November i, 1901.] 



THE INDIA RUBBER WORLD 



51 



A REVOLUTION IN THE MANUFACTURE OF RUBBER FOOTWEAR. 



FOR several months obscure rumors have floated 

 about the rubber shoe trade relative to a new 

 method of manufacture. In spite of the fact that 

 these rumors were persistent, no one seemed to be able to 

 gain explicit information. Indeed, it is probable that most 

 hearers dismissed them as of no value. That they had 

 a good foundation, indeed, that an absolute revolution in 

 the manufacture of rubber footwear has been accomplished 

 is the fact. 



To begin at the beginning of the story, one should re- 

 view several years, that were filled with experiment and 

 investigation on lines wholly original, and that from 

 the first gave great promise. Not to follow the work 

 of those years in detail, it is enough to say that, less than 

 a twelve month ago, the first machine for making and vul- 

 canizing a stockinet lined rubber shoe was constructed. 

 To day, both machine and process are perfected, and turn- 

 ing out a product that noted shoe experts, American and 

 foreign, after the most critical examination and investiga- 

 tion, pronounce unrivalled in style, finish, and durability. 



In order to understand clearly what the new process 

 accomplishes, it is well to glance at the methods by which 

 rubber footwear is now made, as well as at the finished 

 product. Beginning backward, the standard product to- 

 day is far from satisfactory. In the words of one rubber 

 expert : " The best rubber shoe as made to-day is a pasted, 

 uncouth abortion, its lines hardly twice alike, its surface 

 covered with an oilcloth varnish, and nearly every process 

 of its manufacture marked by the clumsy methods of the 

 middle ages." This is severe, and at first blush seems 

 hardly fair to those who have worked so hard to perfect 

 their product in the old way. But it is true. There has 

 been progress in style, and in the production of lighter 

 and trimmer goods, but that is about all. With a gum 

 like India-rubber that lends itself to any shaping and to 

 any finish, the shoe to-day is far from perfect. To be 

 sure, the writer did not see this clearly until this shoe was 

 shown him, and he begs his readers to wait until they 

 themselves see it, before doubting his judgment in the 

 matter. 



Reviewing then the present process of manufacture, it 

 will be admitted that the washing, drying, and mixing, as 

 they are done to day, may be improved, but are not likely 

 to be done away with or revolutionized So far so good. 

 But the sheet, upper, soling and friction calenders offer a 

 field for economy, the vulnerable points being the upper 

 and soleing calenders. The cutting room with its racks, 

 its hand work, its great spaces and its booking, is another 

 weak spot. Then the making-up rooms, the costly equip- 

 ment of tables, racks, cars, and tracks, and the end- 

 less hand work have long vexed the soul of the manufac- 

 turer. So too with the use of cement — no other part of 

 the rubber industry, but would consider it a burden and a 

 waste. Then comes the vexed question of wooden lasts 



and boot trees, one of the most costly items, ever shrink- 

 ing, burning, chipping, and upsetting patterns, until exact 

 sizes are an impossibility. Nor is this all — for the linseed 

 oil varnish is but a delusion and a snare. And last comes 

 the long dry heat, injuring the fine lines of the "stitcher" 

 and the expert worker, tying up cart loads of lasts, 

 demanding far too much room, too much heat, and for- 

 ever an unknown ciuantity when it comes to exact regu- 

 lation. 



One of the first requisites in a trade revolution is the 

 cheapening of the cost of manufacture. Estimated con- 

 servatively, by this process, a shoe can be made at 40 per 

 cent, less cost than the same type of shoe made by the pres- 

 ent process. Incidentally, it may be well to mention here 

 that the new shoe put on the market by the side of the 

 best of today's product, will sell for 20 per cent, more, 

 this being the estimate of one of the largest jobbers in the 

 United States. 



A second consideration is the initial mechanical equip- 

 ment, which is cut down more than one- half, while the 

 floor space required is cut down 80 per cent. 



A third and most important point, relates to the quality 

 of stock needed to turn out a perfect shoe. Exhaustive 

 tests have demonstrated that, under this process, a much 

 cheaper compound can be used and give a better product, 

 both for finish and for wear, than is possible by using the 

 seven hour dry heat. 



Again, taking shoes of a given size and style, there will 

 be absolutely no variation if millions of pairs are made 

 from the very simple model that the machine calls for. Still 

 further, one man can complete a finished, vulcanized, shoe 

 a minute, and do it day in and day out. And lastly, any 

 type of footwear, from the lightest ladies' goods to lum- 

 bermen's overs, arctics, and boots, can be turned out with 

 facility and almost absolute freedom from " seconds " or 

 faults. 



The machine, which is so small that the operator can 

 reach any part of it from his post, is a marvel of compact- 

 ness and effectiveness. It lines the shoe with any material 

 with perfect smoothness, and the most delicate fabric on 

 the inside or outside, is neither weakened, stained, nor 

 marred by any part of the process. It also opens a broad 

 field for new and artistic designs never before possible. 

 The finished shoe is not varnished at all, but comes out 

 of the machine jet black, as smooth as glass, and with a 

 permanent surface polish. 



The machines and processes, by the way, are completely 

 covered by patents in the United States and foreign coun- 

 ies, and eminent patent attorneys have pronounced them 

 to be unassailable. A company has been organized with a 

 capital of ten million dollars to manufacture rubber boots 

 and shoes under these patents and processes controlled by 

 Mr. Joseph O. Stokes, a well known and successful man- 

 ufacturer of general mechanical rubber goods. 



