from plague per week. I didn't stop as I expect to spend a QS 

 week in Bombay on the way back and am anxious to reach 

 Ludhiana. The trip from Madras to Bombay was a hot one. 

 The journey is across the barren plain of the Decca plateau 

 and the winds scorch. It was 102—104 in the shade. I 

 bought a sola- tope (sun hat) in Madras and packed my Manila 

 hat. With this and the judicious use of a few Hindoostani 

 sentences, travelling has been more comfortable. I am not 

 bothered so much by guides and beggars as I was. One would 

 like to give them something — blind, maimed and lepers, old 

 men, women, and children in scores — but it would take a for- 

 tune. Happily the natives themselves are charitable. — I have 

 stopped planning for I find I am no good at it. I telegraphed 

 to Ludhiana from Madras and asked them to answer to Bom- 

 bay. When I reached Bombay I had to choose between wait- 

 ing two days for the answer and another boat; or taking this 

 one. 



He described his meeting with the Indian division of his 

 family — he had not seen them in more than ten years — in a 

 letter out of Ludhiana (May 4, 1905) : 



How can I express the concentrated joy of the last two days? 

 My father and mother were so glad to see me; and I was so glad 

 to see them! Then my sister Lillian with Mr McCuskey and 

 my little niece Margaret came up on the first train from Um- 

 balla. Unfortunately, Nellie is up at Woodstock School at 

 Landour. — Just like me — I find that I chose the longest, 

 hottest, and costliest route to the Pan jab but I did it on the 

 advice of a friend who said he knew. Mamma was expecting 

 me two days before I could possibly have arrived and insisted 

 on meeting every train. Then on the way up from Karachi 

 (may the gods protect me from another trip through the Sind 

 deserts!) I made a botch of everything by telegraphing that 

 I would arrive Wednesday when actually I arrived Tuesday. 

 It was just as well though, for I surprised them and saved them 

 a trip to the station in the burning heat. 



The family had plans for keeping me here five or six 

 months! It was hard to have to disappoint them but I think 

 they understand now why I cannot stay more than four or 

 six weeks. . . . My mother just remarked that she was "very 



