light as possible and kept 

 a little on the dry side after potting, as they seem to 

 break better after a short rest. 



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Forcing Strawberries 



Editor of Hortictltire : 



Dear Sir : — I read with interest your notes by G. H. 

 Penson on varieties of strawberries for forcing. 



Marshall is my best early. Excelsior is best with 

 some of my neighbors. Commonwealth is an extra 

 good second early. For late forcing Goldsborough will 

 be found very satisfactory. The long foot stalks en- 

 ables it to hold the fruit away up and out from the 

 pot so that you can spray longer to keep clear of red 

 spider without causing loss of fruit by damping. 



Stamford, Conn. W. M. 



