FOURTH ANNUAL YEAR BOOK — PART VI. 357 



so there will be no danger of slipping. Now. with halter, to which is 

 attached fifteen feet of rope, gently work around the colt, caressing him 

 as much as possible, so as to win his confidence, and when he sees you 

 are not going to hurt him you can usually put the halter on without any 

 trouI)le. Now, presuming this colt to be one that will pull on the halter, 

 lake the loose end of the rope and pass it through a hole in the manger 

 or around a post, back between the tore legs, around the girth, and tie. 

 The colt is now tied by both head and body. Step l)ack and lot him fight 

 it out, which will take only a short time. And v/hen tied in this way 

 there is no danger of injury, as is sometimes the case when tied by the 

 head only. As soon as he gives up pulling go to him and caress him, 

 and by so doing give him to understand that you are his friend. It is 

 well to leave him tied for some little time, after which he may be led. 



Now, loading is a very important part. A horse well broken to lead 

 is more attractive, easier to handle, and will command a higher price in 

 the market than one that is not. In training to lead, always teach the 

 colt to walk beside you and never allow him to follow along behind, as is 

 often done. This can be done by taking a whip in the left hand and 

 touching him up a little from behind. A few lessons of this kind will 

 teach him that the proper place for him is beside you and he will not 

 want to be any place else. After being well trained to walk beside you, 

 encourage him to trot. This can also be done by the use of the whip. 

 It is well to have the lead shank in the mouth of the colt so he will not 

 get away from you. 'In leading, keep the colt's head well up so as to 

 make him look attractive and stylish; also keep his head as straighc 

 ahead of him as possible. Do not make the lessons too long or tiresome, 

 as short lessons, and often, are much better. 



After the colt is well broken to the halter so he will show to good 

 advantage, the next step is to get him used to the bitting harness. This 

 consists of an open bridle with check, surcingle, crupper, and side lines, 

 which go from the surcingle to the bit to prevent him from turning his 

 head to either side. Put this on him and check him up, not too high at 

 first, but raising him a little each day untill the desired height to make 

 him look attractive. For this lesson let him have a yard to go about as 

 he pleases. When well accustomed to the bit and check put on long 

 lines instead of the short side lines and teach him to drive, start and 

 stop at the word, also to back. This is a very important part of the 

 breaking. It is very easy to train a colt to back, but you must not get in 

 too big a hurry or failure will likely be the result. Encourage him to 

 back a step by pulling on the lines, at the same time telling him to back. 

 As soon as he makes a step backwards, slacken on the lines and say 

 "Whoa." Repeat this until he will back when told, which will take but 

 a short time if properly done. 



The next step is to hitch in harness. This may be done either single 

 or double. If single, they should be hitched in some kind of a breaking 

 cart. This need not be one bought at a high price, but can be made 

 by using two wheels, of a light wagon' with an axle to which attach two 

 poles to act as shafts; arrange a seat, and the cart is ready for use. 



