38 



IRISH GARDENING 



duuble-foikod (l.ifmvatid) purts. Ppuios an- l.onn' 

 at tlie base of this iiuisioii. 



4. ri. :ithiui)icuin. tlnis named by Hooker, it; 

 callt'd l)y Boaiiv I'l. SftiniiKina. It is a small spocii-s 

 from Afrii-a. and wants a liot atmoBphere. Tiir 

 centripi'tal K-avos are not branched, and turn very 

 soon to a brown eolonr. The centrifufial leaves are 

 thick and ^'ross, and have strong veins. A variety 

 is i'/. uthioiticiiiii var. auiidlense. 



5. ri. Wilinnhii, a native of Java, with the centri- 

 petal leaves remaining iijjright atid very nnicli 

 branched as in liie case of 7'/. {inindr. The centri- 

 fugal leaves form long, hanging rami heat ions. 



6. ri. hifnnne is a very peculiar speeii'S. The 

 leaves are in all ways thicker and harder than in 

 the other species. Spores are here found on a little 

 kidney-shaped part at the base of the centrifugal 

 leaves. This spore-bearing part has the shape of 

 a shell or ear. Some authors have described this 

 species as I'l. cnronur'tum. 



7. ri. Veitrhii is descril)ed as of garden origin. 

 Of no distinct character, the leaves are hot much 

 branched, and are covered on the back with white, 

 hairy felt. 



8. ri. Willielmiinr l{eijiii;i is a very rare species, 

 and some authors think it a variety of PI. ijninde; 

 others, of Vl. Veitiliii. The centrifugal leaves hang 

 down, and sometimes are six feet long, wliile the 

 centripetal leaves are upright, wide, and nearly 

 three feet long (high), ^ear the first ramification 

 a part of the leaves is occupied with spores. 



Other species are I'l. niddagus cnriense, from 

 Madagascar; I'l. ondiuum, I'l. \Vanihv, I'l. T'a.s-.sei, 

 PL liiillei/i, PL Liberia, &c.; but, no doubt, some 

 of these may be considered as synonymous. 



The Basket Plant Season. 



Not infrequently, hanging baskets jjegin to show 

 signs of failure before the season is over, and this 

 is more especially notii-eable where no change has 

 been made in the occupants from the previous 

 year. As a general nde, it is a mistake to permit 

 plants in baskets to occupy them two years con- 

 secutively without overhauling them and replen- 

 ishing the soil. Limited room, lack of vitality 

 through no change of soil, and exposure to heat 

 and dryness are some of the contributory causes 

 why plants in baskets under a greenhouse roof are 

 not always the success they might be. What is the 

 remedy P It is this : to make a fresh start early in 

 the spring both with plants and soil. It is " the 

 only way " to ensure l>loom and Vjeauty with a 

 prodigality of f(jliage. 



Perhaps these lines may meet the eye of someone 

 who is confronted with a shortage of suitable plants 

 or what may be regarded as such. If so, I would 

 suggest that an inventory be taken of the stock at 

 once. To begin with, small Fuchsias only recently 

 struck, and not yet potted on ; Heliotropes left in 

 pans or striking pit. or tliiit batch of Ivy-leaved 

 Pelargoniums which are hardly considered big 

 enough for l)edding out, are the very subjects tliat 

 in a few short months will make the ba.skets masses 

 of loveliness, and lend an attraction to a house, 

 the window of a room, or portico. Without delay, 

 then, use any spare lja.skets you may have, re- 

 lining them with fresh moss, and fitting them witli 

 a compost of loam and leaf mould, making these 

 " ingredients " moderately firm. The young plants 

 can then be set, two, or possibly three, according 

 to size of basket, afterwards watering and allowing 

 the soil to settle. It may be found necessary to add 

 a little more compost. 



.\KTK.u-Tm;.\TMi;NT.— iSuspended from a greenhouse 

 roof, i)a.skets of plants like those mentioned are 

 tpiickly enveloped, and are not long before they 

 (•onnnence to show flower. As the shootB develop 

 they should be gently tied down to the sides of the 

 baskets, so that, seen from below, tin- identity of 

 the reiei)tacle will be hidden in foliage and 

 blossoms. 



Watkuino a.ni) Stimulati.nci. — When, after a few 

 wi-eks, the i)lants have lit'come estal)lished, it will 

 be beneficial to afford them weak stimulants occa- 

 sionally; this will maintain the l)lossoms in a state 

 of jjcrfection longer; but no stinndants ought to 

 be given until after ordinary watering. When it 

 is necessary to water — and obviously plants sus- 

 l)ended near to a greenhouse roof need a deal in 

 sunnuer — it is best to take the baskets down and 

 iuunerse them in tepid water, allowing them to 

 drain before suspending them. 



Other Suiuixts. — Besides the plants mentioned, 

 no one ought to overlook the trailing C'ami>anula8, 

 of which Is<ji>liulhi (l)lue) and /. allifi (white) are 

 most useful, as is al.so that very delightful showy 

 old gold miuuiius-like plant. Diplucus (jlutinoaus. 



W. JilNDEUS LkA. 



Violets. 



One sometimes meets with people who, although 

 interested in many plants that are valued for their 

 fragrant blossoms, show little, if any, concern for 

 the cultivation of Violets, and beyond perhaps 

 having a clump or two in some out-of-the-way 

 corner of their garden, w-hich are allowed to de- 

 generate, know scarcely anything of them. Yet 

 what flowers exhale a more delightful perfume 

 when grown for winter and early spring than the 

 " modest Violet " ? 



Making a Start. — To have blossoms of quality it 

 is necessary that a start should be made with 

 runners in April, and, as with Strawberries, so with 

 Violets, they should be selected from plants that 

 have done well, avoiding ruiuu'rs from plants 

 which in other respects may be strong and healthy. 

 A bed is best made up in an open quarter of the 

 garden. The soil ought to be deeply dug, and have 

 worked in good, fibrous loam, rotted dung and leaf 

 mould. This will require to be made firm. Liber- 

 ality in the matter of soil on the lines suggested is 

 worth all the trouble or expense involved. 

 Runners need to be dibbled in firmly, and 15 to 18 

 inches space should be the minimum. For the 

 summer, the north side of the garden, where the 

 ])lants can get the benefit of partial shade during 

 the day, will be found most suitable. If this is 

 not available, then a good plan is to make up a 

 bed between rows of Peas, for instance, which will 

 afford Violets just the necessary screen in a time 

 of heat and drought. 



Summer Theat.ment. — Copious supplies of water 

 should be given the plants in a dry time; this is 

 l)est afforded at night. Syringing the foliage w'ell 

 is also beneficial, as it helps to keep at bay red 

 spider. Stimulants, in the form of liquid manure, 

 that made from horse or cow droppings answering, 

 but it should be given in a w^eak form. Occasional 

 waterings with soot-water wall keep the plants in 

 a vigorous state. 



Removal to Fr.\mes. — Arrangements must be 

 made in September for winter quarters, and a cold 

 frame, having a south aspect, will be foimd the 

 best. My practice is to place a few inches of ashes 

 at the base of the frame before throwing in loam. 



