December 23, 1911 



HORTICULTURE 



895 



Fruits and Vegetables Under Glass 



LATE QUAPES 



Now is the I value good grapes. Right at 



Christmas time we appreciate them as much as on a hot 

 summer evening. With Buitable varieties planted and 

 proper treatment it is an easy matter to have good plump 

 berries on into the Nevi "i ear. Knowing the right sort 

 to plant for this purpose i- half the battle, as mosl late 

 grapes can be grown as mid-season to early varieties but 

 to put the shoe on the other foot means a short fit. The 

 best known and consequenth mosl grown late grape is 

 Black Alicante — easily distinguished by the heavy shoul- 

 ders carried by most bunches. This variety will hang 

 than any other and seldom does a berry go wrong 

 in it. Like most late grapes it has extra thick skin 

 which is rather unpalatable, but is the secret of its keep- 

 ing powers. A vigorous grower, of lasting constitution, 

 sete verj freelj and stands the hot summer sun with- 

 out a scald or burn. Undoubtedly the latest and best 

 ng late grape grown. 



I.aih hnwns Seedling is ol'lcn coupled with the fore- 

 going, a variety of more recenl introduction, carrying 

 a -mallei- bunch of slightlj better Savored berries. Ai 

 certain stages of its growth it is liable to burn and 

 Bcald, consequently is not so reliable. Gros Colman is a 

 well known late grape, its large foliage and magnifi- 

 cent berries at once attracting attention. This grape 

 takes a long time to ripen and will soon show signs of 

 over cropping or poor treatment. The fruit must be 

 thoroughly ripe before using. It is second-rate in flavoT 

 at all times, but best just before the berries would 

 shrivel. Often assumes a reddish tint which does not 

 make it look so inviting as Alicante. 



Apply Towers is one we rind keeps well up to Decem- 

 ber 1st. The flavor is superior to any of the foregoing 

 up to this date. It ripens three weeks to a month ear- 

 lier than they, but keep- well while hanging on the 

 vines. Medium size in bunch and berry, the llesh of 

 which is sweet and juicy. This would be an acquisition 

 to any late house furnishing first-quality fruit before 

 the others come in. 



Late white grapes are not so numerous. Muscat of 

 Alexandria will keep a long time after ripening, but 

 cannot be classed as a late grape. Lady lint f has many 

 good points to recommend it. The flavor is excellent, of 

 medium size of bunch and berry, sets very freely and 

 keeps for a considerate time without shriveling. This 

 grape can be had in great shape for Christmas. When 

 the object is to keep the crop as late as possible, keep the 

 house cold through the early spring, leaving full air 

 on night and day. The buds can be allowed to burst 

 before any set temperature need be applied, after which 

 it should not fall below 45. Grow them as cool as ad- 

 visable right along and alt. r the fruit is ripe in the fall 

 gradually drop the house down to 45. Keep the atmos- 

 phere <li> and whenever rain or fogs make it damp, 

 keep a genii! warmth in the pipes. With ripe fruit 

 hanging, at no time should they be allowed to become 

 real hot. Let the temperature drop first. Excessive 

 fire heat causes the berries to shrivel. A gentle heat 

 with air on at all times should be the axiom. 



POT VINES AND PEACHES 



Pot vines and peaches started the first of the month 

 should now have their temperatures raised to 45 to 50 

 at night. This will be sufficient for the peach trees 

 until they are in flower. Keep the houses well moist 

 to encourage the trees to break, and shut up early enough 

 to raise the temperature to 65 or 70. Trees that are 

 anyway sluggish in bursting their buds can be treated to 

 a little steam in thi phere by spraying water on 



the hot pipes. 



TYING IN PEACH TREES 



Nothing is more pleasing in a fruit range than a per- 

 fectly shaped peach or nectarine tree tied on to a trellis. 

 Often it takes some years to attain the desired effect — 

 an evenly balanced and symmetrical tree, covering the 

 whole trellis with good fruiting wood. Nor can this be 

 attained with winter tying alone. During the whole 

 growing season this end must be in view. The com- 

 mencement is right from the time of disbudding and 

 continues right through the season. When a growth is 

 ■'heeled in" its position and size at the season's end 

 should be carried in the "mind's eye." In so doing you 

 can see what wood will be discarded at the next winter 

 pruning and so you are ahead of your job and can train 

 i hem in the wa\ i lii -\ should go. Every growth should 

 be Kepi straight and no two should cross. The bottom 

 of a tree should always be a first consideration as this is 

 not usually abundantly furnished with strong young 

 growths. See that as much good wood as possible is laid 

 in I ere and the center will always (ill itself up. It is 

 advisable to leave a small space in the center on this 

 account. The object, in tying a tree thus is that it 

 should look like the ribs of a gigantic fan — no two 

 branches meeting each other if they were to be extended. 

 To commence, t ie the -t ronger branches into position first 

 with strong string and the Bmaller ones will find their 

 places afterward-. Leave room enough in the ties for 

 the branches to swell and keep them from pressing hard 

 against any part of the metal trellis by placing a thin 

 lathe or piece of old hose pipe cut through the center 

 between them, othervi tse they are liable to "gum" as the 

 metal becomes hot with the summer sun. 



EFFECT OF WATER ON MUSHROOMS 



Watering a mushroom bed is usually conceded to be 

 the last drive for a crop. Beds having cropped for 

 some considerable period will gradually wear out and 

 watering will put new life into them for a time. This 

 has a peculiar effect on a few of the smaller fungi that 

 may be just emerging from the soil. They are unable 

 to live in the sodden soil for a few hours until it can dry 

 out a little, turn black and are useless. As long as a 

 fair amount of mushrooms are coming, refrain from 

 watering as this certain loss is bound to be felt. Were 

 it possible to keep the soil half moist during the whole 

 time the greatest results would be achieved, as it is al- 

 ways noticeable how a crop comes through after a water- 

 ing and the bed has got to this state of "half and half." 

 When watering use water having a temperature of 65 to 

 ', and soak the bed. 



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