July i, 1904.] 



THE INDIA RUBBER WORLD 



355 



3. Between the one and the other a solution lacking the 

 necessary toughness is used or one which did not properly 

 vulcanize. 



A too small quantity of hard rubber will often be reduced to 

 powder, or break into fragments after the machine has been 

 used a comparatively short time only. How can it be possible 

 that melted rubber after cooling adheres so tightly to the iron 

 as is necessary in wringer rolls? Here the word "warehouse 

 quality " occurs to me. 



No matter how exactly cylindrical a roll cover has been 

 ground, if it is attached according to the " new method " it is 

 very questionable if it remains exactly cylindrical. I imagine 

 that its surface will become wavy longitudinally. And how 

 about the length of the so forced on stocks? Does such an ex- 

 pert workman exist who can cut a roll cover so exact as to have 

 after attachment, the same length as the axle? In most in- 

 stances it will be either too long or too short. Also in regard 

 to the perfectness of the outer diameter these roll covers will 

 lack much that is desired. Of course for use it does not matter 

 much whether the diameter of a roll is a little larger or smaller, 

 but what does the dealer say if the diameter is not uniform ? 



A really cheap method to cover wringer rolls would be the 

 following: The roughened axle is painted with a solution of 

 hard rubber and after this is well dried a sheet of hard rubber 

 compound, possessing the exact required strength, is placed 

 around it. The seam is pressed together, not overlapping the 

 ends. On the tubing machine a tube of soft rubber is then 

 drawn, having a slightly smaller inner diameter than the outer 

 diameter of the hard rubber covered axle. One end of the 

 tube, which is a trifle longer than the length of the roll wanted, 

 is cut off, warmed a little, and pushed over the hard rubber. 

 This warming is not absolutely necessary. Then, with a board 

 the tube is rolled from the center towards the ends several 

 times, firming it, and cut off to proper length, both ends sup- 

 plied with a disk, wrapped up and vulcanized. After vulcaniza- 

 tion the roll is ground, cut off to proper length, and the ends of 

 the axle are cleaned. 



In the German market many inferior qualities of this article 

 can already be found, and it is therefore very undesirable that 

 additional factory methods of questionable character should 

 be admitted. At all events manufacturers will always be thank- 

 ful for any hints on really cheaper factory methods of merit. 



A. W. H. 



WOMAN'S RAINY-DAY APPAREL. 



RAINY days no longer hurt the vanity of women. The 

 evolution of the waterproof coat from a hideous gar- 

 ment to a beautiful one has been accomplished. It was only a 

 few years ago that women were forced, through a stupid idea 

 of what should constitute rainy weather apparel, to abandon all 

 thought of a smart appearance when they went forth on a 

 stormy day. Beauty and comfort are now so carefully consid- 

 ered in every item of the rainy-day wardrobe that a woman 

 should appear at her best from hat to shoes and be delightfully 

 comfortable when the rain clouds spread overhead. 



Cravenette cloth, in heavy and light weights, is the unrivalled 

 material for rain coats. It is impervious to dampness, soft, and 

 pleasant to touch, hangs in good lines, and comes in the great- 

 est variety of colors, shades, and fancy mixed weaves. 



The cravenette coats come in full or three-quarters length. 

 The full length is the more generally serviceable and becoming, 

 as it covers a gown completely and emphasizes slenderness of 

 form. The backs of these coats are box shaped, full or fitted. 

 The fronts hang straight. Loose belts girdle most of the mod- 



els. Sleeves have an easy fulness and are decidedly puffed over 

 cuffs that appear in all possible variations of the fundamental 

 narrow, loose cuff. 



Many of the coats have slit openings in the front near the but- 

 ton lines for the hands to slip through. The double-breasted 

 finish predominates, and among the most fetching buttons are 

 those of cravenette trimmed with steel or brass. The pockets 

 have buttoned-over flaps. 



The collars are, as a rule, small, flat velvet turn-overs. Short 

 capes, single, double or triple, form the shoulder finish of the 

 majority of the coats, the triple capes leading in popularity. 



No fixed rule governs the matter of linings. A coat may be 

 lined throughout with silk or satin, or have lining in thesleeves 

 only, or in the sleeves and body of the coat as far as the waist. 

 They are substitutes for silk lining, these partially lined coats. 



One finds extremes of simplicity and elegance in cravenette 

 coats. Side by side with a dark gray of severest finish hangs a 

 light red, long coat, satin-lined throughout, with triple cape 

 turn-over collar of white cloth braided in red, and cravenette 

 buttons trimmed with steel, that is quite as much intended for 

 rain as the quiet gray model. 



The cravenette coat serves the double duty of rain coat and 

 fair weather ulster. This cannot be said of the silk rubber and 

 satin rubber coats, for they are strictly waterproofs with their 

 imperceptible inside finish of rubber. Though not generally 

 useful they are extremely popular as waterproofs and are charm- 

 ingly dainty and pretty. 



A silvery gray silk model has a triple cape piped with white 

 satin, white satin cuffs and high flaring collar. Another gray 

 silk is belted with a pointed girdle richly beaded in steel. One 

 of navy blue silk rubber has a red satin collar and cuffs and 

 shiny brass buttons. 



A box coat of creamy white satin-rubber is trimmed with a 

 scarlet velvet collar and brass buttons. " When is such a coat 

 worn ?" " Yachting," comes the answer from distracted sales- 

 women who have to answer many such questions concerning 

 these delightfully audacious coats, which come in plain and 

 quiet styles as well as in those of a more showy order. 



Cravenette leads among materials adaptable for short skirted 

 suits; but English cheviot, Scotch cheviot, all the materials 

 used in men's walking suits, give a bewildering opportunity for 

 choice to the woman who wishes her walking suit to be one to 

 brave the elements. The weave of the cloth should be close 

 and tight, the surface smooth rather than rough. 



The skirt of a rainy-day suit should be shorter than that of 

 the ordinary pedestrian costume, for the so-called short skirt of 

 the season's walking suit touches the ground at the back at 

 every step. " Five inches from the ground is the only actually 

 rational rain skirt," says one of New York's most fashionable 

 tailors, but, of course, there are women who will not wear so 

 radical a departure from the conventional skirt and three inches 

 from the ground is the compromise length. A leather binding 

 is favored by English tailors for the rain skirt, but it is hardly 

 necessary as a rule when the costume is made of strictly rain- 

 proof cloth. — New York Sun. 



The factory director of the Gummi- und Kabelwerke Josef 

 Reithoffer's Sonne (Vienna), Herr Josef Kunz, celebrated re- 

 cently the fiftieth anniversary of his connection with the firm, 

 which dates from 1832. On this occasion a representative of 

 the chamber of commerce decorated him with a gold cross of 

 merit. At the same time two foremen and three female em- 

 ployes, each of whom had been with the concern for 25 years 

 or more, were decorated with the bronze medal of the trade 

 union. 



