4? 



IRISH GARDENING 



bark nearly to the depth the scion will reaeh, and 

 push it gently down till the shoulder rests on the 

 end of the stock. With strong scions and 

 pliable bark on the stock, make a chisel edge on 

 the back of the scion, ease the upper edge of the 

 bark with the knife, and push the scion gently 

 down to the shoulder, which should be about 

 two inches from the point of a strong scion. If 

 grafting wax is available, with it close the oi)ening 

 in the bark and round the scion on the end of the 

 stock. The scions should then be held in position 

 by winding some soft material roiuid the stock, 

 not too tight, but just tight enough to ensure that 

 the scions are resting against the stock. For 

 large stocks or arms the brown libre coir cord, 

 used for tying down thatch, is the most suitable. 

 This cord does not contract or expand with 

 changes of the weather, yields to the swelling 

 of the scions, and inay be left on till Avigust. 

 Small stocks with two or three grafts may be tied 

 witli raffia or bass matting. Success in grafting 

 depends largely on completely excluding the air 

 and preventing evaporation from the parts 

 where cohesion takes place. For this i)urpose 

 grafting wax is best, although good results may 

 be obtained with stiff waxy clay and cow or 

 horse droppings in about equal parts, well 

 worked together to the consistency of stiff putty, 

 and prepared a few days before it is wanted. 

 It shoidd be firmly pressed round and over the 

 end of the stock, letting it extend well below the 

 tying, then made smooth by dipping the hand in 

 water and rubbing it evenly, leaving it in the 

 shape of a cocoa-nut. After the grafts start into 

 growth they should be seciu'ed against breaking 

 by wind with stout stakes tied to the stock. 

 Strong growing sorts like Bramley should be 

 supported with stakes over the second growing- 

 season. Most of the spray growth which pushes 

 from the stock may be allowed to grow the lirst 

 summer for the purpose of maintaining a good 

 root action in the stock till autumn, when it may 

 be all cleared off, and the grafts being well 

 established will utilise all the sap the following 

 season. Other methods of grafting, such as 

 whip or whip-and-tongue, are more suitable for 

 small or nursery stocks. 



The Vegetable Garden. 



By Arthur IIorton, Gardener to Colonel Claude 



Cane, St. Wolstan's, Celbridge. 

 Potatoes. — Any time during the early part of 

 this month a few ]Jotatoes may be ])lanted out- 

 side. A sheltered part of the garden should be 

 selected if possible. If the ground has already 

 been manured and dug a large piece can be planted 

 in a very short time. For early i)lanting I ]jrefer 

 planting on the flat to the usual method of drilling 

 and moulding u]) as the work proceeds, as the 

 earthing up can be done gradually, therefore the 

 young growths will be protected from cutting 

 winds or late frosts. The distance to j)lant must 

 be determined by the variety grown; from 15 

 inches to 18 inches between the sets and 2 feet to 

 2 feet inches between the rows will suit most 

 varieties. Medium sized sets are the best; leave 

 only two or three of the strongest sprouts. When 

 large tubers are used they should be cut, and dip 

 the cut portion in fresh lime some time ])revious 

 to planting. On very heavy or clay soils it is 

 almost imi)ossible to produce potatoes of good 

 quality unless special measures are taken, and 

 where only a few for early supplies are required 



a good i)lan is to take out a trench or opening and 

 place about 'S inches of well decayed leaf-mould in 

 the bottom, then plant the sets on top and cover 

 with^about^the same thickness of leaf-mould, and 

 liuish olf with tiie ordinary soil well broken up. 

 Of course this entails extra work, but it is well 

 worth it, as tubers of the finest quality can be 

 produced either for table or exhibition. For this 

 planting it is advisable to have some protecting 

 material at hand in case of frost after the young 

 growths are through the ground ; branches of 

 sprvice, yew or laurel will be found suitable, and 

 can be placed in position very ciuickly. The 

 main cro^) should not be put in until after the 

 middle of March, especially if the sprouts are in a 

 forward condition. 



Seed Sowing. — Many kinds of seeds should be 

 sown during this month, but owing to the uncer- 

 tainty of the weather it is not advisable to depend 

 too much on one sowing, rather sow little and often. 

 If an early border is available a small sowing may 

 be made of early Horn carrots, turnips, lettuce, 

 spinach and parsley. 



Peas sown in boxes last month should be 

 placed in a light and airy position. No oppor- 

 tunity should be lost in making successional 

 sowings outside. If the weather is unfavourable 

 a few more may be sown in boxes. This vegetable 

 being lirst favourite with the majority of people, 

 no pains should be spared to keep up a continuous 

 supply. A common mistake made is in the 

 growing of far too many varieties. Most 

 gardeners know that a certain kind may do 

 exceptionally well in one garden, yet in another, 

 even quite near at hand, it is quite the reverse. 

 Therefore it is best to find out by experience 

 three or four which can be relied on and grow 

 more of the one variety successionally. 



Broad Beans. — The groimd for this crop 

 should be deeply trenched and well manured. 

 Sow in double lines 3 feet apart and about 9 

 inches between the plants. The long pod 

 varieties are the best for early use, while the 

 Windsor are preferable for later .supplies. 



Celery. — The sewing for the main crop of this 

 should be made about the first or second week in 

 March in pans or boxes and placed in a gentle 

 bottom heat. When the seedlings are large 

 enough to handle, prick off into boxes or frames 

 three or four inches apart in a light compost; 

 syringe daily and shade from bright sunshine 

 until the plants are well established. At no 

 period from the time of sowing to earthing-up 

 should the plants be allowed to suffer for the 

 want of water, or a large percentage will run to 

 seed. 



Onions. — If not already done no time should 

 be lost in planting out autumn sown onions from 

 the seed bed. Lift the strongest plants carefully 

 and {)lant with a trowel in lines 1 foot apart and 

 () inches between the plants, give a good dusting 

 of soot, and hoe between the lines on all f avoiu'able 

 occasions. It is not advisable to make too large 

 a planting, as they are not such good keepers as 

 onions sown in the si)ring. Onions sown in boxes 

 in .January must be kei)t in a light ])osition and 

 gradually hardened oft", ready for planting out 

 next month. 



Lights should be taken off cauliflowers 

 wintered in cold frames on every favourable 

 occasion to ensure stvu'dy plants at the time of 

 transplanting, which can be safely done by the 

 end of March or beginning of April, according to 

 weather conditions. 



