260 



THE INDIA RUBBER WORLD 



[May 1, 1911. 



An Avenue of Cocoani-t Palms. 



Dutch Xecro Homes, Outskirts of Paramaribo. 



On the return journey our car, placed at the rear of the train, 

 having a broad covered rear platform, made an ideal observa- 

 tion car. There were two flat cars in front of us, and from time 

 to time we picked up hand cars and their crews. It was very 

 interesting to see a crew of these negroes pick up a hand car and, 

 holding it chest high, discuss for five or six minutes the best 

 place to put it, and any other points that occurred to them as 

 important at that moment of relaxation ! 



We got a surprise at Kwakoegro when the train stopped out- 

 side of the station and a police official invited us to accompany 

 him to the searching rooms. It seems there is a government tax 

 of about 54 of 1 per cent, assessed upon gold, and people coming 

 from the gold fields are searched. I do not know what they did to 

 the others, but the searcher simply patted my breast pockets, 

 grinned with great amiability, and said, "A' right," and bowed me 

 out In the case of the natives, however, the search is very rigid 

 and needs to be, for the negroes conceal gold wherever they can, 

 their kinky hair being a favorite hiding place. The negro women 

 often dress their hair with a gummy substance that makes it 

 very nearly impenetrable. When this happens the searchers 



Placer Mining, Suriname Gold Fields. 



know that there is gold inside and they patiently work away at 

 the kinky head and wash the gold out. 



Night fell, but with a clear track and no more stops we rushed 

 along the •ilrhite road, sometimes going 35 miles an hour! 

 As we entered town with clanking bell and whistle going every 

 minute, we found the streets crowded even more than they were 

 in the morning. A train never before had arrived there at night, 

 and the engine with its headlights and cars brightly illuminated 

 was a fascinating novelty and we were greeted by cheers. As 

 we drew into the station the superintendent met us and asked 

 how we enjoyed the journey, and although it was our special 

 that made the train late, he apologized for not bringing us in on 

 schedule time. 



It had not occurred to me that in Dutch Guiana we were close 

 to the penal settlement in French Guiana, and that Devils Island 

 was but a short distance away. A suggestion of this nearness 

 came about in this manner. 



I had seen some beautifully carved and ornamented calabashes 

 and sent word to the arti.st, a Frenchman, that I wanted some. 

 In due time he appeared with a great variety of carved cala- 

 bashes, a model of the guillotine, and 

 various knicknacks, such as convicts all 

 over the world are forever making and 

 selling. Then I knew that he was a fugi- 

 tive from the penal settlement in French 

 Guiana. It seems that some prisoners do 

 escape and make their way with incredi- 

 ble suffering through the bush to throw 

 themselves on the mercy of the Dutch. 

 To the lasting credit of the inhabitants of 

 Suriname be it said that these fleeing 

 prisoners are rarely returned unless they 

 prove themselves hopelessly criminal. In- 

 deed they are given employment and 

 medical attendance if required and a fresh 

 start in life. Nor do the French officials 

 protest, possibly because the escape is 

 rarely reported, and, so it is gossiped, the 

 prison officials still charge the home gov- 

 ernment tlic pittance that is supposed to 

 represent the prisoner's board and lodg- 



