TWELFTH ANNUAL YEAR BOOK— PART X 47B 



ment. The method of curing is there described substantially as follows: 

 The flesh surface is sprinkled with fine saltpeter until the hams are as 

 white as though covered by a moderate frost; or, say, use 3 or 4 pounds 

 of saltpeter to 1,000 pounds of hams. Immediately salt with fine Liver- 

 pool salt, cover'ng the entire surface. Pack the hams in bulk, not deeper 

 than 3 feet. In ordinary weather they should remain thus for 3 days. 

 Then break bulk and resalt with the fine salt and again pack in bulk, and 

 each ham should rema'n in bulk one day for each pound the ham weighs; 

 that is, a 10-pound ham should remain 10 days. The hams are then taken 

 up and thoroughly cleaned by washing in warm water. When nearly 

 dry rub the entire surfa-^e with fine black pepper. The hams should now 

 be hung up and gradually and slowly smoked for 30 or 40 days with 

 hickory or red oak. When the smoking is completed they should be 

 repeppered and bagged to guard against vermin. 



It is stated that "these hams improve with age, and may be con- 

 sidered perfect when one year old." 



Commenting upon methods of curing hams. Dr. Magruder says: 

 The saltpeter is used to give the ham a good, red color, to make it firm, 

 and a^so as a preservative. The salt, of course, is used ns a preservative, 

 and plenty of it should be used, as the excess will not hurt, and not enough 

 will allow the meat to spoil. Vv'^hen packing in bulk, be sure to press the 

 hams into a plump, symmetrical shape, and do not have the bulk over 

 3 feet high, otherwise the weight will flatten out the lower hams and 

 spoil their shape. The plumpest Berkshire ham can be spoiled in shape 

 by improper packing. Pepper and sugar are added, presumably to im- 

 prove their flavor, but I have never seen that they improve them any, 

 and I advise against sugar or molasses, as it is more trouble and attracts 

 flies. The pepper may be used if desired, as it will do no harm and may 

 help to keep off skippers. The borax is added to keep off flies, which lay 

 the eggs, which hatch into skippers, and if properly applied is a sure 

 preventive. Bagging is for the same purpose, but unless done early and 

 thoroughly before the flies come about it is ineffective. It is troublesome. 

 The smoking, which should be done in damp weather, is supposed to 

 serve several purposes. First, to dry the meat and thus make it keep 

 better; second, to deposit a little creosote and other ingredients from the 

 burning wood on the bacon, which improves its keeping qualities, and 

 also supposedly improves its flavor. In my opinion, the object in curing 

 should be to p'-'=serve the ham, keep it sound, and then let it retain all of 

 its natural taste and flavor and not try to add flavor and taste. The nat- 

 ural ones, when preserved in their purity, are good enough without trying 

 to add to them artificially. 



In hanging meat care should be taken not to allow any two pieces to 

 touch, fcr if so they are liable to be infested with skippers. Hams should 

 not to be eaten until at least six months old. When two years old they 

 have reached their prime. Many claim they still continue to improve 

 for many years, but I very much doubt it. 



