IRISH GARDEZsIING 



117 



Review, 

 Rose Gardening, 



This is another of the Home Garden series pul)- 

 lislied by Thornton & Butte rworth, and written by 

 Mary Hampden. The liook is full of first-rate,, 

 reliable information on Rose growing in all its 

 aspects, and as far as the practical recommenda- 

 tions go can be thoroughly recommended. We 

 lent it to a friend who ha.^'a considerable know- 

 ledge of gardening, including Rose growing, and 

 she gave it as her opinion that it is just the book 

 for an amateur or for any beginner. The instruc- 

 tions for all the operatinns connected with Rose 

 growing are given in clear, concise, readily under- 

 standable language, and nothing is omitted likely 

 to be of service to Rose growers. The text is ad- 

 mirably supplemented by copious illustrations and 

 line drawings, so that anyone can proceed to 

 prune, plant, or to make beds with a clear idea of 

 tlie correct way to set about it. One criticism we 

 would make, however, and that is against the very 

 complicated designs recommended for Rose beds. 

 A Rose bed, or bed for any other flowers, should be 

 of the very simplest outline, with as few curves 

 as possible, otherwise the labour of clipping and 

 maintaining the edge is enormous, not to men- 

 tion the loss of effect. A little more care in the 

 spelling of the names would add much to the 

 literary value of the work. 



Allotments. 



In some books dealing with Allotments the month, 

 of October is looked upon as the real beginning 

 of the Allotment year. At any rate, we know of 

 no better month for breaking up new plots, or 

 taking in hand any vacant or derelict ones. Most 

 land is usually in a fair condition for working at 

 this period of the year. A plot which has been 

 vacant during the past year will be overgrown 

 with weeds and rough herljage. Taken in hand 

 at present and deeply dug, and then given a dress- 

 ing of lime, ihe winter will luring it into condition 

 again for cultivation in the spring. 



Lime. — Where it is iniended to lime Plots pre- 

 parations should be made during this month to 

 obtain supplies, as Noveml)er is the time for put- 

 ting on lime. On most plots there is abundant 

 evidence that the need is great. So far as plots 

 are concerned the problem could be better taken 

 in hand by co-operative methods, and is properly 

 one for the Allotments Association. They could 

 also determine the best value per ton for ordinary 

 lime, ground lime and ground limestone. At the 

 same time it should be said the need for lime 

 depends on the crop. Some crops, like Potatoes 

 and Rhubarb will grow better without a direct 

 application of lime than with it; the Cabbage tribe, 

 Swedes, etc., are usually the first to suffer from 

 shortage of lime, and they show the effect l)y the 

 well-known " finger and toe " or "club-root." On 

 the other hand, an application of lime immediately 

 before the Potato crop is conducive to seal). Apart, 

 however, from the effect lime has on pests and 

 disease, it has an important mechanical effect on 

 heavy soils. Clay soils have for the most of this 

 season been like bricks, and with rain in the 

 winter will be sticky and sodden. Lime makes 

 such a soil more friable, it dries more readily, 

 and is easier to cultivate. The question is often 

 asked — how are we to know if the .s>)il needs lime. 

 Tt may l)e taken for granted that if an allotment 

 has not had lime of recent years and has been 

 highly manuicd, a dressing of lime will be bene- 

 ficial. 



Gas lime should be applied in the autunui, en* 

 early winter, as soon as the crops are removed. 

 Really, evil-smelling gas lime is a potent insecti- 

 cide which can be used with considerable effect 

 on pest-ridden plots. It is, also, however, poison- 

 ous to crops, and the effect takes some time to wear 

 off, although it disappears in the course of a few 

 weeks. 



Allotments with a good supply of root crops are 

 in a fortunate position, and it is found if some of 

 the roots are lifted and stored they keep .better. 

 Turnips, which are full-grown, can be lifted and 

 stored in a similar manner to Potatoes. Beet 

 becomes coarse when left in the groinid, and when 

 the roots are large enough for use they should be 

 lifted. Everyone knows, of course, the roots should 

 he lifted carefully and not broken. It is also much 

 safer to twist the tops off in preference to cutting 

 them. The roots may then be placed in layers 

 with the tops towards the outside of the heap, and 

 covered over with sandy soil to exclude frost and 

 to keep the roots moist. Carrots may be stored 

 in a similar manner, except in this case the tops 

 may be cut off, if desired, quite close with a knife. 

 Parsnips and Jerusalem Artichokes are perfectly 

 hardy, and do not require to be lifted as the roots 

 have a much better flavour when left in the ground. 



General Work.— Seedling CauhHow^ers are safer 

 in frames during the winter. The soil should not 

 be rich or the plants will become too vigorous and 

 large before the planting out time arrives. Prick 

 them out three or foiu- inches apart, and only place 

 the lights on in wet or frosty weather. Onions in 

 the store should be examined and decaying bulbs 

 removed, as a few^ will show signs of decay im- 

 mediately after harvesting. Seedling autumn-sown 

 (Jnions in .beds are now large enough to be hoed 

 if sown in drills, but, in any case, all weeds should 

 be removed. Parsley, which with us was not look- 

 ing at all well this year, has now made vigorous 

 growth. The larger and softer leaves may now be 

 removed, leaving the more sLocky leaves to with- 

 stand the winter. If the autumn-sown Cabbages 

 have not yet been planted out this should be done 

 soon now. The ground lately occupied by Potatoes 

 will do well if it is forked and levelled over and 

 then trodden down. During September the tops 

 of late varieties of Potatoes, such as Shamrock and 

 Skerry were perfectly green, especially where the 

 crops had been sprayed, but no advantage will 

 be gained now by leaving these crops in the 

 ground, and they should be lifted and stored as 

 suggested in these notes last month. Late crops 

 o'f Leeks and Celery may now be finally earthed 

 up. when the soil is dry. 



The Flower Border.— We have found that in 

 the North it is not safe to leave outdoors, during 

 the winter, the better kinds of early-flowering 

 Chrysanthenunns. After flowering we cut the 

 plants down, and place the roots in boxes of sandy 

 .soil, and keep them in cold frames during the 

 winter. In the s])ring the roots are divided and 

 re-planted. Dahlia roots keep quite well during 

 the winter in a frost-proof shed; the roots should 

 be covered with dry leaves or rough leaf-mould. 

 Before the Geraniums are cut with frost, the plants 

 should be lifted and potted up, and brought in- 

 doors. The beds may then be filled with Wall- 

 flowers, Forget-m(>-nots and Polyanthus, which if 

 done in good time gives these plants an oppor- 

 tunity of l)econiing established before the winter. 

 ,\t a verv small cost, indeed, one may enjov the 

 beauty of bulbs in the spring. A few Daffodils, 

 Crocus, etc., planted now require no further atten- 

 tion. G. H. Oliver. 



