IRISH GARDENING 



l^ossibly a cross with S. coclileari.s ; it is well 

 worth growing, as is also another hybrid form 

 sent out as S. calabrica. 8. cochlearis, with 

 large rosettes of blue-silver spoon-shaped 

 leaves and pure white flowers on red steins, is 

 equally desirable. It has a smaller form which 

 masquerades as S. csesia major and S. Probj^ni 

 and a tiny form usually (wrongly) sent out as 

 S. valdensis. tS. cochlearis prefers a sunnj^ 

 situation, and with me does not flower until it 

 has made a good sized tuft. 8. Cotyledon is 

 another splendid species with large rosettes of 

 broad, rounded leaves and immense sprays of 

 flowers either pure white or crimson spotted. 

 The centre rosette in the type dies after flowering, 

 but in the form var. altissima it does not. Var. 

 icelandica has enormous strap-like leaves and 

 even larger sprays of flowers. This form is not 

 a good doer everywhere, and to flower it freely 

 it is necessary to detach the side shoots — 

 which may be grown on by themselves — and 

 to leave only the one big rosette, which then 

 usually flowers. S. longifolia is the last of the 

 great Aizoon clan ; nothing to my mind can 

 equal the beauty of its marvellous rosettes, and 

 it is a bitter disappointment to one when its centre 

 shows signs of a flower shoot, for the type makes 

 no offsets, and dies after flowering. All these 

 Aizoon Saxifrages cross readily, and some very 

 fine hj^brids have been obtained from them. 

 The true S. Macnabiana (Cotyledon X Hostii), 

 with white flowers and very dark crimson spots 

 (avoid the substitute of commerce which has 

 pale spots), 8. Dr. Ramsay, and longifolia x 

 cochlearis and longifolia x crustata are all 

 well worth growing. 8. mutata is classed with 

 the Aizoons, it makes a rosette of dull green 

 leaves like 8. Cotyledon, and bears small orange 

 flowers, and is usually a biennial : I do not 

 think it worth growing ; it likes a cool, 

 moist place. 8. Burnati is a cochlearis hybrid 

 of great merit. There are, as I have said, 

 Inuulreds of other forms, but 1 think I have 

 mentioned all which are of sufficient merit or 

 sufficiently distinct for the jiurpose of the present 

 article, 



[To be 'continued.) 



Lilium auratum Seeding. 



Mr. ri. X. Smith, Daisy I] ill, Newry, writes : — 

 •' I have secured several pods of seed of Lilivim 

 auratum, and liope that some of the seeds may 

 jirove fertile. I do not know of an instance of 

 this ])lant seeding before. Have you ever heard 

 of one ? (Readers please note.) Buddleia auri- 

 (nilata is now in full flower in Warrenpoint 

 Puhlic Park, colour creamy-white and deliciously 

 fragrant." 



Planting Fruit Trees. 



Large munbors of these are now being or abov^t 

 to be planted, and it is impossible to exaggerate 

 the iu\])ortance of attending with the greatest 

 care to the details of planting- 



As regards soil, when the natural soil is very 

 poor, some better garden soil may be used for 

 shaking in amongst the roots when planting, as 

 this helps to give the tree a good start. Xo 

 manure should be used under the ground, but a 

 thin layer over the surface when planting is 

 completed will prove beneficial. 



For each tree a circular or square hole, about 

 3 feet wide, should be opened, and all the soil 

 broken up to a depth of 18 inches, without bring- 

 ing the bottom spit to the top. 



Trees niust never be allowed to lie about, even 

 for a short ])eriod, with the roots exposed. On 

 arrival from the nursery the roots should be well 

 covered up with soil in .some convenient spot 

 from which they should be taken one by one 

 when ready to plant. Rather than plant in wet 

 sticky weather, it is better to leave the trees thus 

 " heeled in " for a week or two, choosing a 

 suitable day for planting. But get the trees 

 along from the nursery so that they may be at 

 hand, " heeled in," when a good day couies. 



Before planting, all roots growing straight 

 downwards should be shortened back, and any 

 jagged or torn roots should have the injured 

 portions cut off cleanly with a sharp knife. 



C^ramming the roots in a hole, filling in with earth 

 and stamping it down is bound to result in 

 failure. Holes must therefore be made as 

 described above, and each tree must be placed 

 at such a depth that when the planting is com- 

 pleted it will be at the same depth as it was in 

 the nursery. This will readily be seen by the 

 earth mark on the stem. Another guide is that, 

 when finished, the highest up-roots should be 

 3 or 4 inches below the surface. Xot to plant too 

 deej)ly is vital, especially in heavy or wet land. 



Xo" roots should be allowed to take a directly 

 downward direction, but every root, even the 

 smallest fibre, should be spread out, slanting very 

 slightly downwards. First spread out the lowest 

 roots and scatter fine soil over them, i)roceeding 

 similarly with the higher roots in rotation, and 

 give the tree a little shake now and then to let 

 the soil in between the fine roots. Having thufs 

 spread out and covered all the roots, give the 

 tree a vigorous shake, add a little more soil and 

 tread firm, while it it is very important not to 

 leave the soil loose about the stem and roots, it 

 must only be trod firm, not rammed. Tlien fill 

 up the hole a little higher than the surrounding 

 surface to allow for sinkage ; 2 or 3 inches higher 

 is essential, or a hollow will occur for stagnant 

 water to fill. 



A stout stake should be placed to each tree to 

 l»revent straining of the roots by the wind, but 

 great care must be taken that the tree is secured 

 in such a wav that it will not chafe against the 

 stake in windy weather, otherwise it would be 

 better to have no .stake at all. 



Grass sods must not be laid over the roots of 

 newly planted trees, but the ground should be 

 kept"free of weeds and the surface stirred lightly 

 at intervals for a couple of years, say 2 or 3 

 inches deeji. to admit sun and air. — J. M. W. 



