SEVENTH ANNUAL YEAR BOOK— PART VII. 315 



palate and he thinks it perfect, that class of butter when found In 

 New York would not score extras. It has got to have something about 

 It that when you bring the trier up and smell of the butter you will 

 think of good butter, and not as one of the speakers said today 

 "buther." 



If I could only tell you the kind of flavor they want there. They 

 want a lactic acid flavor. That is the flavor they want, and I want to 

 tell you it is a hard matter to produce that in creameries from now 

 until spring. In the months of May, June, July and August the lactic 

 acid flavor is quite pronounced in our butter down East, but after that 

 season has gone by the lactic acid flavor fairly disappears, and one 

 buyer goes to another and says, "there is no good butter on the market," 

 just because it lacks that rich, high aroma. 



Now I do not want to say, and do not want to go on record as 

 saying, that this rich, mild creamy flavor is not a good keeping qual- 

 ity, but I want to go on record that it is a good keeping quality, pro- 

 viding there is enough lactic acid bacteria in there. There the trade 

 has been educated to a higher grade of butter, that is, to a higher fla- 

 vored butter, and we must meet the demand for it. 



When you sample butter it should be free from any foreign flavor, 

 an oily flavor, or vegetable flavor, or fishy flavor, or any flavor that 

 would detract your attention from a good piece of butter, or a flavor 

 that is obnoxious to the buyer. He does not want it. He just wants a 

 flavor that makes him think of butter and not "buther." If you go 

 to New York restaurants and New York hotels you will be surprised 

 at the quality of butter they give you to eat. I have not yet been in 

 a single restaurant or hotel but I got extra butter, butter that would 

 Bcore extra, 93, 94 and 95 points. That is the kind of butter they want 

 you to produce in order to satisfy the best trade of New York City. 



Leaving the flavor, we get down to body. The body of butter must 

 be a stiff butter; it should be waxy; at the same time it should be close 

 in grain, but not too close and smooth, so when you bore your trier it 

 should be clean on the back of it. If a few "tears," as we call it, are 

 present on the trier that is all right. That is no indication there is 

 too much moisture or anything of that kind. That is acceptable to the 

 trade and in fact it is better than to have it too dry. The body should 

 be in such shape so that the merchant, when he sells it and puts his 

 ladle in, he can cut it out clean. It shoujd have enough moisture in 

 it so as to do that. It should not be sticky; butter should not be over- 

 worked. Overworking has done more damage, I think, to the flavor of 

 butter than any other thing I can think of. I have watched the body 

 of the butter in particular, and I want to tell the buttermakers here 

 that the body is responsible for almost one-half of the butter that is 

 good to drop out of extras, just because it has been overworked. We 

 used to have a lot of mottled butter and we preached against mottled 

 butter, criticised the mottled butter and said "a trifle more working 

 will overcome the mottles," which was true, but it seems to me this 

 has been followed too far; in order to make sure they have allowed 

 the rollers to whirl in the churns too long and have made the butter 

 salvy and got it in such stage that it was greasy and flshy. I believe 



