ADIEU TO ST. KILDA. 129 



in ample time for us to breakfast on board. At 

 eight o'clock next morning she had not hove in 

 sight, and when time dragged heavily along till 

 the stroke of ten was upon us we were all hungry, 

 and I must confess I was a wee bit home- sick, as 

 everything looked so cheerless and dismal. 



About eleven o'clock the Ilebridean steamed into 

 sight to our great satisfaction, and we speedily 

 boarded her in search of breakfast. 



In due course we shook hands with all the natives, 

 except two or three who were going with us ; and 

 a hearty hand-shake it was. We had endeared our- 

 selves to them by frank dealing and readiness to 

 go where they went, endure what they endured, 

 give tobacco and sweets, or accept whey and bannock 

 in the same simple spirit. 



This line of conduct is one the value of which 

 I have proved over and over again, and would 

 earnestly impress upon every young field naturalist. 

 It is the royal road to all honest men's hearts, and 

 will help one to much useful knowledge that will 

 forever remain hidden from the man who believes 

 in the cynicism of "every man at his price." 



The 8t. Kildans have sent us their "love" by 

 nearly every fishing-boat which has put into Village 

 Bay since we left. 



As we steamed away and left the islands in our 

 wake, I must confess I felt sorry to leave the many 

 genuine friends we had made, the majestic rocks 

 and their teeming myriads of birds, and turned again 

 and again to watch the lonely crags grow smaller 

 and dimmer upon the horizon. 



At Benbecula I parted with my brother, who was 



going to Skye to stay with our enthusiastic natural 



history friend H. A. Macpherson, and bade adieu to my 



companions of tinned provisions and string bed-quilts. 



J 



