IRISH GARDENING 



175 



texture, for ]jreference a strong clay-loam sloping 

 to the south-east, south, or south-west by deepen- 

 ing the surface so as to afford drainage, and a 

 storage for moisture, will — provided the sub- 

 sequent surface cultivation is attended to as it 

 should be — return a higher percentage of profit 

 than most other crops or money in the banks. 

 The importance of situation and shelter have 

 never been better illustrated than during the 

 present year — first, on the 25th of May, the result 

 of avoiding low-lying positions subject to frost, 

 and on tlie 14th September the effect of shelter 

 from land or other trees. Planters should keep 

 in view the best positions for the different sorts 

 of apples, pears, and plums, having regard to the 

 size of the trees when full grown, assisting cross- 

 fertilization, and that they may as far as possible 

 l)e self-sheltering without being overcrowded 

 when they attain to full size. 



Where the facilities for marketing and other 

 conditions are favourable for growing bush fruits 

 or .strawberries between the trees for the first 

 few years, they afford a quick and generally very 

 remunerative returns for the initial expenditure 

 involved in planting. Where sufficient juvenile 

 labour is available to handle the crop, black 

 currants is one of the most profitable under crops 

 for orchards planted principally to Bramley on 

 the crab stock. There is a general tendency to 

 plant Braniley on the crab stock too close 

 together ; being a robust grower it requires on 

 medium land at least 24 feet apart each way, 

 and where the conditions are more favourable for 

 growing big trees with Grenadier or Lane's Prince 

 Albert between, for the first ten or twelve years 

 it requires 28 to 30 feet a])art each way. Where 

 catch crop])ing with small fruit cannot be under- 

 taken and profitably dealt with, satisfactory 

 results can be obtained by cropping between the 

 trees with vegetables, potatoes, turnips, or 

 mangolds ; the object being to keep the land 

 between the trees under tillage with profitable 

 crops requiring manure as long as possible, so 

 that when the trees are full grown they will be 

 supported by a matted system of fibrous roots 

 near the surface. 



Staking. — For the purpose of accurate spacing 

 and the benefit newly-planted trees derive from 

 being su])ported against swaying with the wind 

 till they become established, it is advisable that 

 the stakes to which the trees are to be supported 

 should be in ])osition and driven before the 

 l)lanting begins. Such supi)ort for the fir.st two 

 or three years, especially in o])en i)ositions. 

 ]jroniotes the development of a better root 

 system from the stem near the surface than when 

 allowed to be swayed by wind, and it also 

 ensures an upright stem on which to develo]) an 

 evenly balanced tree. 



Planting. — Trees arriving from a distance in 

 open wekther should be immediately unpacked 

 in .some shady place. Any shortening of injured 

 roots or strong roots with a downward tendency 

 shoiild be done with a shar]» knife or secateur. 

 The pruning of the roots should be done as soon 

 as possible after the trees arrive, as the healing 

 of such wounds begins immediately, and if from 

 any cause the final iilanting is delayed, it is a 

 great advantage to have this healing process 

 going on. If the roots a]»pear dry the trees may 

 be dipped in a stream or iiond. or they may be 

 damped with a rose watering-]K)t. then liee! them 

 in firmly in .some fine, dam]) soil. Packages of 

 trees arriving while the ground is frozen hard 



should be placed unopened in some damp cellar 

 or outhouse, and covered with damj) litter till the 

 frost goes. In planting all kinds of fruit trees 

 and bushes it is of the utmost imi)ortance that 

 they should be planted the correct depth. Ojien 

 for each a circular hole a little wider than the 

 longe.st roots can extend to, and s]>read some fine 

 soil in the bottom of the hole. Place the tree 

 close to the .stake, if it requires such, then spread 

 out the roots evenly ; work in some fine soil 

 through and over the roots ; give the tree a few 

 jerks to pack the heel : add a little more soil, then 

 press or tramp firmly with the foot, and finish 

 by leaving tlie soil on the surface loose. When 

 planting is com])leted the tree should be on a 

 slightly raised ])osition, and tlie earth mark on 

 tlie stem indicating the de]>th the tree had 

 l)reviou.sly been ])lanted should be ju.st visible. 

 Winter Pruning. — The wood being .suffi- 

 ciently ripe, the pruning of all kind of fruit trees — 

 figs and ])eaches excepted, wliich should be left 

 over till spring — will now demand attention. 

 Early winter pruning of apples, pears, i^lums, 

 and gooseberries has the great advantage of 

 allowing time for the healing of wounds before 

 severe frost sets in, and increases the strength 

 of the terminal wood bud. Avoid pruning when 

 the wood is in a frozen condition. Pruning for 

 utility under variable conditions and on different 

 subjects presents many knotty problems, but it 

 is, on the whole, the most interesting part of the 

 development of trees for profit. Some justly 

 recognised theories that generally hold good in 

 dealing with trees grown under normal conditions 

 at the root are, when applied to those that have 

 been mismanaged from eitlier overfeeding or 

 .starvation, altogether wrong. The best guide to 

 the .successful pruning of any kind of fruit tree 

 lies in acquiring the knowledge of how nature 

 can be best assisted to attain a ])articular object 

 in view — first, in laying the foundation or frame- 

 work of a well-balanced tree. In the early stages 

 of the tree's growth hard cutting back, according 

 to the habit of the variety, may be necessary to 

 produce the desired number of brandies or arms. 

 Secondly, the development and preservation of 

 fruiting spurs on the main branches of such 

 varieties as form spurs on the main arms, l)y 

 keeping them thinly disposed so that light and 

 air may reach all parts of the tree. Strong- 

 growing sorts like Bramley and Newtown Wonder, 

 which form .spurs on the main arms, should have 

 the branches rather thinly dis])osed. Weak- 

 growing varieties and such as ]iro(hice the best 

 fruit on the point of the young shoots may have 

 the main branches a little closer. In shortening 

 the leading or main branches on young trees care 

 should always be taken to cut to a wood-bud 

 pointing in the direction the sub.sequent shoot is 

 desired to grow. Shorten all iui.s])laced or crossing 

 branches to one or two inches from the base to 

 forTu fruiting .s])urs. Shorten the leading branches 

 by so much as will ensure the development of 

 sufficient fruiting sjuirs. Varieties which fruit 

 on the end of young branches — for exaniple. 

 Irish Peach, I>ady Sudeley. HauTuann's Ped 

 Peinette, and the Croftons on the Paradise stock, 

 and, although in a less degree, Worcester Pear- 

 nuiin, Ecklinville and Bismarck — should be 

 freely thinned, and not so severely cut back, 

 excejjt when it is desired to have more or stronger 

 braiuhcs ]>roduced at a certain point. Pemove 

 all sickly or dying branches close to the flow of 

 healthy sap. Where branches have to be removed 



