258 



THE INDIA RUBBER WORLD 



[M u i, 1903. 



LOOKING DOWN UPON MALTRA1A FROM THE TRAIN. 



passengers, all going south and most of them interested in plant- 

 ing projects. As was natural, the Americans and English grav- 

 itated together, and I heard many interesting facts concerning 

 the country and much concerning rubber planting. The verdict 

 of those who were not directly interested in the business seem- 

 ed to be that there was nothing in it, and that rubber trees 

 could never be grown. Indeed, one passenger said flatly that 

 he had been in the country a number of years, had never seen 

 a rubber tree, and didn't believe they 

 could be grown anyhow. This did not 

 seem to disturb the serenity of the 

 planters, who didn't argue the matter 

 at all, but let the others talk. We 

 passed a rather wearisome day on the 

 train, stopping occasionally for meals 

 and getting them served more and 

 more in pioneer fashion. I had intend- 

 ed to stop ofT at Tierra Blanca, in the 

 vicinity of which are large plantations, 

 but learning that the men whom I most 

 wished to see were absent, I left that (or a later visit. Finally, 

 at 1 o'clock in the morning, we reached Achotal, the train re- 

 turning at once and leaving us standing on the platform of the 

 only frame building in the place, the depot, which was promptly 

 locked. 



I am moved to tell of my experience at Achotal, not to deter 

 the timid or comfort loving from venturing into this part of the 

 country, but as a bit of history, for within a very few months it 

 will cease to be a pioneer railroad terminal, with its tramps, its 

 native workmen, its flourishing cantina, and will settle down as 

 a safe, prosaic, Mexican way station. In fact this change was 

 almost due when I was there, for track had been hastily laid 

 and construction trains run down to Santa Lucretia, where it is 

 to join with the National Tehuantepec railway. This construe 

 tion train, by the way, we were to take some time about 6 o'clock 

 in the morning, and after riding some 1 5 kilometers, I planned 

 to stop at Santa Rosa, and thus reach a large private rubber 

 lantation operated by an oldtime friend of mine. 

 To be left in a town like Achotal at 1 o'clock in the morning 



with the knowledge that it would be hard work to get a 

 ROUQHINQ (j e( j j s not a particularly cheerful prospect. One of my 



planter friends, Mr. W. L. Adams, of Ixtal. however, 

 whom I shall always remember gratefully, piloted me across 

 the muddy track, walked me over a narrow, springy plank 

 which rested against a steep bank, and I saw fronting me the 

 few palm thatched native huts which make up the town. En- 



MOUNTAIN CLIMBING ENGINE. 



tering one of these we found that there was no room at all, every 

 available space being taken by canvas cots and conscientious 

 snorers. Leading me further up the hill, however, he forced 

 his way into another hut, roused the owner, and finally secured 

 for me a cot. This I took possession of and prepared to make 

 myself comfortable, as had a half dozen Mexicans, each of 

 whom had a similar resting place. 



All were not asleep, however ; in fact my nearest neigh- 

 bor, a muscular young mozo* was just disrobing. While he un- 

 dressed, his hat, which lay on the cot, showed that it was pre- 

 empted. Everything was peaceful, the snores of the sleepers, 

 the stamping of the horses outside, the grunting of the pigs 

 that had come in the open doorway and were seeking what 

 they could devour, «nd the scratching of the flea tormented 

 dogs, being the only sounds of life. Breaking in upon all this 

 peace came the big Swede, with a very substantial "jag" and 

 took possession of the mozo's cot, throwing his hat upon the floor, 

 whereupon the native drew his knife preparatory to a pointed 

 argument. Not that I cared particularly for the mozo, or for 

 the Swede, but in the interests of fair play I interfered, telling 

 the latter that if he insisted upon taking the cot, the mozo 

 should have mine, whereupon he went out with some grum- 

 bling, and wrapping myself in my blanket I went to sleep, feel- 

 ing that I had done a good turn for a dark-skinned, downtrod- 

 den brother. I was not to rest long, however, for I was awak- 

 ened by the reentrance of the Swede, who came to inquire 

 politely if the strangeness of my sur- 

 roundings kept me from sleeping. I as- 

 sured him they did not, and he depart- 

 ed satisfied and I dropped off to sleep 

 again. Suddenly, however, I was awak- 

 ened by the feeling that some one was 

 looking me in the face and opening my 

 eyes I saw the mozo with his face about 

 three inches from mine and his hand 

 outstretched toward my breast pocket. 

 I have forgotten just what I said to 

 him, but it was most emphatic, and he 

 went back and lay down, while I, wrapping my blanket tightly 

 about me, dropped into another doze, but not for long. Back 

 came the Swede, with more of a "jag "than ever, and sat on 

 the side of my cot and wished aloud that he had a place to lie 

 down, so I got up and gave him my cot and went and sat in 

 the doorway and smoked and thought. 



* A common " hot country " appellation for an agricultural laborer. 



SNOW CAPPED ORIZABA. 



