148 



THE INDIA RUBBER WORLD 



[February i, 1905. 



zards, like all Central American towns. It also has several 

 fine Castilloa trees, and not far away an extensive CastiUoa 

 plantation. The latter is known as "Las Margaritas" and is 

 owned by the alcalde of Lis Minas. It consists of about 20 

 hectares of land, planted with rubber and coflfee. There are 

 said to be some 25,000 Caslilloas. that for age would average 

 about three years. One tree that was ten years old was 16 

 inches in diameter, and bled freely, but the latex was waxy, 

 and did not coagulate until the wax was worked out. This 

 was not the case with all, and I think the difference was indi- 

 vidual. 



In our conversation with the Indians we learned all that they 

 knew of the land just explored. They confessed that they did 

 not like to go over there as they were afraid of getting lost. 

 They also boasted of the times when their grandfathers crossed 

 the mountains and, filling canoes with latex, used them as co- 

 agulating vessels, and very hesitatingly, and only after very much 

 persuasion, they told of the gold some brought out and of ihe 

 "lost mines" that had once produced such riches for the 

 Spaniards before the Indians rose and massacred them. 



Fourth of July came while we were In Las Minas, but It would 

 take pages to tell of the fiesta that we 

 gave the town, and of the baile they gave 

 us in return. At this balle the alcalde 

 played the first violin, and was accompa- 

 nied by a mandolin, a triangle, and a native 

 drum. All day long the whole population 

 were shouting Viva Independencia Esta- 

 dos Unidos ' and we In turn Viva Indepen- 

 dencia Panama ! — while Amigos Ameri- 

 canos and Amigos /"(iwa— something or 

 other — were swapped back and forth most 

 fraternally. 



Visiting the old Spanish mine, the 

 Golden Cock, now being developed by 

 Americans, we learned from the natives 

 that at times a golden cock crows, and 

 then all the dead men killed by a cavein 

 during the Spanish occupation, groan in 

 concert. A golden bull that Is somewhere 

 Inside of the mine also has a habit of roar- 

 ing when certain calamities are due. 



From Las Minas came the journey to 

 Pese, a town of some 500 inhabitants. 

 Here the Pioneer also had a store and his 



home, where we were entertained most royally. We did not 

 tarry long, however, as the Prospector was already suffering 

 from painful tropical bolls and it seemed necessary to get where 

 there were physicians. From Pes6 we went to Chitr^ on horse 

 or mule back — all except the invalid, who rode in a bull cart — 

 and finally arrived at Innocentias Hotel. I was about as near 

 a wreck as one could be, for Chlquita on level ground developed 

 into the fastest, hardest galted little trotter that I have ever seen. 

 She simply would not canter and in her trot kept up with the 

 galloping horses and pounded me almost to jelly. 



At Chltre we expected to find xMtAlmirante, but she was not 

 there. After waiting two days we took passage on the Quartros 

 Hermanos, the Prospector being brought aboard on a mattress. 

 It must not be thought he was the only damaged one, for all of 

 us were somewhat battered. I had a scalp wound an inch long 

 that I had secured by going through a doorway at Innocentias 

 without stooping enough to avoid the sharp tiles, the Scout had 

 a cracked rib, because his horse jammed him under a leaning 

 tree, and the Commodore had a touch of fever. 



The Quartros Hermanos got away late, by poling down the 



narrow muddy Parita river i^ miles to the bay. At the river's 

 mouth we met the Almirante, and, leaving the Commodore to 

 guard the luggage, boarded our own boat. It was hard work 

 to get El Capitan to turn about and follow the other schooner 

 — why, 1 don't know — but It was finally accomplished. But 

 alas, hardly were the schooners a quarter of a mile from shore 

 when both were aground. Half an hour later one could walk 

 on the hard black sand from one boat to the other. It would 

 be flood tide by midnight and if there was wind that would 

 mean a race for Panama. So I offered our captain $10, sil- 

 ver, if he got in first. By 11 our boat was again on even 

 keel ; ten minutes later was under way, the breeze freshening 

 every minute. It finally got so fresh that I could not sleep on 

 deck but went below. With the exception of one hour's calm 

 the wind held all the next day and at midnight blew us into 

 Panama harbor. But the shrewd old Portuguese captain of 

 the Quartros Hermanos beat us an hour by getting to the wind- 

 ward and then sailing like a streak. 



It was just sunrise as we dropped anchor in the bay just op- 

 posite the Hotel Marina, from which picturesque hostelry 

 many boats put off to secure the job of putting us and our be- 

 longings ashore. This task was accom- 

 plished after much haggling, and within 

 an hour we stood on the beach surrounded 

 by our luggage, an object of much interest 

 to a score of watermen, half as many dogs, 

 and a huge drove of half wild pigs that had 

 just been unloaded from a small freight 

 schooner. One more hour on the beach 

 suffered to purchase porters and a cart — I 

 say " purchase " advisedly — and start our 

 belongings toward the hotel. 



Once again at the Hotel Grand Central, 

 where were stored most of our clothes, we 

 prepared to assume the habiliments of 

 civilization. The first thing was to Induce 

 the hotel management to open the bath- 

 room and furnish water. After a forenoon, 

 of persuasion that was finally accom- 

 plished, and we felt better, even if the 

 hotel employes did not. Then followed 

 a visit to the cable office, a second explo- 

 ration of the city, and preparations for pas- 

 sage to New York, on the good ship Yuca- 

 tan, which was to sail, and did sail, on the 

 day following. 



In our journeys about the city and along the line of the canal 

 I tried as far as possible to get close to the people — that Is, in the 

 way of mental, not physical contact. Of the native Panaman- 

 ians I found some exceedingly well educated and active, sane, 

 business men. They were, almost without exception, most 

 pronounced in favor of the annexation of the young republic 

 by the United States. The mass of the people, however, ap- 

 parently wish only to be let alone, and resent the bustling ways 

 of the Americans. I should say also that there was an exag- 

 gerated idea, in their minds, concerning the prowess of the 

 Americans, particularly the trim looking marines who walked 

 the streets as if each Individual could put an army to flight. 



That the canal would be put through and in less time than is 

 generally believed all of the business men were agreed, and 

 that both Colon and Panama city would one day, under the 

 American engineers, be free from yellow fever and as habitable 

 and safe as .Singapore or Havana none doubted, but that either 

 city would be of great commercial importance once the canal 

 was finished was not predicted. 



N PACK BEARER 



