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THE INDIA RUBBER WORLD 



Sei'Tkmiikr 1. 1921 



process is by no means confined to manufacturers of rubber foot- 

 wear, but presents advantages which should appeal very strongly 

 to all makers of shoes in which rubber has a place. 



A NEW TYPE OF SHOE 



The new type of footwear embodies to an extent hitherto un- 

 known in the rubber shoe trade the three desirable and im- 



GOODYEAR TURX SoLE WITHOUT HeEL 



portant features of a good shoe — style, comfort and durability. 

 Vulcanization other than in the preparation of the sole is entirely 

 eliminated, and, as the method of manufacturing and the equip- 

 ment used is exactly that employed in making high-grade and 

 comfortable leather turn shoes so much in demand at the present 

 time, the possibilities which the new process brings to the pro- 

 ducer of fabric shoes arc only just now being realized. 

 BASIC FEATURES 

 The basis upon which the whole success of the new method is 

 built is the construction of a turned shoe sole of the so-called 

 "fiber compound" or "composition rubber," which is molded with 

 a rib or shoulder and strongly reinforced to withhold the strain 

 of the sewing. A fabric pocket is provided for a steel shank 

 piece, which is inserted at the proper time to give permanent 

 form to the arch of the shoe. This method of preparing the turn 

 sole has been developed to the point where it has met every 

 requirement and stood every test that has been placed upon it. 

 It is made by the use of a special and ingenious set of molds 



Beginning of the Process, Insole Tacking and 



ASSE.MBLING iVl.\CHINES 



which have been perfected and can be obtained by those manu- 

 facturing this type of shoe. 



THE RUBBER TURN SOLE 



The sole is molded with or without a heel and, as will be 

 seen by the accompanying illustrations, is of such constructiun 

 that, with the inserted sock lining or slip sole in the completed 

 shoe, it does not in any way interfere with the comfort of the 

 wearer. 



In the preparation uf this turned sole, several operations are 

 combined. The making of the heel as an integral part of the 

 sole does away with all of the operations necessary in completing 

 this part of the shoe, and the forepart carries the separations or 

 indentations which usually appear on the upper surface of a 

 leather turn or welt shoe. 



TYPICAL FACTORY PLAN 



The system of machinery used at the present time has been so 

 thoroughly organized that the work passes with the greatest 

 rapidity from one operation to another up to the point of 



completion. The accompanying detailed plan shows the arrange- 

 ment of the various machines required in the making of this 

 shoe and the organization of the work, which has been the out- 

 come of long study and experiments. 



PLILLINC AND LASTING 

 The shoe upper is prepared in the regular way, the molded 

 sole being fastened on the last by machinery. Where the heel is 

 an integral part of the sole a recess last is used for first lasting 

 only. The fitted upper and the molded sole are assembled to- 

 gether on the lasts by means of the Rex assembling machine. 



GooDVEAR Turn Sole With Heel 



after which it then passes to the pulling-over machine, at which 

 point the shoe is pulled in the regular way by driving nine 

 tacks, so distributed that the complete toe and forepart of the 

 shoe is thoroughly pulled and lasted. In making shoes with 

 sewed seats, after placing a few anchor tacks in the side, fur- 

 ther lasting is unnecessary, as the operation of the Goodyear 

 turn sewing machine, which immediately follows the pulling and 

 lasting, draws the shoe upper securely and smoothly to the 

 last at all points. In instances where a superior type of shoe 

 is made and a nail seat is desired, the heel-seat lasting machine 

 may be used. 



UPPER SEWING AND HEEIL TURNING 



After the pulling and lasting operations mentioned above, the 

 shoe is ready for the Goodyear turn sewing machine and the 

 upper is fastened to the sole in the same mamier that it is in 

 factories where this fine class of leather footwear is made. The 

 upper is then trimmed and the last is withdrawn, and the shoe 

 goes to the Goodyear heel turning machine, which is a recently 

 perfected one. The turning operation on the heel heretofore 

 has required exceptional skill and long training on the part of 



PuLLiNC-OvER Machine and Goodyear Turn Shoe 

 Sewing Machine 



the operatives. This machine is now very successful in its 

 work and operators very readily become accustomed to it. 

 TURNING THE FOREPART 



After turning the heel, the forepart is turned by a Goodyear 

 forepart turning machine, which is also a new machine, in- 

 vented for this purpose, and does its work with a rapidity and 



