IRISH GARDENING 



atiiiospliere, just as much as dryness at the roots, 

 which is likely to engender green-fly or red spider, 

 and therefore the house where they are grown 

 should be ventilated, and a position found for the 

 plants where they can get a maximum amount of 

 light. 



Sti inula iits. — We have not found any plant to 

 respond quicker to a judii-ious use of stimulants 

 than these beautiful greenhouse annuals, but 

 whatever is given should be applied in a weak form. 

 It is better to stinuilate growth slowly and surely 

 rather than attempt to force plants into bloom by 

 administering an extra dose. We have seen most 

 disastrous results follow in cases where the over- 

 dose has thoughtlessly been given. Cow dung, 

 sheep droppings, or guano or Clay's Fertilizer 

 will improve tlie l)looin.<. whilst old soot steeped 

 in a tank of water will do uuich to enhance the 

 l)lants generally. 



Dealt with on these lines, Balsams will be found 

 pleasing additions to groups of plants for indoor 

 decoration, and anyone who will give them a trial 

 cannot help appreciating them. The pity of it 

 is that so many view plants — as we have said — 

 from their capability of prodiacing flowers for 

 cutting and close their eyes to their other good 

 qualities. That is the reason why in these days 

 they are a neglected race. 



W. LiNDERS Le.\. 



Hotbeds for Half-hardy Annuals. 



The amateur without a greenhouse often imagines 

 that he is unable to make a success of the culture 

 of the majority of half-hardy annuals such as 

 Amaranthus, Asters, Calceolarias, Celosias, annual 

 Dlanthi, Lobelias, Mimuhis, Nemesias, Phlox 

 Drummondii, Petiniias, Salpiglossis, Schizanthus, 

 Ver))enas, and Zinnias. While it is certainly 

 true that the majority of these can be better 

 grown if sown early and grown on in a green- 

 house before planting out, there is no reason why 

 their culture should be entirely neglected by the 

 man who has no greenhouse. 



Instead of making a start as is often done in 

 January or early February, the man without a 

 greenhouse delays sowing till early in March. 

 The first thing to do is to get together a quantity 

 of really hot fermenting strawy stable manure 

 (which can always be done by the man who is 

 determined to get some), and build this up into 

 a conical heap and allow it to get tliorouglily 

 heated up. After one or two turnings it is built 

 into a hotbed, a foot all round ))eing added to 

 the size of the frame which is to be used, and if 

 there is not sufficient manure alone to build a 

 bed from twelve to twenty-four inches high, one- 

 third part of leaves prefera))ly from oak trees 

 shoidd be added. 



This hotbed is quite ideal for the raising of 

 late sown half-liardy annuals of all kinds. Tlie 

 seed is preferably sown in small pans or pots, 

 care being taken not to sow too much of any one 

 sort; and these pans after ])eing lightly watered 

 are stood on a wooden staging a few inches above 

 the manure, unless extra quick germination is 

 desired, when they are pliniged in the manure 

 itself. 



When each seedling is large enough to handle 

 pricking off is done in largo sliallow boxes, ample 

 drainage being afforded, and tlie boxes so arranged 

 that one side can be taken out with no trouble. 



so as to make tiio removal of the plants from 

 the boxes easy. 



From three to six inches apart each way is a 

 good distance to allow when pricking off, according 

 to the nature of the subject, and care should be 

 taken to make each little plant very firm in the 

 new soil so that it c-an take root immediately, and 

 does not loll al)Out. 



The boxes are then stood directly on the 

 manure on the hotbed, and very rapid growth 

 results as the soil of the boxes is kept very warm 

 by the fermenting manure below. I have known 

 seeds sown in March as described to produce 

 sturdy stuff nearly six inches high, perfect for 

 permanent planting out, at the end of May, yet at 

 least two months less trouble to produce. 

 Hardening off is, of course, essential before any 

 planting out outside can be carried out. 



One important point must not be overlooked, 

 and that is the re-lining of the hotbed if its 

 heat .should for any reason decline. Properly made 

 l)eds should retain their heat for at least two 

 months, when a couple of good loads of manure 

 are used in building them, but hastily prepared 

 beds, or beds made of manure which is already 

 played out, are often uncertain and dangerous to 

 manage. A strict watch should always be kept 

 on the thermometer, and if the bed begins to 

 decline alarmingly as regards its heat, it should 

 ])e thoroughly well lined all round with fresh, well 

 turned fermenting manure. In a case where the 

 heat is completely lost the frame should be well 

 matted up at night, and another hotbed built as 

 speedily as possible for the boxes or pots to be 

 transferred to. 



E. T. Ellis. 



Easter Gardening. 



M.\NY amateurs who are at business at other 

 times use the whole or part of the .short holiday 

 at Easter to see to their garden. Perhaps a 

 jiote on what to do may be useful. 



Firstly it will be well to get all the annuals 

 sown out of doors, indeed the earlier in April 

 the seeds are sown the better. Good easily 

 grown annuals are CJarhia elegans. Candytuft, 

 I'yanus minor, Esrlisrholtzia californica, Godetia 

 double and single, Helichrysum (Everlasting), 

 Xemophilo insKjiiis, Nigella Miss Jekyll, Sun- 

 flowers, and Giant Sweet Peas. 



All vacant ground should be hoed well, fre- 

 quently during April, and the weeds raked off. 

 You will thus get " a good start on them." 



April (the earlier in the month the lietter) is 

 a good time to topdress roses with well-decayed 

 inainire. This may be covered up with a. little 

 soil if desired, and then it will not look un- 

 siglitly. The long shoots of climbing roses should 

 at the same time l)e carefully secured to their 

 poles, arches, or walls, if this has not been done 

 l)efore. 



Attention should be given to the frames at 

 this period. The plants should be gradually 

 hardened off to be ready for the borders iii late 

 May or the l)eginniiig of June. Tliere is usually 

 a great deficiency of frame room at this time, 

 so it may ))e well to say that Calceolarias in frames 

 may be transplanted into trenches or into much 

 rougher frames made of boards, old doors, .sods, 

 or any material that is available, and 

 covered during frost with hand-lights, mats, or 

 even branches and straw. E T E 



