96 STATE BOARD OF AGRICULTURE. 



out into the spaces between the rows. These are easily disposed of, but 

 those which run lengthwise of the row present a harder proposition. 



We use a common hoe with the sides cut off, leaving it about three and 

 one-half inches wide, and with this shave a narrow strip crosswise the 

 row, and then leave a strip of about equal width. This tool in the hands 

 of a careful man seems to be the most satisfactory method I have ever 

 tried. It not only removes the superfluous plants, but throws the runners 

 and half-rooted plants out into the spaces where the rolling cutter will 

 destroy them. Do this as early in the season as you can secure the requi- 

 site number of plants, so that those that are left may have the advantage 

 of the increased space as long as possible to fit themselves for next sea- 

 son's labors. 



MULCHING : ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES. 



The next question that presents itself is that of mulching. There are 

 advantages and disadvantages connected with it. The advantages are: 

 Mulch protects the plants from freezing and thawing and in some soils 

 from "heaving" also. It preserves moisture during the ripening season 

 and keeps the berries clean. In its decay it adds humus to the soil. 



The disadvantages are, first, the cost of application; second, greater 

 danger of frost at blooming; third, later ripening of fruit, and also 

 danger of introducing grass and weeds. Sum up the pros and cons and 

 decide for yourself whether or not to mulch. Much will depend on your 

 soil, and whether you are in special danger from spring frost, or drouth, 

 or whether your market pays best for the early berry or the late one. 



If you are growing only for home use, the rest of your labors in the 

 strawberry patch are easy, but with the commercial grower the harvesting 

 and care calls for more care and judgment and push, and offers more 

 annoyances than does the growing. Experience, foresight, judgment, 

 patience and honesty are required and the only safe way is to begin on a 

 small scale and grow into the business. Visit the market occasionally and 

 see how your fruit looks at the other end of the route, and also see how 

 your competitors' shipments look, and study wherein you can improve. 



Deal fairly with the commission merchant, grocer or private consumer 

 who buys your fruit. Try to arrange for a succession of small fruits to 

 give continuous employment to your best pickers. 



We usually pick but one year, and then plow under iand sow to clover, 

 or plant to potatoes, according to the fertility of the soil. I think it is as 

 cheap usually to grow a new bed as to properly clean and care for an old 

 one, and the first crop is usually the best, especially with the more 

 productive varieties. 



OTHER SMALL FRUITS. 



So much for the strawberry ; now let us consider very briefly the other 

 small fruits. There are three successful periods for transplanting the 

 blackcap raspberry. The first is in late autumn and the plants should be 

 mulched to protect them the first winter. I would not advise this practice 

 on heavy soil. The next jjeriod is the one most generally chosen, which is 

 in early spring, as soon as the ground is fit, and before young shoots 

 have started. The third is after the young shoots have grown four or 

 five inches. They can be moved short distances very successfully at this 

 time. Plant them in furrows four to five inches deep, the furrows six to 



